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I had checked those out the first year they came out (same year I got my Taylor) and the thing that put me off was the plywood neck. It was some 30+ thin strips running the length of the neck that were glued together.
See Pic:


Martin called it more stable than a solid neck, but I hated it. I seem to remember hearing that they abandoned those necks and are back to using solid wood. Is yours solid or ply?
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The Shredder is a BYOC pedal I built years ago. Basically a Marshall Shredmaster. Picking is rarely that tough. I always approach a gig like this: I usually have more than 1 rehearsal with a band/show etc. So for the first rehearsal, I look at what the music requires and take a variety of pedals (so for Rent, I took the big board with my Shredder, Egghead, Stage 3 boost, Compressor, Phase 90, DD-3, Sea Urchin, Whammy V, Tuner and Small Clone. At the first rehearsal I made notes about what I was using and what I didn't need. So for this particular show, I found that the OD on my amp worked very well (Peavey Classic 30), so out with the Egghead and Stage 3 boost; I never turned on the comp, out with that; the Phase got turned on once and it wasn't really needed. That left me needing a Distortion, Tuner, Chorus and Delay. Boom 4 pedals. I am still using the whammy for the show, but that sits to the side of the board. I have found that with most of my gigging, I really only use 3-5 pedals. So I will just swap them out on the baby board.
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I discovered that the space I have available to me for the musical I am doing is really small. So the big pedal board is out. Today I got a new Pedaltrain Nano! Love this little thing. Wired it up and it is fantastic for grab and go gigging, or tiny stage spaces. From Left to Right:
Sea Urchin (this one is a new build, haven't spent time with it, so the DD-3 in the background is backup), Small Clone, Shredder, Tuner. Powered with my Onespot.
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Can I ask why? If you are creating a daisy-chained PS anyway, it would be far cheaper and simpler to just buy a onespot. That transformer is almost $60 by itself. A Onespot is about $20.
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Those will work just fine.
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Something is definitely not right there. You are showing 18v at ground. Can you test voltage on the ground plane. You should get:
Top Pin 18V
Middle Pin 0v
Bottom Pin 24v
Somethings not right...
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OK, that helps. That is a 78L18 regulator (designed to regulate to 18V). You should see 18v on the output pin of that regulator. Post the voltages (DC) that you get from each of the 3 pins.
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A few bits of info:
1. The current Q-tron+ uses a 24VDC power supply. I have look through the web and that seems to be the consensus for all Q-trons. So if your PS is putting out 30VDC, then there may be a problem with it.
Can you post a picture of the label on the power supply itself?
2. The "regulator" that you tested, can you look at what is printed on it? It sounds like that is a 9v regulator not a 5v. Knowing the part number will help.
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Just saw the document! Thanks MB! So for the Micro Zero Point, the Depth mod. With the depth all the way down, will you hear any modulation in its stock form?

It would be great to use the Depth mod, but being able to "turn off modulation" by dialing down the Depth pot.

Where did you find the documentation? I still can't get it on the project page.
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I'm gonna disagree a little. The Vol and Gain can be set and forget, but if you play with more than one type of guitar, you are going to want to be able to manipulate the presence knob. I find that the setting I have for my Tele is a bit different than for my LP copy.
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So there are 2 different variations of the Smoothie Vibe mod floating around the forum. One suggest switching out C5 (10n vs 100n), while the other points to a schematic that shows C2 & C3 (both 47n) changed to 10n and 100n respectively. Which is it? I have a lovely 4pdt switch here to do a C2/C3 mod, but If I only need to do C5, then I can save the switch and use a DPDT.
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[Read the Weber page thoroughly]

Ok, so that is a high power beast of an amp (even though it is rated at 30 watts, it is a pretty major amp). You are going to want to get a 100watt attenuator for that thing. Hot Plate and Weber both make some great ones:
http://www.thdelectronics.com/product_page_hotplate.html

http://www.tedweber.com/atten.htm

Read the Weber page thoroughly. Don't cheap out and get something less than 100watts (trust me on this). You will be looking at $175+ depending on the model that you choose. Be careful, an AC30 is a nice amp and it would be a shame, and cost quite a bit to fix a cooked OT. You also need to make sure that you get an attenuator that either matches the output impedance of your amp (I believe it is 16ohm, but you need to verify this, the manual should tell you), or get an attenuator that can match impedances.
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As for the effect loop volume box- don't buy one DIY it if you like. It is a pot and 2 jacks in a box. That's it. It goes in the effect loop ONLY.

Before we go any further, you need to tell us what type of amp you are using. Also note if it is a combo (amp and speaker in one, or a head and separate speaker cab)
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[. Using a standard volume pedal or pot will not work. They cannot handle the output power of a tube amp.]

I'm going to tread lightly on this since doing it wrong  can and will destroy the output transformer on you tube amp:
A true attenuator is a device that acts as a load on the output of your amp in a similar fashion as a speaker. Different attenuators do this in different ways, some use very large Resistors, others use speaker motors, others use Rheostats (which are really just variable resistors) Depending on the amp you are using, you need to use an attenuator that can handle roughly double your amps output power. For example: my little champ combo puts out 6-10 watts depending on which tube I use. I would want an attenuator that can handle at least 25 watts. Why? Well, as you turn up your amp into distortion, the amp becomes more efficient and actually produces more than the stated output power (a rating of 10 watts on an amp relates to clean output, not distorted). Here is where the concern is: if you burn up an attenuator (and believe me, it can happen), you can end up with a few situations. 1. The OT can short to ground and cook itself. 2. All of the output of the amp can be sent to the speaker (and at the least you will get  a very loud amp, worst, your speaker blows) 3. The OT shorts to itself and burns up.
So all that said, if you still want to use an attenuator you need to:
1. Get one rated for double your output power to be safe.
2. Connect it as the instructions say. Typically you plug your speaker out of your amp into the attenuator, then connect the attenuator to the speaker.
3. Using a standard volume pedal or pot will not work. They cannot handle the output power of a tube amp.
DIY'ing it is possible, but typically not a good idea unless you are going to making an attenuator under 25 watts. More than that, and the parts get tough to find and quite costly. Also keep in mind that an attenuator dissipates a large amount of heat. So heatsinks, venting etc. are needed to keep it cool.
One last thing, a heavily attenuated amp almost never sounds like a lower powered amp, just a really choked high power amp.
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Now called Zero Point Micro?
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