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Topics - dont-tase-me-bro

Pages: 1 [2]
16
Open Discussion / after getting DCA55, how to calculate bias resistors?
« on: September 07, 2014, 03:53:23 PM »
is there a document or old thread that exists on how to do this?  I saw this calculator below, but figured there was more information out there.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/biascalc/ffbias.html

I wanted to order a DCA55 and a bunch of germanium, but didn't know what is contained in Small Bear's magic wand.

Thanks,
Pat

17
Open Discussion / Gold mine?
« on: September 04, 2014, 09:18:05 PM »
Or not?  Throw a few old part numbers into the search

http://www.crystal-electronics.com/

18
Tech Help - Projects Page / Trimpots on the new Tonbender?
« on: August 05, 2014, 08:58:32 PM »
Greetings and salutations.  My noobery does not recognize such part numbers

Bourns 2262
Bourns 2263

a search on Mouser did not load trimpots, only future disappointing deliveries.  would the 3362P work, or am I missing something?

Thanks,
Pat

19
Tech Help - Projects Page / Electrolytic and ceramic caps at Mouser?
« on: July 27, 2014, 05:42:16 PM »
What do you guys get at Mouser for electrolytic and ceramic?  Trying to piece things together from existing threads and BOM's, but am coming up a bit short.  Their product attribute filters are great, but my noobery gets in the way.

I saw these Panasonic electrolytic, which I think are correct, but they don't cover the whole range.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=ece-a1ek

And then these Nichicon ones, which also seems correct, which cover a greater range.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=647-UVR1H


For picofarads, these are the TDK ones in the BOM thread.  Does anyone have a preferred ceramic disk, like the Small Bear ones?

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=FK28C0G1H


Thanks,
Pat

20
Requests / Anything with control voltage
« on: June 18, 2014, 09:25:08 PM »
I'm probably not the only one here with a piece of Moog gear. 

Aqua boy or zero point super deluxe with control voltage would be sweet.  Or stage fright phaser.  Fuzz pedal that can be manipulated by external waveforms.  Mutron, etc


21
I made the Cherry Bomb.  I have bypass and power, but no effect.  The LED lights up also.   I could not find a 200pf cap, so I just a 220pf silver mica. 

Transistors are as follows:

Q1 - BC184L
E - 1.03
B - 1.03
C - 1.68

Q2 - BC169B
E - 1.66
B - 1.68
C - 2.38

Q3 - BC-109
E - 0.67
B - 1.29
C - 6.35

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  Not sure if it's just something simple that my noobness does not permit me to recognize.

Thanks,
Pat

22
This worked until I attempted to fix it.  Which I apparently am not good at.

Originally had it wired to have a battery and DC jack.  there was a little hum, so I decided to re-do it - this was my 3rd pedal so  I thought the manual wiring on the 3pdt could be the culprit.  I put in a new input jack, got rid of the battery, and put in a new 3PDT with 1776 board on the switch. 

before my precision repair work, I did get bypass, with a bit of hum whether the effect was engaged or bypassed.  but the fuzz did work.  it actually even sounded good.

now I get perfectly clean bypass and no effect.  also the LED does not turn on.  I ran the SW on the PCB to the round hole on the 1776 board.

if anyone could point me in the right direction, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Pat

23
Stupid question, I am stumped.  The new version Road Rage is all done, hooking it up to a Pasty Face.

Do I take off the power pad labeled -9v, or 9v?

And then hook that up to the round hole that says -9v on the main Pasty Face?  I would assume -9 on the Road Rage, to -9 round pad on the Pasty Face, but am thinking I may also destroy something.

Thanks,
Pat

24
Noob here.  I have a Mangler and need to replace the 3pdt.  I was going to use the new road rage board on the 3pdt, but the led is already on the main mangler pcb.

Do I run a wire from the square pad on the road rage to the SW on the main PCB?

Thanks,
Pat

25
Noob here.  I made the Mangler 2014, and it seems to work fine - I measured every component before putting them in, and took embarrassingly long.  I got a pair of Mullard OC76 from Small Bear and used his resistors as follows for the transistors

R1 = 110 K
R2 = 22 K
R3 = 11 K
R4 = 680 ohms

With the red lead on ground, and testing with the black probe, I get 2.5 volts at the test point.

On Q1, I get nothing at the emitter.  Base is .114v, collector is .595v.  When I touched the Q1 base with the probe, it made a sound through the amp, if that means anything.

On Q2, I get .496 on the emitter.  Base is .586, collector is 2.47 and it kept going up

Pedal seems to work fine, fuzzes like crazy, bypass is fine.  A for effort, and I still get ice cream after the game?  Get em on the next Mangler?

Thanks,
Pat

26
I was about to solder in the trimpot, and I noticed the "1" on the PCB.  Does that indicate leg 1?  I bought a trimpot from Small Bear which fits perfectly in the space, but the leg it has marked "1", is on the other side.

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=160

Do I have the wrong type of trimpot, or am I interpreting the PCB incorrectly?

If there is one thing I've learned recently, soldering is way easier than de-soldering.

Thanks

27
I have received a nice set of Mullard germaniums from Small Bear, but I'm not sure if his resistor values correlate directly to the Mangler.  I looked through some old threads, but couldn't find a definitive answer.  Does R3 = R3, etc?

Small Bear says
R3 - 22K
R4 - 680 ohms
R5 - 11K
R6 - 110K

Madbean says
R3 - 220 ohms
R4 - 470 ohms
R5 - 47 ohms
R6 - 4.7K

The Small Bear package says
Q1
87, L = 229
Q2
103, L = 264

I tried using this thing, but can't figure it out.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/biascalc/bmbias.html

Thanks

28
dumb question.  the BOM for the 3PRR calls for a LM78L15 regulator.  Is that the same as this?  Not sure what LM stands for.

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=243

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