Messages

Need a bit help, please.
Thank you.

I use Front Panel for draw the templates, I draw all the component into the box.
Then I position on the box knobs, switches e bezel, for see how it looks just before I drill.
Sometime Inkscape help me, but I use it for graphic more than else.
While I drill I put pot, led, jacks into the box for some spacing test and see if them are centered, and go on.
I always well drilled.

Good! Thanks!

A question about the rotary switch I have to get, with 4 positions instead 3.
According the layout I have the input of the switch from the lug 1 of the Filter pot. On the board I have the connection fromthree poles of the rotary with the stripes for the three modes, getting silicons, leds and germaniums (+mosfet) clipping.
With the fourth position I would get a "no clipping" mode. Should I connect a fourth pole of the rotary switch with the ground stripe?

I'm back.
I have to wait a lot for order the rotary switch, and meanwhile, I'm looking the layout. Is this:

I want to add the Lube/Ruetz mod. I got I have to switch the R7 47R resistor with a 1k linear pot.
So I should to replace R7 with two wires connected to the two center poles of a DPDT switch.
So, one side I have to solder the 47R, to the other side I have to connect with a wire 1&2 lugs of the pot together on a pole (the one headed to the 2.2uF cap), and the lug 3 connected to the other pole (the one headed to the IC).
It's hard to explain, and I'm famous for complicate the things, but it should be ok.

Thanks for repling!

I saw someone to use a bit of tape and sticking it over the border inside the box.
You are lucky, you have a printer.
I draw at the computer all my templates for every single pedal taking the internal measures, then I sign the point and the diameter of the holes on the box with a pencil. I hit the center with a nail and I drill with a driller by hand, no support, using several drills and a step drill (4-6-8-10-12mm).
Sometimes I had to correct the holes while I was drilling it moving in the right center. For 5-7-9mm holes I use a tapered reamer.
I have to say I am good enough, now.
What method! Am I crazy?
Take all the time you need while you drill the boxes. Especially if you don't have professional tools.

Good luck.

Usually I buy this kind of pots:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/rotary-potentiometer/linear/1k-ohm-linear-taper-potentiometer-round-shaft-solder-lugs-3588.html
10.5mm shaft length + 4.5mm thread length = 15mm

So I'll buy the rotary switch with 15mm shaft length.

Thanks for the reasoning.

Sure!
This is the shaft lenght of 15mm:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/rotary-switch/rotary-switch-2-pole-4-position-alpha-sr2511-3583.html.

This 17mm:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/rotary-switch/rotary-switch-2-pole-4-position-alpha-sr2511.html.

This is the Specifications:

ALPHA 25mm (I think this is the base diameter)
15mm Shaft (This is the lenght, but just of the knurled part? Or the whole part included the thread?) My question.
6mm shaft diameter (This should be ok with the knobs of the regular pots)
Spline Shaft (No problem with it)
2 Pole (OK)
4 Position (OK)
Shorting (Make-Before-Break) (OK)
Solder Lugs (OK)

I don't want to risk to have a shaft too much long and set his knob higher than other.
Unfortunately I can't find the datasheet of this exact rotary switch.

This is my really last question.

Thanks.

Ok, Lubdar. I guess I can use a shorting 2P4T.

I have some doubts about the size of the shaft, 15mm or 17mm? I want it about the same of a normal potentiometer alpha with base diameter of 16mm. I assume I have to buy the 15mm shaft. But... just to be sure...

15mm or 17mm? This is the last info I need.

Thank you for the link. I visit Beavis Audio rarely since that have change address.

I'm sorry, but more answers I got, more question I have!

Ok the thing about shorting an non-shorting.

But on Tayda web site, where I have to buy, the rotary switch with positions setting, those black (plastic I assume), are non-shorting, while the shorting (with knurled metal shaft) could have not the lock washer to set the number of position. I could write to Tayda to be sure.

Or rather maybe, I can buy a 2 pole 4 position ignoring the second useless pole, it has metal shaft, it is shorting and with the right number of positions. It is a problem ignoring the second pole? Because this seems to me the easy and cheap solution. I'm messing myself with this rotary!

Well, thanks, again.
I used to place my order by Tayda, and seems to me the rotary switch you have linked should be this http://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/rotary-switch/rotary-switch-1-pole-12-position-alpha-sr2611f.html I can see it also from the datasheet, where I can read One Lockwasher Piece. So it could be that the right rotary switch.
It's a bit more expensive, but still less than toggle switch "Z", (if I have buy the rotary switch from Tayda).
Never mind how position it has, I can setting just 4, somehow.

Now I have to know what means "Non-Shorting (break-before-make)" and "Shorting (Make-Before-Break)".

I really wanted to use in this project a rotary switch in this project.
The "special" on-on-on switch I found is more expensive than regular. Have to be "Z". And more expensive even than any rotary switch I found.

So probably I have to buy again the right (or better) component.
Which rotary switch should be perfect for this project? I would like a 4 position and having a no clipping mode further the 3 modes included in the layout.
I'm looking this page: http://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/rotary-switch.html.
A good four posistion for this project should be a "ROTARY SWITCH 2 POLE 4 POSITION". Right?

I have some doubts about the size of the shaft, 15mm or 17mm? I want it about the same of a normal potentiometer alpha with base diameter of 16mm. I assume I have to buy the 15mm shaft. But... just to be sure...

Thanks!

Thanks for your help.
Problem solved, more or less.

I could decide to solder this 6 position rotary, that I have already, and use 4 position ignoring other 2 , but I don't like too much the idea. Or I could buy this kind of DPDT On/On/On http://www.sabrotone.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/DPDT_on_on_on.png and use it like this: http://www.sabrotone.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/DPDT_on_on_on_as_SP3T.png.

Too bad, I would had a rotary switch, most of my pedals have toggle switch.
I'll see.

Hi guys.
One of my next projects is The Rat, a kind of multi rat version.
I chose this:
http://www.sabrotone.com/?attachment_id=2127

So, that should be a sort of three version in one, cause the several clipping.
I wanted to use for the first time a rotary switch and I bought this 2P6T:
http://www.musikding.de/Rotary-switch-2P6T-open

I bought it for a more complex version, but then I change my mind for an easier version, in the first link.

My question:
1. Can I use a 2P6T rotary switch in that layout? I was thinking to use the three clipping modes and a fourth position for a no clipping mode.
2. I would like to know if that rotary switch has the chance to set only four positions. (I wish because it will be Very useful.)

Thank you!

To get this information you could search the several way to wiring the circuit with jacks, led... it is called off board wiring.

Look at General Guitar Gagdet wiring, or Tonepad. There are some. Of course on this web site, too, there's one.

You need a DC jack for an external power supply like a 9v Boss (most of pedal are negative ground).
A 5mm or 3mm LED, and a resistor for limiting current for this LED (if it isn't included on the board).
Jacks mono (or one of them stereo), a 3PDT footswitch.

Good research!