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So far, the Krunkee has been the most fun. It's bouncy and crunchy and just a blast to play.

What happened to this project? Is it no longer available?

...using the fabbed board on top on the enclosure and marking thru the center pot hole for each of pots. anyone got any better ideas. I going to try Photoshop but my ps skills are limited. I can do most things but spacing thing equally and to the scale of the enclosure proves difficult.

To do this, delete all traces connecting the components to ground so that you just have the airwires. Now rename the polygon used as the ground pour to GND. This will connect all the airwires to ground and create thermals (the cross hairs) around the pads.

thanks, works as advertised 

...make them as one? All ground pads are on a trace, when i look at other (bean's) the pad are part of the pour how do i change this? The way it looks now I still have a airwire connecting c5 to r10 for ground. If the ground pad or r10's ground side was in the ground pour i would have this problem. Thanks for any help.

I just looked at my first layout and the ground pad is in the ground pour, i wonder what changed or what I did wrong.



Also this is my second layout I have ever done. If you have any critiques good or bad I would appreciate it.

200 carbon film from Mouser costs $2.80. 200 Metal Film costs $4.00.

I buy at least one pack of some resistor value every time I order from Mouser. And, since I do a few dozen orders a year, it stacks up!

Are there actual resistor packs at mouser? I can find anything except the resistor kits and they are carbon comp.

I tried a couple of chinese dealers on ebay that some people refer to, including the "pick any 2000 resistor of these 50 values" guy and I didn't like them. All of the leads seem to be really thin, being thin also makes them a hair harder to solder. Any suggestions for bulk metal film or just keep buy individuals(in bulk) from mouser?

Thanks for any opinions.

I'd be interested for sure.

thanks guys for the compliments. I replied to this post once already but I accidentally deleted it (dang iPhone.) I'm sure the schematic has been done before but I've never seen it done. I figure it might help me (or someone else) in the future should anything every go wrong. I was originally going to do it with a waterslide but the only ones I had are clear and didn't work out with the grey background.

What's the plan for your next build?

nothing planned but always looking for something, I actually enjoy building these pedals more than playing guitar rigg now. Have any suggestions?

Fatpants build. Hammered finish in a can from walmart. Logo is a waterslide. Led on the board because I didn't want that space empty and I didn't want extra wires coming off the board. I didn't get to spend the time on the wiring so it come out a little funky but its still functional.

1 days, 3 hours and 22 minutes.

here is one from smallbear
Http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=1129

did you use a specific layout that incorporated the janglebox switch?

no two different boards joined at ground.

is that ribbon wire. if you where did you get it? BTW nice looking.

I like the Cars themed logo!

very good eye  it is in fact a photoshoped cars logo

I'm highly intrigued by the addition of the blend control and wonder if it's something I could add to my MXR Dyna Comp as a mod...

check out the barber tone press. as I understand it (keep in mind my understanding is limited) the barber is a Ross comp clone with a blend knob

What do you change for the janglebox mod?  I have a Ross compressor that I have not boxed up yet.  I might try it out. 

lifts the .001uf cap parallel to the 150k resistor at the output of the 3080