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I mean don't get me wrong. I'm someplace in the middle. I love making pedals and I do enjoy the instant satisfaction of buying a pedal.  This one is very interesting to me. I dont think I've seen a pcb board made by anyone for it. So I was partly asking if there is and partly if this wonderfully knowledgeable community has used the production version and liked it or not.  And yeah for 100$ I'm thinking of trying it out. Just doing my typical research before I spend money.

I really dig the expression pedal integration in this line of pedals. Cool possibilities.

Anyone ever use this pedal (moog minifooger mf boost)? It's super intriguing. Thinking about buying one.  Anyone know of a clone? PCB floating around here under a name not obvious to me perhaps.

So I'm starting to use GIMP for editing artwork for more advanced etching and I'm curious your steps for changing the original photo from John Dyer Baizley to something acid friendly. Just some conversion to black and while with a color inverse?

Edit: GD autocorrect killed this post. I fixed it now. Thanks for replying Cody.

Tig bitties. 

JB weld those holes shut and re-drill on the side!

My albatross is a 5e3 amp build. I've just never had the motivation to finish it. I can't explain why either. It's about half way and I've totally lost interest in it. One day I will finish it...

Ive experienced some noise from a fender guitar before. I thought it was the circuit but was the guitar as well. Poor grounding. It's a squire that I have in the shop for testing.

Thanks guys. I went with the sharpie trick using a fine tip and got pretty good edges. I was surprised the sharpie resisted the ferric chloride. A little smudgy but not real bad. A new sharpie worked pretty good.  I heated the ferric chloride to about 95deg F which helped it etch much faster. Bottle said 135F but I got a little nervous with the stuff. I'm pretty new with it.  I actually spilled a little on an aluminum tray I use in my junk toaster oven for powder coating and it of course took off chewing it right up. Pft.  Anyway it worked well. I'll post some finished pics after I get it liquid tinned and envirotext covered.

Thanks to Cody for your etching guide and Stomptown for a link to it!!

Hey thanks guys. I tired the sharpie and it seems kinda smudgy to me. the coverage doesn't seem as 'hearty' for a lack of a better word. Maybe I should let it dry and layer the sharpie a little bit. I also need a fair bit of accuracy. I'm about to etch a face plate, couple letters didn't turn out ideal.

Anyone have a good way to do touch up on a toner transfer to copper clad? I got 99% of the toner to stick but a tiny spot got screwed up. I'd hate to re-due it. I was thinking some nail polish maybe? My wife said she as a nail polish pen that has pretty good accuracy. I seem to recall nail polish will resist the ferric chloride. Any ideas?

I do have one. Pm me if you are still interested.

I think I have one. Let me get back to you after work tonight.

Congrats!

https://youtu.be/0PwG69620WA

I know with the water clear ultrabright blues from Tayda I have tested CLR's up to 47k and still have them visibly bright.

Take a 100k pot and wire a leg of the LED to 1 and the lead of the battery to 2. Start it at 100k and sweep lower until its brightness is in the range you want, then probe your DMM on 1 and 2 to see the value ballpark you should look for.  (same trick works for other LEDs obviously, but you'd want a lower resistance for anything but blues and whites.)

Good idea. I'll have to try this out. Green is just impossible to see in the daylight. I don't care for red much either, I have a couple reds on my board and they are OK. 

I think I'm going to convert all my pedals to blue LEDs for indicators. I have a bunch of green and hell if I can tell when they are on or off when I gig outside. Anyone else have trouble seeing green (in the daylight that is) or am I green vision impaired?