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Finished this one up and sent it out earlier this week. It was a custom request from a friend of a friend.
He had the basic idea for the graphic so we worked it all out and I ordered the enclosure from Tayda using their UV printing service.
I forgot to round off the bottom corners but overall I think it turned out pretty great.
I was more concerned with giving the UV printing a try but this thing sounds amazingly huge and crushing. Definitely dooms pretty hard!

I did a few of these a while back using the Road Rage boards but never posted anything for them. I did all three faces of the puzzle box from the Hellraiser movies (but this one is my favorite). I printed the stickers and put them on plain black tins a little smaller than the ubiquitous Altoids tins and the like. I figured it might be useful on a pedalboard if you wanted to run a drive, dirt, etc at 18v but didn't already have a supply that provided for it.

i Don't have AI and am not really interested in getting it. I'm not a fan of the subscription based structure at all.
If I were using it a lot more than as the occasional hobbyist it might be worth it but I'm afraid that's just not the case for me.
So my question is, has anyone used their UV printing services and uploaded filed from other than AI software?
More specifically, has anyone used graphics created in Inkscape?
Any tips, tricks or pointers?

Just poking around and saw this listing. They probably won't last long either.
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/transistor-fet-fairchild-j201/

So I have a fairly decent Brother printer now but I'm looking for a replacement.
I'm looking for something that'll make nice water slide decals. The Brother works well most of the time but every now and then (especially when trying to print something with a lot of coverage) it'll stream and smear really bad. I've messed with the settings as much as I can but still have the occasional wasted sheet or two of decal paper.
Another issue is, Brother doesn't have drivers to support Google Chrome OS. I recently got my wife a Chromebook and would like something easier to use. There are options to connect the printer to a network and use Google cloud printing but.....
Why not just kill two birds right?
So, color laser printer recommendations based on good personal experience printing water slide decals. And it should support Chrome.......
Any ideas?

Does anyone have any helpful tips on how to indicate V-Scoring using KiCAD?
Or any other method for making a panel of smaller boards, like using the little break-away tabs with the little holes drilled in them?
I tried a quick Google search but didn't see anything right away. I'm sure I can go waaaay down the rabbit hole of reading really old posts and watching a bunch of videos until I find what I'm looking for. Hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction a little faster........
Maybe some of it will depend on the fab house too..? I've only ordered a couple of boards so far and I've used JLCPCB with pretty good results. But I'm willing to try others!

This isn't specifically an Eagle question so I'm not putting it there..... (hope that's okay)
Not sure if I'm missing something but I can't find the schematic symbol for a 3PDT switch. I have the Madbean libraries loaded for the component footprints but those are separate things. I can't seem to find a generic schematic symbol......
Can anyone help me out here? Seems like it should be a common enough part that I shouldn't have to create a new symbol to add to the library.

Built this one a little while ago for a guy who really wanted another without having to pay through the teeth for an original Boss.
I used the Corona PCB from Aion. There was a spot added to the board for a small ceramic cap in the feedback loop with the clipping diodes. The original OD-1 didn't have it and I wanted to have as many options as possible. I put the cap on a small piece of strip board with a 2-position DIP switch. Everything can be set to dead stock or the toggles and internal switches can be used for other options.

Finished these up a little while ago. Used the Quantum (Ibanez MT-10 Mostortion) boards from Aion.
The one without the clipping selector toggle was a request from a buddy who wanted one true to the original.
I tweaked the graphic and built another with the clipping selector.
It's a pretty cool sounding distortion and I really like the EQ section in this one!

Anybody ordered anything from them?
I found their site while searching for some aluminum enclosures. I've got everything I need to do the Epic Looper w/7 segment LED display. I ordered all the parts a few years ago but haven't gotten around to building it yet. Well, it's about damn time!
I wanted to use something a little bigger than the recommended 1032L enclosure so I can stuff a few extras in there.
This Hawk place has some really good prices (compared to Mouser) on these Hammond chassis boxes!
They have tons of stuff on their site. Not sure how much of it would apply to our typical needs/uses. I think I'll spend a little more time digging through their inventory to see if I can find any other gems....

https://www.hawkusa.com/manufacturers/hammond-mfg/enclosures/chassis/1444-18

I just placed an order for some of the random stuff I do trust from Tayda and noticed this in their "enclosures" category.
Looks like the offer expires on Feb 26th so I guess they're just testing the waters...? I'd be interested to see how their printing works out. Maybe I'll mock up a simple graphic and submit another order just to see how they look.
I also noticed they're offering custom drilling now too. Anybody had any experience with that? I typically don't mind doing my own drilling. I've always had pretty good results with a center punch, a step bit and a little patience. On a few occasions I've done multiples of the same build and spent literally hours on just the drilling. Would be nice to save some time and cramped hands!

