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It very well could be. The wire may act as an antenna to amplify the clock signal (which is well within the audio spectrum). It's the pitfall of having a board designed in a small space with the jacks located where they are. I think for the next run I will just relocate the In/Out jacks to the top where the 9v connection is. Sorry if this caused frustration.

No need to apologize. Glad you figured it out, thanks for all you do.

I had the same issue with my Aquaboy, so I tried the solution above and it seems to have fixed the problem. I accidentally drilled my jack is as far up as it can go on the enclosure. Could it be just that the output wire connection point on the pcb is close to the pot itself?

Try increasing c3 until you get the sound you are looking for. Your current setup is cutting bass. You could try 100n, but you should experiment to see what works for you. You can use AMZ's RC filter calculator to dial in the corner frequency. Anything below the corner frequency will get cut.

http://www.muzique.com/schem/filter.htm

Thanks for sharing this, I'm completely blown away at the sloppy mess in there. Wow.

I recently ordered from them. The first time shipping took forever. The second time it took over a month and a half for them to even ship my order. I tried contacting them a few times and never got a response. I was about to contact pay pal, and then I got a shipping notification.  All in all the stuff was good, just sketchy customer service. I would say order at your own risk... it will probably work out.

Dude... sweet...

That looks awesome! You make me want to get a laser machine to do some etching. These your own PCBs? Where are you getting them made? The layout is really nice and the build is super clean. #pedalgoals 

Yeah!  Glad you got the problem resolved.

Have you tried some different ICs? Just thinking it could be your opamps could be bad.

Hey Everyone,

Before Madbean started supporting the Patreon projects on this forum, I emailed Peter asking what pots I could sub for the custom / hard to find "W" taper pots.  Figured I'll share it here to prevent questions from heading his way.

He said that as a general rule of thumb replacing a "W" taper with a "B" taper that is 10 times smaller value has the closest feel to the sweep. It obviously isn't the same, but it is close. For example, try using B100K in place of W1M and B20K (or B25K) in place of W200K.

Hey everyone,

I ordered the Dark Horse Mids board from Osh Park.  It's one of the designs that are unverified.  I built it up, and we can consider it verified.  It sounds pretty good.  I do have a question as the two caps that come off the Mids pot were unlabeled.  Played around with some values and I used mTR - 10n and mBA - 4.7n.  I tried some others and settled on these.  It works, though the sweep is pretty big.  I was wondering if anyone who has the schematics has any other ideas for some values.  I'm stabbing a bit blindly here.

I know there are a ton of people here who could probably point me in the right direction, but unfortunately I can't really share the schematic...

I have a Dragon Overdrive, but I could use a drill template.  I may have missed it with all the stuff that has been sent.  Brian, do you have one, or have a way to get one that could be shared here?  Or please correct me if I missed it somehow?

Thank you for providing Patreon support.

Unfortunately I'm not going to any help here. Not sure why your delay stops working. I did want to say I am having the same problem with the high pitches whine in bypass. At first I thought it was because of the road rage with the charge pump that I am using to run it at 15 volts. I had the road rage attached to the switch with some double sided tape and thought the charge pump might be interfering. But I tried removing it and putting it up against the enclosure, I still get the whine in bypass. You helped me verify that it is not the charge pump.

I havent had any time to really debug as I just noticed it too. I'm wondering if it could be a bad cap or something in the power filter? If you figure something out please update this thread. The bypass whine is pretty bad you you run a gain pedal infront of it. I'd love to get this fixed as it is a pretty sweet delay.

Yeah I agree with Alanp. You could test directly from the I and O pads. The jacks pass through to the switch, so you won't get signal passing through from just the jack inputs. Hope that makes sense.

What Function F(x) board is that in the background?