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Very nice. I really like the artwork.

Seems to be ok now.

my username on the front page currently shows up as haberdasher, which imputes a level of skill and expertise that I just do not possess. When I click through to my profile, it shows my info though.

Yeah, I'm getting Aleph Null, but it seems to be my account:

Or visually verify what's written on the capacitor? (in which case, it's 35V)

Yes, that is what I was wondering. 35v is plenty.

I've also realised initially mixed up the placement of Q1 and Q2.  I thought they were identical components, but obviously one is a PNP and the other a NPN.  If I'm very fortunate, maybe nothing else will have blown, and getting replacement transistors in the *correct* place might solve the issue.  I'll order a spare TL072 while I'm at it, in case I've fried the IC too.

Yeah, that makes a big difference. Those transistors are apples and oranges.

And: I looked at your pic and C5 and C6 look like they are physically over the top of some resistors, you might want to check that they are not touching those components. For example, is C5 touching R8 and R9? That's the first thing I'd check.

Just looked at the other pic and C5 doesn't look like it is touching R8 and R9 at all. Hmm.

The -25 and -40 are references to the amount of gain the transistor has. You can find it in the datasheet. I don't know what the other letters mean.

But, like djaaz said, it doesn't matter much here.

One thing to check, is the voltage rating on C5 and C6.

Also, you could pull both trannies and the IC and check voltages on the sockets. Post them here.

Also, this:

I would say in the meanwhile, check your wiring. Check the obvious thing that should not be connected to each other (no continuity between 9v & ground for instance). Make a visual inspection of the different components.

And: I looked at your pic and C5 and C6 look like they are physically over the top of some resistors, you might want to check that they are not touching those components. For example, is C5 touching R8 and R9? That's the first thing I'd check.

But I'm also getting a beep between ground and BI or board input.  Is that correct

Yeah, if it is in bypass, the input is grounded. It shouldn't be grounded when the pedal is engaged, though.


Madbean has a great explanation about footswitch wiring here:

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/MBP_FootswitchWiring.pdf

@NorthCoast: yes, the LED flashed once the first time i pushed the 3PDT switch.  i'll replace that resistor leg with the 2.2k ohm resistor now and see if i get anything, but i fear i've blown some components.

Ah, ok, if it flashed quickly, and then went off while there was still power to the circuit, then that flash was the LED getting too much current due to the lack of a current limiting resistor, which is what RLED is. The LED is blown and will need to be replaced.

Apologies for my newbie-ness

Not at all!

2) Also, on the 3PDT board, it looked like a white LED was supplied with the kit, so I used a resistor leg to short across the RLED pads.  But I notice now that I have one 2.2k resistor left over from the kit - should I have used that in the RLED spot?

Yeah, the LED needs a resistor. Did it ever light up?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPDjlRKO_Q8

Happy Birthday!! Thanks for being awesome!!

Try this circuit.

Connect "IN from LFO" to the output of the LFO. I'd need to see the layout or schematic to be more specific, but it would be the same place where the 100R resistor connects to the LFO.

R2 sets the LED brightness. You might need to go higher or lower than what is suggested.

The transistor can be any NPN such as 2n3904, 2n5088, etc.

Hi Luke!

Bass players Unite!

This thread needs some bass player love:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iN42uzNFVmQ

Did you include C101?

The 47uf cap is C100, which is 100uf on the schematic, but I don't see a 47uf C101.

Also, it looks like there might be two traces that are touching that shouldn't; I've circled them in yellow:

I'm guessing it's this one?