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Yes I did about the same thing except i went 8n 13n and 18n on the first sweep cap. I found that the 1.5k sounds good at 1.7k more mids . I also put 5 inductors in mine. I like the joe gagon tone tank inductor and the whipple halo. you can get a couple tropical fish 220n for the sweep cap and it will warm it up some to .if you want more gain lower the 470 ohm to 330 for more gain. you should check our geofex article on the wah its everything you want to know 80 percent of the circuit is disected for each value change.I got  A FEVER AND THE ONLY PRESCRIPTION IS MORE WAH WAH

definitely in the lfo section. Did you use a 2n5088 for q13. i did originally and switched to an mpsa13 gave me more speed. it is a lot more gain so you will have to re bias the bulb.

my pulsing led was not pulsing it was running really hot 15 volts. i changed the q15 2n5087 transistor and it works. if you had the wrong parts you may have bombed that transistor.check c22 as well . good luck.the small bear ldrs hi low dark with the shield are better sounding than the nsl7532.i just put this up against a mojo vibe and a dunlup univibe the really good polished metal one with seperate foot controller. blind tone test with three different buddy guitarists. we all picked the harbinger one . last week the mojovibe and dunlop tied the harbingor came in first. these are the best three univibes i have messed with way better than the shaky jimi and the voodoo  labs microvibe and the chicken salad. i have never heard a neovibe but i imaginge the harbingor would tie or win in my book

hello i just upgraded my ldrs to the top of the line from small bear. it made a noticable difference for the better over the nsl7532. however i dont know what happened by my speed led has stopped pulsing. idk what i did but i no longer get a pulsing led which i did have working. any ideas where to start?


i bombed a transistor Q15 i guess i shorted it while working on it. however it never has flashed. before 11 oclock. any way to get this to flash when speeds are before 11 oclock.

 wow small world. i just installed the small bear hi low dark with covers. it made a noticible difference i highly recommend this over the nsl 7532s. i did something to mess up my pulsing led. it just stays on no pulse itwas working any ideas?

i cut the rubber gromets. out on a wah for a friend. is the switch one of the blue ones?

overall pic zoomed out so we can see jacks switch ect. you can just jumper the middle to one side for now on the switches but get the switches. Tayda electronics  has them so does small bear electronics. tayda is cheaper. oh a little tip as well i see your resistors arent super neat. put them in and use masking tape to hold them down . the. when you flip the board to solder they stay noce and neat. not trying to criticize its a massive build i know . you can use a small peice of tape for at least ten components .what did you use for a light shield? i used a 3/4 inch copper plumbing end cap and cut it down so it would fit in a 1590bm

make sure you are grounded. its unboxed so you need to have a ground wire going to the output jack from the input jack for the bench. the box will ground it later. also your switches arent installed you need to do that as well. i went through this a week ago the jumper i used was bad.i had the right idea but a make shift jumper was broken under the electrical tape. i would also back those ldrs of a tad. the heat from the bulb will eventually damage them😄

Thanks Guys. I appreciate it.

hello its a stock harbingor  9v version with the lm7815. i noticed when i use the chorus side its in phase and has a lot more bass. when i switch to vibrato  you can hear it go out of phase and i lose low bass and mid . i thought it was supposed to be like that and thats why i liked the chorus side better. my friend is an amp builder and electrical engineer  explained i need to fix it. well how do i do that. ha ha thanks in advance .its this normal or did i make a mistake.

Hello I built my harbinger and finished a few weeks ago. I took my time drilling and painting the box. It was working perfectly and sounded amazing. I went to put my light shield on it permanently. Well its metal and Like an idiot i had it plugged in. I touched the metal across resistors R29  r 30 r35 R37 and C16 and man i got some sparks. So i tested it again and on or off i get a major hum like touching the end of the cord. No signal on or off. I went to check my lm7815 and i shorted it out. I had a spare and fixed that. I then switched lt1054 chips i had one in a charge pump for a tonebender i built. The lt1054 from the harbinger worked in the other charge pump. This is a 9v build with no mods.

  So then i started checking transistor voltage. I am getting up and down readings on the E and B of several transistors. They range from 5.5-9.5 volts five reading per second very fast fluctuations. I am stumped. I had it working and did a bozo move . The light bulb still pulses and the speed control works.On or off its loud hum period. I keep thinking i have a ground issue . I have voltage everywhere.I tried changing a couple of electrolytics and one or two 1 uf caps. I doubt a resistor is going to go bad on such low power. I wrote down the lt1054 readings . They were not perfect compared to another post but i am pretty sure the chip is good  because it does work in another charge pump. I replaced the lm7815 due to another bozo move. Is it normal for voltages on transistors to fluctuate like this in a univibe circuit???The speed knob does not have any effect on the voltage fluctuation . I will give  chip and transistor voltage readings and post a couple pictures later tonight when i get home . man i hate the idea of just replacing random parts.I figure i could buy another one build it and then have a benchmark to go off of. Please help I am very frustrated ha ha. Thanks Madbeaners for you time wisdom and knowledge.

Oh ya does anyone know why no matter how i print or the size of my images they are coming out way bigger now?? I am usually the guy people call to work on computers ect. I have little knowledge of printers though.

I Thank you both very much for the tips. I will try this over the weekend and let you know. My enclosures are as smooth as glass this time. I bought some micro sol and if they roll up i will apply some to the edges.I think i left the decals in the wtaer for to long the first couple of trys that probably deluted the glue on the edges. Man I really hope that this works I literally have dozens of hours in the artwork. I think I am going with the same art work and I will repaint these other enclosures white.I will also but the white decal paper soon. I prefer darker colors over white. I did just polish a couple and the look fine. I am glad you said I can use black ink over silver because from now on that will be how i do them once these 5 other boxes i have artwork for are done. Thanks again I appreciate all of your time knowledge and wisdom.Any other tips will be appreciated ROCK OUT ROLL ON!!!

Hello I have been building pedals for 2 months i have built over 10 already and have parts to build about 10 more ha ha. I spent over 20 hours doing artwork for a waterslide decal printed it clear coated it three times to be sure. So I printed a few soaked one for about 30 seconds. I tried to apply it and the outside edges rolled up. I tried another at 20 seconds same thing. How or what can I do to keep these down. The edges keep rolling up. Does micro sol or micro set work?? Any tips would be appreciatted/ I spent 10 on paper 110 on a printer and lots of time on artwork. Also now my main computer crashed and no matter how i size them the come out way bigger almosdt to the edge of my 4x6 sheets. I did unclick fit image icon. Thanks in advance . I got the fever ha ha . Oh and I tried doing a yellow border over a black pedal it was so trasparent you had to hold it an angle to even see it

Thanks guys for the kind words. I'll work up a detailed post about how I've been doing the faceplates. Right now I'm a bit rushed. My son just came home and I want to spend time with him. Priorities!

As far as the tagboard instructions on the vero. That changed my life. I copy and paste it into illustrator and shrink it down to the correct size and it takes all the confusion away. Vero suddenly became simple, except of course for the off board wiring. That is still of the devil.

Thanks again.

Ha ha irst off Fantastic job. Greaty idea for the vero as well. The offboard wiring takes me 2-3 hours on every pedal when doing vero. I try to go faster and it always seems to take longer than cutting drilling and populating the vero. Is it just me??? I do use 9v adapter and run shielded wire on inputs and outputs on all my pedals but man its a time eater that is for sure.