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What I don't understand is the amount expected in a tip.  For a restaurant, for example, when I was younger a pretty standard amount was 15% of the final bill.  Then I run into some friends who tell me that when they were servers 15% was a minimum, and 20% was more acceptable.  But my sister-in-law was also a wait server and when I tried tipping her she scoffed and said "for a pizza place, don't tip more than a dollar a person.  That's plenty."

So I really have no idea about what's expected even where I live.  I think it varies by person and by restaurant and by city and by State here in the U.S.

Anyone know of any articles on what is needed to be done with the microcontroller, relay and optical chip to make a silent, mute-while-switch deal?  I'd like to learn and then build my own...  mostly for an exercise in learning and building, but also because I want a silent switch and still add in some of the other cool things that can be found on some 3PDT switch boards, such as power filtering, trim on the LED to adjust brightness, etc.

From what I gather, TH-Customs' Uber-Switch does this, and even though there's a schematic that I've looked over a lot, the process isn't explained in the BOM.

Edit:  Wow, if it was a snake it would have bit me.  Found my answer: http://diy.thcustom.com/switching-relay-true-bypass-circuits-using-a-microcontroller/

you can check these articles too:
http://stompville.co.uk/?p=260
http://stompville.co.uk/?p=423
Very descriptive and with links to debouncing routines

Awesome, thank you!

Anyone know of any articles on what is needed to be done with the microcontroller, relay and optical chip to make a silent, mute-while-switch deal?  I'd like to learn and then build my own...  mostly for an exercise in learning and building, but also because I want a silent switch and still add in some of the other cool things that can be found on some 3PDT switch boards, such as power filtering, trim on the LED to adjust brightness, etc.

From what I gather, TH-Customs' Uber-Switch does this, and even though there's a schematic that I've looked over a lot, the process isn't explained in the BOM.

Edit:  Wow, if it was a snake it would have bit me.  Found my answer: http://diy.thcustom.com/switching-relay-true-bypass-circuits-using-a-microcontroller/

You could move to the mid Atlantic. People here add letters. "Warter" is something you drink, and "warsh" is something you do to your clothes. My grandmother had it. My mother does not. Somehow my sister got it. Maybe it skips a generation, like baldness.

That generally just happens with the letter combo "ar" though, and sounds a lot like "or" (i.e. "worsh those clothes").  In the same region some letters are dropped as well, such as the "L" when talking about "diggin' a hoe" in the ground.  Oh, and that brings up another...  the suffix ing is nearly always shortened to just in'   

Of course, when talking about grandmothers, everything is fair game.  The word "fish" becomes "feesh".

No, Geordi is from the USS Enterprise.

I agree wholeheartedly.  It's definitely spelled "solder".  (The "L" is silent though  )

So there are a few opinions in this thread about the Alpha DPDT "light click" vs. a SPST momentary "no click" switch...   does anyone know of any video review/comparisons of different effects pedal switching possibilities? 

Pretty cool to follow build threads like this.  Reminds me to start taking pictures of the process that my father-in-law and I started for my pedal board, which we halted due to running out of time for the day and running out of board to use (I had to go back to the lumberyard anyway, lol).

So far this build looks very similar, with the exception of size and interior shape.  I'm using 1" solid poplar for the bulk of my build.

Take a look here:  http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=17802.msg170967#msg170967

I have the Chicago one.  I got it from Harbor Freight for just about that same price.  It's pretty easy to modify it, really.  I just drilled a couple holes in the lid of one of the hopper containers and screwed in two male 1/4" quick disconnect fittings.  Then run 3/8" OD vinyl tubing from the air in/out on the gun (where the hopper would be) to the two QD fittings.  That mod allows you to take the hopper off the top of the gun and gets the whole system working much more fluidly (no spitting).

From what I've read, the Eastwood or the Harbor Freight (Chicago) guns are both beginner/hobby-level tools which aren't really looked down upon.  I've certainly been able to get some decent looking results.  If you plan to do a LOT of powder coating, then maybe you want to look into something a little higher quality.  (That being said, I'm sticking with my Chicago gun for my hobby/personal use)

I think you're referring to "cross linking".

However, if you cured the base coat, there should be no bleed into clear, since polyester powder is most often thermoset. I believe most toner is thermoplastic, which is why you can do toner transfers.

Further, the decal should be a bit of a barrier to any base coat bleed if there was any, especially since its white. 

Afik, dormants work as a result of a multi sided crystalline particle, much like flip flop colors do. The clear just changes the angle of refraction, so you get an iridescent effect based on angle light hits the particle. Not bleed. That said, some people will half cure the base coat of any two coat process in an effort to promote a better bond between coats, aka cross linking.

If you want to narrow it down, put some base coat on a scrap, and cure it. Do the same with some toner. Then sprinkle enough clear to over cover on each and bake. You'll have your answer, though a solution may take a bit more work.

No offense to the powder forums but there's lots of well intentioned but bad info out there. Take it all with a grain of salt unless it's direct from the powder manufacturer.

This is good to know, because I think I *did* undercure my base coat originally.  So by shooting clear and doing a full cure, that should, in theory, stop any additional bleeding (cross-linking) with a second round of clear over a decal.

Initial powder color bleeds into the clear.  Apparently that's how "dormant" colors work. 

The process of color, then clear (fully cured), then decal, then clear again is what I'm hoping will work.  I've been told that it shouldn't work that way because the color will still bleed into the 2nd coat of clear...  but I can't lose much by giving it a shot.

I don't think it's the ink diffusing.  This is laser paper with color laser printing.  My second pic is blurry but it really looks like what the powder guys are saying...  the dormant bled into the clear.  They say that's supposed to happen with dormant colors, and there's no way to lock in the color.  You can't even shoot black over a dormant color without some bleeding.

Seeing as how I ordered about 6 or 7 colors of powder to start, all of them being dormant, my only hope is that a full cure on the first coat of clear will lock in the dormant color.  Otherwise, I'm going to have to decal and then use spray clear lacquer or something, which is not what I wanted to do.  Only other option is to order new colors that aren't dormant.

Papilio white bake-on laser decal paper...  with a color laser printer.

Guys over on a powdercoat forum say it's because the dormant colors pull through when clear coating.  Dag-nabbit!  If it's not one thing it's another when trying to get pretty finished enclosures!  LOL!

It looks like my clear coat picked up some of the base coat, and I lost all the color detail in my decal. Pictures are worth a thousand words, so here goes:

Before clear coat:


After:



I'm using Columbia coatings dormant sparkle red as the base coat in those pictures, followed by Columbia coatings gloss clear as the clear coat.  I did a full cure on the base coat, 15 minutes at 375, then apply the decal and let it dry overnight. Then I applied the clear coat, and did another full cure, 15 minutes at 375. I have no idea what went wrong. Any suggestions?