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That brown electro cap sitting above the toggle switches in your pic.

That scares me a little 

Oh yeah definitely!

Had to go find out how to check the voltages and understand that its usually just the IC's and transistors that you measure? So the three IC's read:

IC1 (side not working)
1. 16.62v, 2. 16.53v, 3. 15.44v, 4. 15.92v, 5. 15.29v, 6. 15.36v, 7. 16.55v, 8. 17.19v

IC2
1. 15.42v, 2. 15.44v, 3. 14.06v, 4. 0v, 5. 15.29v, 6. 15.31v, 7. 15.26v, 8. 17.19v

IC3
1. 9.26v, 2. 5.91v, 3. 0v 4. -2.97v, 5. -3.04v, 6. 4.44v, 7. 5.74v, 8. 9.26v

I'm guessing the 0v and negative V readings are part of the issue - but not sure if that's normal as IC3 is the voltage doubler chip in the circuit. Nice to learn about voltage readings! I'm none the wiser, but might help you identify something.

thanks, Rich

Nope. You want to have a 0v reading at pin4 of both opamps (IC1 & IC2).
The opamp on the non functionning side isn't grounded at pin4. You have a ground issue, maybe a short between pin 4 and another pin or component.
Check your soldering, reflow gently everything, and inspect carefully pin4 of IC1.

Yeah, I'd definitely start by checking the soldering, it doesn't look quite alright to my eyes. Some lugs on the footswitch might not make contact.

Hey guys,
Just out of curiosity, what's the maximum delay time on the Sagan delay (I guess the 3rd head gives the longest delay)?

I've never really tried to time it out, but I looked at the equations for the PT2399 on Electric Druid's site to get a rough estimate. According to his formula, one PT2399 with a 50k time pot could pull about 600 ms. Since the three chips are pigggybacking off of each other, the 3rd PT could in theory pull of 1800 ms, but it will sound pretty gross and noisy. It wasn't really my goal to get those long times with this project.

Oh yeah, I would have no use for 1.8s of delay. Even 1s is way too long for me. Just curious what the maximum delay time was.

Does anybody know if the SMD version of the PT2399 is better quality or the same as the DIPs?

I've been building quite a few 2399 projects recently and it's a bummer when the 2399 has that static on the repeats. Was wondering if using a daughter board with the SMD version would be more reliable.

Good question, I don't have the answer but am really interested too.
2399s from Tayda are a nightmare. I stopped after a couple orders. But even with better places (Musikding or Uk-elec in Europe), it's still so random.

Hey guys,
Just out of curiosity, what's the maximum delay time on the Sagan delay (I guess the 3rd head gives the longest delay)?

I'm still not sure. 

Hahaha

Thanks Madbean!
I think the Dead Astronaut 4 heads delay uses it too. I'd have to check diysb.

Years later here I am asking myself the exact same question.

Your builds are always amazing. I like that you added the relay bypass circuitry directly to the pcb. Is it pic based by the way? I guess so.
And what company do you use to print your pcbs? I've had good experiences with Seeed and of course Osh park.

Anyways, great build as usual!

I actually tried out a 680pF in parallel with a 100pF in my pedalPCB Pauper (Prince of Tone) and it sounded really close. Adds a nice midrange emphasis and cuts down on noise but it wasn't the most in depth test (looper into the pedal while putting the cap in and out of circuit repeatedly).

Interesting, thanks, I'll keep that in mind!

This value for C3 (750p) still seems a bit odd to me, compared to the one usually found in this circuit (100p), so I wonder if Analogman is not playing with us geeks there...

Stunning! Love the faceplates

Oh yeah, and we added pads so that it can use a through-hole or an SMD 5457.
The through-hole ones are still out there but they're getting harder to find and a bit more costly!

That looks great! Good job!
Is IC2 the lfo? (with a jack that close there could be some audible ticking)

Thanks for pointing that out! I didn't even consider the proximity to the jack. I'm hoping it wont be an issue but we could always shove a few things around if necessary!

I had that issue in a Phasor II build with top jacks, I had to put a piece of shielded tape between the IC and the jack.
Hope you'll get it working correctly soon!

Oh yeah, and we added pads so that it can use a through-hole or an SMD 5457.
The through-hole ones are still out there but they're getting harder to find and a bit more costly!

That looks great! Good job!
Is IC2 the lfo? (with a jack that close there could be some audible ticking)

The Merman is amazing, but honestly, as a first build, a VFE pedal can be quite challenging!
Take your time, read all the documents (bypass board included ) and if you don't feel ready, maybe build a simple boost or simple overdrive first?
In any case, let us know how it goes!
Cheers!