Anybody know where I can find a schematic for the old Roto Tone 1 from Maxon?
The closest thing I could dig up was the 909 but that's not quite the same.

Inspired by my daughter's love of Sailor Moon, we've just finished a set of all ten 1590G projects including the discontinued Sawse. We built them in 1590B enclosures though. Definitely easier to work with and still a good fit for the control layouts.
I had the idea right after Brian released the "G" projects but we just finally got around to finishing them.
We're going to be debuting them at a local gamer/anime/comic con her in Jackson, MI on August 24th. We'll have a table set up in the Vendor's hall with some other game/anime inspired builds.
Just need to finish making up some cables and getting everything wired up!

There are a bunch of things I don't mind ordering from Tayda. I've never had any problems with their resistors and ordering the 1/4W metal films is super simple with their "easy ordering" page. I've started having a couple of PCBs made recently that are laid out for 1/8W resistors and thought "sure would be nice if they had that option for those too".
So I sent them a message via Facebook. They responded pretty fast and it looks like it'll be happening soon!

I want to try ordering some printed enclosures but haven't done it before. Can anyone share their process for getting graphics onto their templates and submitted for printing? I'll probably try messing with it tonight a little bit.
I do all of my graphics in Inkscape and have been printing decals on my own. I just want to make sure I'm getting it right before I spend a lot of money in trial and error.
Mammoth has a minimum order of 10 pieces to get the price break on the setup fees, PPP is 20......
PPP has far more options for powder coat colors. Mammoth will do custom colors but.....
Anyway, pros/cons to both and any tips on successfully submitting print templates would be greatly appreciated!

I've got a couple of boards that have pretty tight control layouts. I was thinking of using the toggles that have smooth shafts/bushings and don't use any nuts/washers. Kind of like what you might find on a lot of Electro Harmonix and other pedals. I'd like to save as much room as possible for labeling the controls without having to move the lettering too far away from the switch.
Does anyone know where I can find some of these that would work as direct replacements for the typical threaded shaft switches that everyone stocks?
I suppose I could just use the regular ones and leave off the nut and washer but that would look a bit...... unresolved.
Thanks!

Sooooo, I built one of the 2017 Tonebender boards from the "classics" section of the shop. When I got it done and fired it up, it was considerably quieter than I expected it to be. I'm pretty sure I had a bad trimpot because the voltage jumped back and forth like crazy with just minor adjustments. I also thought changing R8 for a higher value might increase output. I listed a bunch of different transistors to try out too.
Now, some time has passed and I got back around to it. I replaced the trimpots and removed R8 and put in sockets. I already had sockets in for the transistors.
So, trimpots are good and I was able to easily and accurately adjust bias.
I played around with R8 and settled on 1k5.
I tried a bunch of different transistors in various combinations.
Still, it seems like this thing should be louder overall than it is. I have to set the fuzz control pretty high and keep the volume control close to max just to be a bit above unity.
It's not even close to the first pedal I've built but it is my first Tonebender. Silicon or otherwise.
Is it just not that loud of a circuit?
Am I missing something?

Started this one a while back but was missing the LM13700's
It sat on the back burner for a few months but still finally got it wrapped up.
The decal ended up a bit to the right of center and the "n" of stun is a little bit under the washer for the toggle...... oh well, live and learn. It does sound great though!

Built this on an Aion Electronics board.
Turned out pretty great if I do say so myself!
Didn't get a gutshot but it's pretty clean. Two of the pots had to be wired off board to make the layout work. I wanted to go with a traditional theme with an obvious twist!

So I've built a few switching circuits that are available out there. I'm thinking about putting my own layout together. Before I order parts to start breadboarding I have a question.
The ones I've built use a 5V regulator and relays with 5V coils. There are similarly sized relays that have 9V coils. Why not just use the 9V relays and eliminate the regulator?
Most trannies or IC's that might be used in such circuits are rated for well known her 9V.
Why use a regulated 5V supply for these switching circuits?