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Amazing! Congratulations!

I had a dual NGD (NG[irl]D and NG[uitar]D) back in '07. Never getting rid of either. <3

Until Mr. Right comes along when she's 35, right? 

I figured we could all celebrate a little more this year (2016 was rough)!  I know that many of you had newborns in 2016.

Welcome to the world, Levi Armyn Daley, born 12/29 at 10:07pm.  He's a chunker, he eats nonstop, and he doesn't shut up (very much like me)!


My wife also got me my deeply desired Gretsch G5420T (Fairlane Blue) for Christmas this year.  She says she'll never be able to top this gift, and she's probably right.

I guess I haven't had much issue with it.  I used Industrial Velcro (name brand) and things seem to work fine.

I'm glad most of you agree with my thoughts on the CGI.  (The guy I went with thought it was nice.)

All I could think of with the CGI was "that dude's eyes look like Dobby from Harry Potter."

I had mixed feelings about it.  Lots of good action, but darker.  Felt like just a need for Disney to capitalize on the Star Wars franchise for little reason.

Also, I don't think your board will fit in a 1590G, in case that's what you had planned.  The caps are too tall, and you socketed your IC.

Let's see if this helps:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=22919

I think I had the same problem.  Let me do some searching in this forum and look for a link.

And I think 400mA won't do it with that number of pcbs effects.

I have to agree.  I wonder if the 400mA also includes the relays?  If so, I definitely would think it may not be enough.

I've never used one, but if you look at a big chunk of P&W boards (I'm in the "Gear Talk: P&W" Facebook group... and sadly, it's full of trolls), many of these boards have the H9.

The only thing I'd be cautious about is the interface for a live setting, like Sunday morning.  You'd probably want a MIDI controller to go along with it.

I've also heard people suggest saving some change and getting a Line6 M9.

I love having my 3 year old come in and ask what I'm doing.  The best thing is when I just tell her "is the light on" (referring to my soldering iron), and she says "yes; it's hot, I'll stay away from it and be careful."

She loves playing with all the tools, ESPECIALLY the desolder sucker.  I'm waiting for her to be old enough to actually solder.

Is it late November yet? 

^^^ This!

On the plus side, it's a good opportunity to learn to read resistor codes It only takes a bit of practice!

This is actually why I don't label resistors.  It gives people a chance to either do a quick Google on DigiKey, or learn them, or use a DMM.  Maybe that's why I don't get too much business...

As a side note.  I suggest looking into digital vs analog return currents.  It will improve your PCB design and you won't stress sharing a ground plane etc.  There are a lot of misconceptions out there.

I'll dig into that at some point.  I'm redesigning my PCB for the third time to keep digital and analog even further apart than I did last time.  I'm also doing my best to keep ground planes super small.

I can confirm that the TLP222G can completely mute the signal when used in conjunction with relay switching as described on the stompville site.

This weekend I was able to 99% mute the signal when using a 10k series resistor on the audio path.  That was achieved by using a relay to mute the signal.  I wonder if this is all because of a breadboard.  When the 10k series resistor was used with the TLP222G, I got about an 80% mute.

Very curious indeed.

Now, to be fair, I did a couple things:
1. Turned my amp (Blues Jr) up to max master volume and max volume.  (Talk about a bunch of 'noise.')
2. Tested with my Epi Les Paul.
3. Tested with a Ditto looper at max volume.

I'm not 100% pleased; perhaps I'm 90%.

None of those will fully mute your signal in that arrangement.

I think I just needed someone to confirm this.

Use a relay in conjunction with the opto to stop the pop but still fully ground the signal.

This is what I think I'm going to do.

Reading between the lines i think this is what is going on but he doesn't want to give away the full schematic which is fair enough as its for the BOTY.

It's not THAT hush, hush.  Some know about it.  And until I saw the BOTY post, I wasn't keeping it as close to my vest.  FWIW, I do plan on making this open source and offering a kit.

Is the schematic for the relay & muting portion as shown here? : http://stompville.co.uk/?p=423 (about half way down the page)

His post, along with the back and forth with R.G. in DIYSB, is what I used as a basis.  I just had to learn more about the technical details of these things than I ever have before.

OK, if you're using the I2C bus then yes keep AGND & DGND seperate and if neccessary join them only at 1 place, i tend to put 2 pads next to each other so i can easily pop a jumper on if needs be, i'd also suggest adding plenty of filtering in close proximity to try and keep the noise levels down.

Yeah, I thought about doing that!

The 222G appears to fully mute the signal when switching as i don't get any pops and the switch is more noticeable as there is a percieved silence, i'll confirm this tomorrow by editing my code and putting a much larger delay in.

Yeah, like 5 seconds!