Messages

Ok. Will do when I get home today. Thanks.

I don't understand what you mean by not connected to the circuit. Could you please explain what you want me to do? Sorry for being a pain.

Put a LT1054 in and still the same. Get bypass, switch on nothing.

Ok Jon. I feel real stupid. If you go back to page 4 of the build doc it says to solder D1, D4, C1, C2, C6 and C7 and omit everything else for the voltage change. That's why I didn't put one in. I hope I didn't fry the transistors. Thanks for the help.

No idea what the heck I did to this. It will bypass but once switched on I get nothing. My voltages are way out of wack from the ones that I found from another post. I used a Road Rage to change the power input. This just blows me away. Maybe I have the Road Rage hooked up wrong but I followed the instructions. Any ideas on how I screwed up this 25 part build ? Here are the voltages I am getting:

Q1                       Q2             Q3
E - 8.56                E - 8.66      E - 9.15     
B - 8.46                B - 8.56      B - 9.10
C - 8.16                C - 8.13      C - 9.10

I received my AC-125 transistor set from Paul (Chromesphere) today for my Bumblebee build. He wrote a note on the invoice, suggested adding a bias control to the pedal and to ask on here for advice on how to do it. Did a forum search and if there is something I am not finding it.  Anyone have an idea on how to go about doing this? Thanks, Brian

Those look fantastic. I wish I had your talent.

I think parchment would look good and give it a nice aged look. I myself am not a fan of mint but that's me.  I am sure there are 100's that like the mint look.

Out of 8 orders I have made with them I have had one problem (bag spilt during shipment and a couple of ICs were missing). They replaced them (took longer than I thought it should) so I can't complain. And along with Slacker my orders have been small. I did order 20 switches 2 sales ago and they made it with no problem. This is just a hobby for me so if something is missing/damaged its not that big a deal as long as it gets replaced. I suppose I have been lucky with my orders because with the exception of the missing ICs and a broken DPDT from tayda everything I have ordered (Small Bear, Tayda, Mammoth, Arrow, Paul in Austrailia, etc....) has made it to me intact.

Just got an email from Mammoth on a sale Apr 15 - 17. Here's the link:

http://secure.campaigner.com/Campaigner/Public/t.show?85uto--45iyj-z8nmdz0&_v=2

Only 4 things on sale (only thing interesting to me is the switches). Pro and premier 3pdts 35% off. A battery sled, clear fuse kits and a voltage regulator.
Brian

For the guys in Europe, if all goes as planned, my wife is visiting her sister in the Netherlands in June.  I am thinking she might have room to bring a few spools of wire in her luggage with her.  Of course if she has the chance of getting stopped in  Schiphol and has to pay duty on the wire it may not be worth it (and with the security the way it is now days wire in a bag might cause a problem). There would have to be someone in NL who could go get the wire (my sister-in-law lives south of Nijmegen, I think around Ottersum) or someone they could ship it to who then could distribute it to those that want it.  I don't know if this would be more trouble than it would be worth for you all but I would be willing to give it a try. You all could order the wire from SB, have it shipped to me (that way there is no money changing hands) and she will be there I think around mid June. Give it some thought and if it sounds good PM me. My only request would be for one person to be the focal point in Europe, kind of like a group buy, so I am not getting bombarded with emails LOL. Brian

I had several do the same thing. What Jimilee said might well be true, ie, my red one did it but so did a yellow and white one with clear decals.  I have had no problems with the white decals. I put a very small drop of dishwashing liquid in my warm water, wash the box with dishwashing soap, rinse it, leave it wet, take a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol and wipe over the top, then put the decal on. Never had the bubbles again after doing this. If you try this do a practice run first. Also, one of the site members (Peak) suggested using one of those cheap black sponge paint brushes to get the decal down instead of a napkin, etc.... I works really good. If you figure out what is doing it I would really like to know. 

I made a mistake about shipping from Parts Express. It starts at 5.95 but free if you spend $98 up. They sometimes have coupons for $5 off on purchases of $25 up but haven't seen one in awhile. Sorry about that.

That's a nice site. Just some things I discovered from building one:
1). I would build it like a Pedaltrain with hardwood slats going across instead of a plywood top. It is much easier then to have to rout the through slots.
2). If you have a lot of pedals that have side in/out jacks the through slot needs to be bigger than 2 of your hook up jacks hooked into your pedals. Due to noisey pedals I finally made my own cables with pancake jacks. The majority of my pedals have side jacks and they don't fit very well because the slot isn't big enough.
3). This is just me and how my next one will be built. My input chassis Jack would go at the start of my first row of pedals and I would put one at the beginning and end of every roll. I rather have a hard wired cable going between rolls than having to run a 3ft hookup cable from one side to the other. People might think this is overkill (and it probably is) but I want to keep my wiring as neat as possible. 
4). Figure out how you are going to keep the cables running underneath stored so they don't hang down. I first tried some hard plastic tubing with adhesive tape on the back that is used for cable runs. That didn't work for long. I bought some cable like hooks that you can screw in at Lowes and they are ok but on the next one I will find something else.
5). Youre going to have to figure out how your going to plug in your pedal power supply. I got a power strip with surge protector cut off the end and wired it up to the powerCon Jack. I use a Godlyke power supply on mine.
Here are the parts I used on mine:
Neutrik NJ3FP6C 1/4" Locking Chassis Jack Nickel For in/out
Neutrik NAC3MPA-1 powerCON Chassis Connector Power In Blue
Neutrik NAC3FCA powerCON Cable Connector Power In Blue
6 ft. AC Power Cord Black 18/3
Amphenol ACPM-RN 1/4" Mono Right Angle Phone Plug Connector Sati
Pro Co Guitar & Instrument Cable 90% Shield 1 ft. USA
I bought this from Parts Express. I think they raised their shipping to like $9+ so I am sure you can find this more reasonable somewhere else.
I tried to attach a picture of mine but it didn't work. Anyway if you need anything I will try to help. Brian

Got an email from Mammouth this morning and their Pro 3pdt is $2.47 and the Premier is $2.28 today and tomorrow. The deduction is in the cart when added. My IPad would not show the Premiers On the switch page so if that happens to you just do a 3pdt search in the store. I purchased the pros last time they did this an they seem to be good switches. Just a heads up if you like their switches.