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Ya just finished mine. I am glad you posted this . It made me take a chance. I was pleasently suprised. No tone sucking bright clear vivid warble phase good Job Brian

I have only been building pedals for six weeks. I have built two Tonebenders and 4 Dam red roosters on stripboard. I have just finished my third sunking 2 klon this month. I couldnt have done it without some help from you fine people here and on another forum. I am 99 percent done with the Harbingor one build just waiting for the 100kc dual potentiomer ( I always forget something or can never get it all at one place ha ha).Brian shows a drain strainer on the BOM but I went to 6 hardware stores and never found one that small. So after buying and trying about  a  dozen items I found a perfect fit. You need to have a 1590bb Tall but it works perfectly. I bought a 3/4 inch copper pipe end cap. the circumference is absolutely perfect. I did grind about three sixteenths off of the end of it but its perfect. Plus its copper so you can solder wires directly to it and criss cross them to hold it on and still be able to change bulbs someday by just desoldering it. I did use foil tapeon the inside but i probably didnt need too it was really shinny anyway.O just wanted to share this info for future builds of people that were never happy with the ir current improv. Anyway thanks Madbeans for being the best in the business and to the fine people that make it what it is.



   Now how do these sound the schematic looks very similar to a real one. I have a mojovibe  on loan and its amazing my friend is letting me borrow it for a while . Can someone send me a sound bite? i couildnt find one demo of it on you tube. Thanks Madbeaners and I hope this helps someone out I promose if you get a 1590bb tall and take 3/16ths off the end and  it will be perfect . I might just polish the inside and take the foil tape out its really shinny im just afraid it will dull over time . i would love to at least hear some opinions i have over 6 hours on this project and need one part the suspense is killing me ha ha Thanks to all 

its working 100% thanks a lot for the tip and direction. These sound fantastic great job Brian

thanks . it was very late last night i got home an checked the switch wires. after several glances i didnt see anything. so i got the magnifying glass out still didnt see anything. i got the meter out and and i had a short between white and black like you said. i flipped it over and there was a very small peice of steel wool not visible to the naked eye. you couldnt see it because the insulation was touching and it was under t
them. ha ha. yes solved the led works like it should. now for the bad news my treble/tone control doesnt work.the voltage on lug 2 does go down by .03 just like on my first project.never had a problem like this before. is it possible that bridge could have fried the pot?... i am tempted to pull it and try a different one but i hate desoldering on these boards my desoldering tool doesnt do a good enough job and i am worried about lifting an eyelet. where should i start. once again all my voltages are within 10 percent even on the treble control.

oh ya i wired it for buffered sorry. its probably the switch your right. i made the wires really short and they could be touching or the 2pdt should be wired differently than a 3pdt I didnt use the outside left row on the first one

Thank you so much. on the first pedal i used a 3pdt and left one outside row completly empty. so on the new one i save a couple bucks and used a dpdt and wired it exactly like the other one since i didnt use a whole row should be the same right??? I was thinking if they are there is my problem. the funny thing is it was working with the battery and not the power jack till i switched the wires then i got power but no signal for either bat or dc jack. ill bet i twisted a wire causeing a bridge on the switch or the wiring should be different.however i did remove it several times and stuffing it back in i could have a short in the switching. I find it hard to believe i messed up on the pcb part. i triple checked and measure every part for resistance and capacitance before installing and really took my time no rush you know. Switch is where I will start. That makes me feel a lot better about the diodes because i havent plugged the first one in since i pulled it out to go off off while buiding this one. I think ill just put a 3pdt switch in first thing and wire it identical to the first pedal . The 2 dollar savings has cost me some time and trouble ha ha. you rock ill let you know what happens. thank you

Hello I am on my second sunking 2 build . The first one turned out great. The second one has issues. I finished it up late last night and have some serious issues. First off I plugged it in no battery and i got nothing. So i pulled it out and while on the bench hooked up a battery and it worked . I boxed it and everything seemed to be fine I only tested on off and the knobs seemed to be working. It was 1 am kids sleeping and I was very tired at the time. I discovered i had the 2 positive wires swapped on the dc jack . one the first one i used an inside nut for the jack and the second has an outside nut for the jack. The top positive is not the same on the two jacks. anyway


   so I swapped the two wires and i get power but now the led stays on at all times. I checked voltages on both boards and I have +/_- 10 percent with in range on both. So the chips seem to be with in the parameters as the working first board. I know get nothing at all for sound and the led stays on at all times. It was really late last night and i got excited when i found i just had the dc jack positive wires reversed.. What should I try next when i get home from work? What would caiuse the led to stay on all the time? I showed zero volts at d1 and d2 on both boards if i remember correctly. I will right down and post specifics sunday as i am super busy working the next two days 15 hour days. please and thank you for all your help. remember i have a working sunking 2 to check off of .

hello was burning the midnight oil building my new harginger one project last night. i got the caps c22 c23 c24 c25 c26 the bom of materials shows 17 1uf film caps. when i got to these the pcb shows poloraized caps. do i just ignore the pcb? i have both tantalums and electrolytics i can use but i want to be true to the design. these boards are very hard to desolder i have noticed so i sure dont want to instal the wrong parts. Anyone finished the new version yet?.. i am at a standstill on these . i will start on the transistors next while waiting . any tips would be appreciated. i went with the 9 v version charge pump since i ordered everything on the shopping list except a zener 15v ooops . thank you all. also anyone finished one of these and have a video i couldnt find anything on youtube for this build. how close to a real univibe is it?. thanks again my fellow diyers and i appreciate your time.

hello i am actually headed to Gateway electronics in st louis  to try and get one . I ordered every single thing but the zener ha ha. i think they charge 50 cents for zeners . ill be happy to pick you up one and mail it out today. just email me your name and address. to strassercaster@charter.net. anyone else need one?..I hate spending 5 bucks for shipping i hope they have one im in the same boat. ha ha.

thanks roba and pickdropper much appreciated

thanks i figured it out right after i posted soldering stuff at 3 am isnt ideAl . thank you very much i accidentally used an electrolytic so i was like where does this tantalum go oh boy feel stupid now ha ha. hey actually i read tantLums arent as reliable? also hpw much different woulf the tantalum sound than a electrolytic? if nothing than why even use a tantalum.thanks again.

i also have a question about the clip mod. which setup is for assymetrical clipping?

hello i am almost done building the sunking 2 . i think the 1uf tantalum goes in the c11 spot but i am not positive. can any one confirm this for me? also tantalums are polarized correct? if so which way does it go? if i put it in wrong will it still work or can i blow a chip? please and thank you in advance