News:

Forum may be experiencing issues.

Main Menu
Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - zombiesonore

#91
This is a good suggestion, I will do that.
Thanks
#92
Ok,
Now, I've solder the regulator in the good way. I've a nice +15V on it's output.
Just for the precision, I've used a LM7815 in the first place, when I've took the voltages but then I've fried it...
I've check every components and re-solder everything. I'm loosing my mind and thinking to put this build away for some times.
This is the first time that I spend this much "efforts" on a pedal. Maybe I have not the good approach...
There's one thing I didn't tried: removing the Filter PCB. But I don't see why this would be a problem.
Also the bulb and the photocells I'm using are not the ones on the B.O.M. Everything else is... (I've also used 10µF Tantalum on C26 and C27 'cause I was out of electrolytic...)
Anyway, thank you (both of you) for your time!
Etienne
#93
Last pic...
#94
Yeah! Thanks for all this help!
I'll do what you've said.
There's 3 pictures in attachments. In those, I've jumper the LED, I will solder it for the next tests.
#95
Hi!
I really think that my speed pot his properly wired.
I've tried to substitute 2n5088 to 2n3904 => nothing
I've changed R46 from 47K to 4K7 => nothing
I'm going for a (third!) full solder check...
Thanks for helping!
Etienne
#96
Hello midwayfair,
yes, I've connected the rate LED. It's ON but no flash...
#97
Hello everybody,
again, it's time for a complex build (for me, anyway!)
Everything seems in place, there's sound but no sweep. The bulb light is working and seems bright enough but there's no flashing, like if the LFO was not working...
I've tried different transistor in Q13: MPSA18/14, BC108C, nothing change.
Is it normal that there's almost 0V on each pin of VOL and INT ?
Does anyone have any idea?
Thanks in advance!
Etienne

Some Voltages:
LT1054:
1# 1.06  5# 0.2
2# 4.99  6# 2.6
3# 0.01  7# 1.48
4# 0.01  8# 9.07

78L15
I# 17.08
G# 0
O# 16.24

Q1: C# 2.13  B#0.9    E#1.01
Q2: C# 4.17  B# 2.13 E# 1.52
Q3: C# 13.17 B# 4.19 E# 3.74
Q4: C# 17.0  B# 4.8  E# 4.95
Q5: C# 12.6  B# 4.95  E# 4.36
Q6: C# 17.15 B# 4.85  E# 4.99
Q7: C# 12.7  B# 4.99 E# 4.40
Q8: C# 17.14  B# 4.84  E# 4.97
Q9: C# 12.7  B# 4.96 E# 4.37
Q10: C# 17.13  B# 6.15  E# 6.33
Q11: C# 16.29  B# 4.50  E# 8.60
Q12: C# 16.26  B# 8.95  E# 8.41
Q13: C# 3.82  B# 1.18  E#0.49 (2n5088)
Q14: G# 0 S# 0.6 D# 17.04

#98
Hi,
I was wondering: I've seen at smallbear that we can use 2xMN3008 to get 1xMN3005. Is it possible with the aquaboy? Is there any electric power problems?
Anyway, a friend of mine who is a great musician from Argentina came yesterday and tried the aquaboy, he was amazed too and it was a beautiful musical moment.
Now I've the hardbingerOne and the LowRider and the Quadrovibe and the ... and the ... to build!
Thanks again,
Etienne
#99
I've build the MN3008 version.
Amazing, simply amazing!
I've owned a Maxon AD-9 and I can't hear any audio quality difference, and with the aquaboyDX, there's modulation!
I'm dazed... 
#100
Hi everybody,
this *!??!* delay is working!
Scruffie, thank you so much, you saves me so much time and pain! Q4 was guilty.
Also, I've 5.5V on the pin 7 of the compander, is that too much? should I try to get 4.5V ?

Now I have my first home-made Analog Delay, I'm so happy! Again thanks Madbean to give us this kind of project: feasible!
I have the v3205 version working so I guess I will play with it a while and them make work the mn3008 version.
Scruffie (from Futurama?) : thanks, thanks, thanks ( * 1000) !

Etienne
#101
Okay, thanks a lot!
I'll do that tomorrow, it's past 2 am now...

When I probe the voltage, I thought that something was wrong with Q4, so I'm not THAT dumb...
#102
Let's go!

IC 1:
1# 4.39  8# 8.80
2# 4.39  7# 4.39
3# 4.36  6# 4.39
4# 0     5# 4.37

IC 2.
1# 1.01  16# 0.12
2# 1.79  15# 1.79
3# 1.79  14# 1.79
4# 0     13# 8.81
5# 1.80  12# 1.80
6# 1.77  11# 4.87
7# 2.94  10# 4.86
8# 1.80   9# 1.80

IC 3:
1# 0      8# 7.23
2# 3.47   7# 3.92
3# 5.01   6# 3.99
4# 5.04   5# 7.94

IC 4:
1# 0      8# 7.22
2# 4.00   7# 2.99
3# 5.27   6# 3.99
4# 5.30   5# 7.85

IC 5:
1# 7.93   8# 7.22
2# 3.97   7# 3.85
3# 0      6# 0
4# 4.01   5# 3.77

IC 6:
1# 4.41  8# 8.80
2# 4.41  7# 4.41
3# 4.20  6# 4.42
4# 0     5# 4.42

Q1:
C 8.78
B 2.68
E 3.14


Q2:
C 8.78
B 2.80
E 2.31


Q3:
C 8.78
B 5.04
E 4.62


Q4:
C 8.81
B 0
E 0


And... that's it !

Thanks Scruffie.
#103
Thanks for the answer!

Just to confort you, I've started with the MN3008 version and then I've changed the necessary components for the v3205.
I've stayed with the mn3001 for the clock because I've read a report which said that it works. I've changed the jumper and add D3, D2, and changed some resistors values.
Anyway, I have sound on pin 3 of both of v3205 chip. There's something I don't get...
#104
Hello everyone,
I'm French so please excuse my poor English.

First, I would like to thanks Madbean for putting so many great DIY projects! I've build many of them and they're all awesome.

Now, I've tried to build the AquaBoy Deluxe. I've order 2 MN3008 and 2 v3205 so I have the choice. I used both with MN3101 clock.
After having trouble with the MN3008 I switched to v3205. But now, I think the problem is not here.
The problem is: there's delay sound on IC4 pin 3, but none on the output of the board, just clean sound.
I think of a mix problem or a feedback problem.
I've triple checked everything. I've checked resistors/diodes/pots/trim values. I don't know where to start looking for.
So, if anyone have any idea, I take it!
Thanks!

Etienne