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Messages - Leevibe

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Open Discussion / Re: Spyder PS questions
« on: February 11, 2014, 10:45:19 PM »
Well I would think that it would get rid of it because it's not an actual ground loop. They are grounded commonly through the pedals, but to complete the loop you would need to ground the two dc jacks together? So I think you have ground 'U's maybe which seem perfectly fine and how all isolate powers work. Also awesome job, I really need to make something like this, although it seems a little intimidating.

That's exactly what's happening. If you think about it, it will dawn on you that when you connect the signal sleeves of two effects you are simultaneously tying the grounds of the power jacks.

And you can totally do it!  It looks like a complex build but its just the same simple circuit repeated over and over.  I added some bells and whistles but you wouldnt have to do that. 

Open Discussion / Re: Spyder PS questions
« on: February 11, 2014, 10:14:08 PM »
Thanks for the reply, jimijam.  I appreciate it.  I understand that the idea is to eliminate ground loops.  The thing that I didn't foresee is that the grounds of all those nicely isolated taps get tied right back together as soon as you interconnect pedals with instrument cable because signal ground is tied to power ground. 

If I touch my DMM leads to two different regulators in my isolated supply, there is no continuity, even if I have them powering pedals.  If I then interconnect those pedals with a patch cable, there is continuity between the grounds of the regulators.  This happens via the sleeve connection of the patch cable.  How does this eliminate ground loops?

Open Discussion / Re: Spyder PS questions
« on: February 11, 2014, 10:07:23 AM »
Hope it's ok to bump this thread.

I have a perfectly good 1 Spot that I've never had issues with.  I'm afraid I may have wasted a bunch of time building a neato box that adds a lot of weight to my board. 

What am I missing on the ground loop/isolation thing?

Open Discussion / Re: Confessions thread
« on: February 11, 2014, 10:03:36 AM »
1) I like to watch "Anne of Green Gables"

2) I left my iron on all night last night

Open Discussion / Re: ...and why not...! NGD!
« on: February 09, 2014, 05:44:24 PM »
Don't change it. It's perfect!

Open Discussion / Re: Spyder PS questions
« on: February 09, 2014, 03:09:25 PM »
I unfortunately can not help with your question as I have never made a PSU before, but I had to tell you that thing looks awesome. You did a great job. Hope you get your questions answered.


Thanks for the vote of confidence, Cody. It's a bit scary posting pics of all that spaghetti given the amazing gut shots I've seen on this forum. 

Open Discussion / Spyder PS questions
« on: February 09, 2014, 12:05:29 PM »
I recently built RG Keen's Spyder power supply using the Weber 120vac pedal transformer.  Aside from some heat-sinking stuff to work out, I'm really happy with the way it turned out.  All 9v taps are measuring at between 9.02 & 9.08 volts.  At 300mA each, it's loads of power. 

My first question has to do with isolation.  With my DMM, it's simple to verify that each filter/regulator circuit is completely isolated UNTIL I interconnect effects with instrument cables.  I hadn't really thought about it before, but as soon as pedals share a common ground connection through the signal cable, their power grounds also have continuity.  Again, this is easily proven by touching the metal tabs on the regulators with my DMM probes.  With this being the case, what advantage do I have in having isolated power?  I'm no longer isolated.  I know there's something I'm missing, but I can't wrap my brain around it.

My second question has to do with fuses.  I'm using two separate fuses, one for the PS circuitry and one for the courtesy outlet.  Right now I have a .6 amp fuse on the PS and 2 amp on the outlet.  I just guessed at those values.  Any recommendations?


Spyder circuit:
Weber transformer:

Open Discussion / Re: NOPD
« on: February 08, 2014, 06:59:56 PM »
Wow!  Congratulations!!!

Open Discussion / Re: Greetings.....
« on: February 08, 2014, 06:57:37 PM »
Welcome to pedal building!  Sounds like you're off to a great start.  Builder error is far more common than bad parts.  Congrats on your successful builds.  Your confidence will grow with each one. 

When you get that first non-working circuit, check to make sure guitar is in input and amp in output, not vice-versa.  That's happened to me a bunch of times.  Make sure ICs are plugged in, guitar volume is up, amp is off standby.  If still not working, you can build a simple test probe and trace through the schematic.

Until then, keep up the perfect record!

Open Discussion / Re: Big score at a local electronics store.
« on: February 07, 2014, 07:00:28 PM »

Open Discussion / Re: how the heck do you guys organize all this stuff?
« on: February 06, 2014, 05:49:11 PM »
The 40 drawer cabinet is pretty typical HF low quality.  I find them entirely adequate for sorting duty though.

Open Discussion / Re: how the heck do you guys organize all this stuff?
« on: February 06, 2014, 05:06:13 PM »
Every drawer is labeled and transparent so it's easy to see what is/isn't inside. 

Open Discussion / Re: Know when its time to give up
« on: February 06, 2014, 12:02:35 PM »
I have a little "fail bin" but I will probably never resurrect those circuits because I end up picking them over for parts before I get back to them.  In that boneyard is a splitter blend and an optical compressor.

I used one from Frys one time also and found the slope to be to steep for my foot. I think DutchMF is on the right track and would love to see something fabbed for a series of classic fuzz' I am working on.

Agreed.  A shallower slope would be nice.  Heavier gauge aluminum would be good too.  The one I used could have been much thicker and it still would have been plenty light and a little more stomp-worthy.  The surprising thing about sloped enclosures is the lack of useable space compared to the footprint. 

I just finished a rehouse of an Arion SAD-1 in a very similar case I bought at Fry's.  It was raw aluminum.  I painted the sides and wrapped the top with dollar store contact paper to get the look I wanted. 

To make it stomp worthy I had to add the reinforcing tube to hold the sides from collapsing out.  This was the smallest enclosure I could find that would fit the board. 

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