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Nice job. Very clean!

First up, I finally boxed up my Super Trouper prototype that's been sitting in a box for 4 years. You can emulate either the Sunn Model T or Laney Super Troupe with a couple value changes. A friend had screen printed an enclosure for me (which had also been sitting in a box for a couple years) in a Sunn motif. Replaced the toggle switch with a footswitch to select between the 2 different channels. Came out mostly clean inside despite the extra offboard wiring.





Next up is the Lilliput. Much less time sitting in a box comparatively. The Lilliput is a clone of the SS/BS Mini. Used an old b-stock 125B in purple sparkle from PPP (that had sat in a box for ages to keep on theme here) and mod podged the triangle design on. Added soft touch relay bypass with an Incandenza board and then immediately velcro'd it to my pedal board.

Thanks guys!

That is brilliant!

High praise! Thanks Brian

Very cool! It looks great put together. What's going on with the off-board resistor?

Looks like the clr for the LED.

Yep. Didn't include the LED on the schematic, so I just wired the anode to the DC jack, then the cathode to the CLR and down to the switch to ground it.

A little while ago had the idea to do a simple circuit with the schematic on the silkscreen with the components paced on the corresponding symbol. Initially I just thought it would look cool, but I think it's a good tool for translating between schematic and pcb for beginners. It's just a Fuzz Face, but it worked well for the task. Some inspiration struck for graphics, so I boxed it up last night. MP38 germaniums and I fit it in a 1590B with top mounted jacks.

Great build and great looking layout too. I need to mess around more with choruses... chori?

That came out great! I shoulda made you a footswitch board so the boards match.

I'd be down.

I have this one and it's been fine for my purposes.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Rework-Station-Desoldering-Nozzles/dp/B08GC3HXCM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=hot+air+rework+station&qid=1656009190&s=hi&sprefix=hot+air+%2Ctools%2C71&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMjVMNTNYRVpPWENSJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDY0NTIyMkU5MDlRS1IzRzRKQSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzk4MTkzM0ZMTU04Q1ZOWVZaTCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Love it! You really nailed the aesthetic. I've been struggling with my OD tone lately, like you not really wanted to go the TS route. But I threw my old VooDoo Lab Sparkle Drive on my board and it just nailed what was in my head. Now I'm cloning it in a 125B, doing a custom board with relay bypass and UV print that's just delaying the process. Familiar huh? lol

Great looking build, man!

Thanks so much! Much easier with 3, 3PDTS than the extra relay non-sense. Appreciate it!

So I've been trying to figure out the switching scheme that was used on the original Way Huge Camel Toe. The CT is a 2-in-1 (Red Llama + Green Rhino), but the bypass switching is a little squirrelly. One footswitch turns it on with the other selecting between the two circuits, similar to the EQD Grey Channel. However, there's a toggle switch labeled "series" that makes it so the first footswitch turns on the Rhino side, with the second footswitch turning on/off the Llama side (Rhino into Llama). The new version does this switching electronically, but the original from the late 90s did it with 2, 3PDTs, a DPDT toggle, and a DPDT relay. Here's some gut shots:





Here's the schematic I worked up, but I haven't been able to get it to work. Was hoping a second+ pair of eyes over it might help. All the switches makes my head hurt after about 3 minutes. lol



If anyone has any input or is just a wizard at switching, any input would be appreciated.

That came out fantastic, John!

That painting is amazing. Really nails Prymachenko's aesthetic. Well done, inside and out!

That looks fantastic Matt!