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Looks really coo! For centering, the best I've come up with is to leave the pedal outline in the etch file at first. Use it to etch the pedal outline on a sacrificial piece of cheap acrylic/plastic that you can keep in place on the bed (either because the piece is heavy or it is taped/clamped down. Then place the enclosure in the outline (secure if needed) and raise the laser height to accommodate. Remove the pedal outline from the file and etch for real. It's kind of a pain but its the best I've found for centering.

Another tip I found is if the tip also has a blower (or you have added a fan) then change to etching procedure to etch where the air stream isn't blowing the etchings back on to where you are etching. Comes out a lot cleaner since the hot powder coat is really sticky. My software lets me change the origin point for the etching pattern.

Very cool! Is the voicing board worth it? I've got one of the main boards in the pile...

I guess some of the issues I'm thinking of are: with the fuzz kit is he tailoring the resistor values to those specific transistors? With the Big Muff, where could I find a pcb with bigger part footprints. I guess I could etch my own...

Just curious if anyone has bought one of his pedal parts sets. They are on the pricey side but I'm tempted to try them. He claims to test the parts and guarantee they are in tolerance limits. Click the fuzz and booster kits in the side column.

https://www.ebay.com/str/whazzgroover

I should say I bought his 1176 kit and the parts look legit.

Despite that, though, it is one of my top three delays and I've gigged with it several times with no issues

Looks very cool! Are all the pots/switches board mounted on this one? The wiring for version 1 was an adventure

Very cool. Were the tube legs long enough to run those leads to the board without jumpers?

OK, so I traced down the siren to the delay pot:

edited with new info:
Replaced that and it's quiet. Now my 4047 pin 1 reads 0V and pins 2 and 10 read -15.2. Voltages seem fine on the 4047 socket if the IC is removed. So does the delay pot (-15.2V). I get delay on pin 3 of the bbd but it is very weak. Have to find the next issue

I wonder if I have a wrong Cap value in there that is bringing the clock down into audible noise. Will check in the morning

The problem evolves. I replaced all of the caps around the delay pot, and now I can tell that the mod circuit is working, but there is very loud constant audio from that area. If I try to bias pin three on IC six, it is an incredibly loud solid audio tone. The pitch is controlled by the mod pot. If I even get the audio probe near those caps, I can pick up the audio. I've since replace those caps with another round of new ones, and replaced ICs 8 and 9 but the problem remains. Any thoughts?

Thanks Dan,

I switched out the mod pot and still no luck. I can hear the tiniest hint of mod if I let things ring for a while. I get no mod at the delay time pot. Shouldn't this be where it has its effect on the sound? maybe that cap network there is my problem.

Hi Thomas,

Pin 1 isn't grounded, but does read 0V. It does this on my Total Recall taht works as well. Pin 7 fluctuates between -6.9 to -8.1V.

I keep getting a weird reading on pin 3 of the mod pot. Mainly its 0 but if I press harder I get -7ish

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Hi all,

My Total recall doesn't modulate. I get echoes and it biases properly. I get varying voltages in the modulation clock section, but no mod. The only voltage that seems odd is pin 1 IC9, whcih reads 0 when it should be varying.

Things I've checked/tried:
Verified resistor color codes in the mod section
swapped out the 4558 (IC9), 4047, and both BBDs for known working ones
Replaced the mod pot
checked the mod switch (works electrically but has no effect on circuit)
no continuity across caps in that section
compared resistor voltage drops with a working Total recall
Removed IC9 socket
diode seems to be electrically sound
reflowed all joints in that section
Cleaned back of board with flux remover

Looking for more ideas.

Thanks,

Marty