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I tried moving parts a bit to get more space between traces and pads.

Do you mean the isolation between pads and other stuff? How do I increase that that?

Ah, it was directly at polygon properties. I tried increasing it, does this look better:

Thanks a lot to everyone for suggestions and information! I moved parts bit more and here's the current version:

I would make the isolation a bit more and also make sure there is more space between traces and pads to reduce the possibility of connecting things that are supposed to be connected:)

I tried moving parts a bit to get more space between traces and pads.

Do you mean the isolation between pads and other stuff? How do I increase that that?

I once had someone explain to me that circuit boards are like long lines of people standing shoulder to shoulder. Each time the 'power' gets turned on, all that happens is that the people in the lines nudge the person next to them until the end. It doesn't really matter how long the lines are, because this nudging is almost instantaneous.

So in the end, 45 degrees or 90 don't really matter, but they can make routing a little easier at times. Neither does the length of connections, because it takes a really, really long line before the electronic latency is noticeable, and there's no way you could ever fit even the largest enclosure with that much trace length.

Jacob

Thanks Jacob! Really informative post. I actually tried to look a bit for other peoples designs, but I think I was trying to look for way too specific stuff (like placements for all active components and so on). I'll try to study more of those.

No idea what enclosure size or restrictions you have.

It's going into 1590BB with top mounted jacks. No other restrictions.

move r5, r16 and r15 a bit to the left. you'll eliminate the 90 turn to the clr.

Thanks. I moved those around and I think its bit better now

If you're going to cnc, try to optimize the cuts and trace widths to make the most of your cutter diameter. In general make sure that your diameter is a little thinner than your cuts, but not too much. Otherwise, it will take more passes to cut (dia too small), or worse (dia too big), you take away material off your traces.

Alright! I'll need to check to CNC mill next Monday to see what size are the cutters. I've only ran a single test layout with it so far.

Awesome! The graphics look really cool.

Not 100% on the knobs but these work for now.

They look good, but I would probably go with something more colorful. 

Hey,

I got access to CNC PCB mill and lots of cheap material. It can do single sided PCBs (drills holes and everything). So, I just did my first layout for Big Muff with Eagle.



So, even I think it looks messy. I tried to move parts around and redo connections, but that's pretty much best I could on first try. It's going in a 1590BB, so there's lots of room. I tried to put the parts bit more apart to make soldering more easy (no solder mask).

So, could someone more experienced take a look and let me know what immediate problems are there? Will the long connections (for example C2 to C4, C8 to C6 or volume pot to out) cause problems?

Lots of people seem to use 45 degree angles instead of 90 degrees. I've always thought this doesn't matter in audio frequencies (only higher). Does it?

Any other tips or advice?

Thanks!

Edit. One more question: what are those blue patches at bottom right, below volume pot and at top right corner?

I've built from bodies I've gotten, never started from just a block of wood.

Yeah, same here. I think my most played guitar is a Telecaster I put together when I was 14 or 15 years old.

There's also area about guitar building here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?board=64.0

Hey!

So whats wrong with it? No signal at all?  Audioprobe is usually the easiest way to figure out where the signal is lost.

Also, post voltages from the IC.

Nice work! Really clean guts.

Awesome!

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=21470.0

Nope, just like the docs say: C5,  C6,  C7 and regulator are not needed.

If the original switch is SPDT then DPDT gets the job done. Use the extra row for the leds like this: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qkf9a.png

Adjust the resistors so that the leds are similar in brightness.

Post a schematic if you need more precise help.

Edit. Forget the latching switch on the picture.

Went through all the components again. All resistors, caps, pots, ICs, diodes and transistors are the correct ones. It's got to be a bad transistor or IC somewhere. Or broken trace or bad solder. Now I wish I had socketed transistors on this build. I think I should have spare one of every IC except MN3007..

Hey!

I changed both IC7 and IC8 and it made a change: now I get this weird distorted signal when attack is set between 8 and 10 o'clock. When attack is set above that no effected signal is getting through. I recorded short video to show how it sounds: https://youtu.be/d9TOt1thvUI (It sounds like its oscillating, but its not. First blend is at half, attack at minimum. Then I rise attack and only clean signal gets through. Then I max out blend and turn the attack down to get signal through).

All that noise and weird sound is introduced at IC11. Input of IC11 is fairly clean.

Soo.. Any ideas? 

Daaaaamn. Great job! 

Awesome build! Love the books too.