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seems like the up coming timelapse will have subdivisions, maybe brian can confirm? i believe the controller chip supports subdivisions.

smallbear electronics. very reliable source, slightly premium price.

i recently picked up a scarlette 6i6 mk2 and it's working pretty well so far even though it doesn't really have 6 analog i/o's (2 preamp ins, 2 line ins, 4 line outs, with spdif and headphones making up the difference). i had some issues getting the software to work which is used to configure it, but tech support advised me to only install to the default directory which worked.

i had a motu ultralite mk1 which i would say is a better interface (at roughly twice the cost), however i could not get my new pc to work with firewire. i had a lot of compatibility issues with my last computer (frequent bluescreens when turning it on or off), however i liked the more i/o and programmability of it (for example, all the on-board amps had digital gain controls). motu stuff all seems pretty quality and i would consider using more of it however they seem to be leaning towards favouring mac support recently. many of their newest interfaces are controllable with an app, which is mac os only.

i also had a maudio fast track ultra that was pretty good but i sold it when i got the ultralite.

my advice is to figure out how much i/o you need and see what's on the market, then narrow it down by price range. i wouldn't worry about getting usb 3.0 or thunderbolt support yet unless you specifically want a high-end interface. usb 2.0 in my experience seems to be adequate for most applications (not a pro or anything here).

the diamond halo chorus is semi-stereo but one channel is chorus, one channel is phase. one 1 speed control for both. i dont think it's ever been cloned tho (could be wrong).

haha awesome build. well done.

I always test every resistor, cap, diode and transistor. It doesn't add that much time and it's so much easier to solve the problem than after it's in-circuit.

i never do because i'm really lazy. how often would you say that you have averted a problem by doing this?

a simple but a time consuming way to do it would be to enter the stock values as per the six shooter build doc into the calculator and tweak the values until you get what you want (that's how I would do it).

in general, increasing any of R1, R2, C1 or C2 will lower the filter frequency. However, you should also take note of the filter Q, which is basically how "wide" the filter is. There is no correct value but it should be between maybe 2 to 4.

also looking at your chosen notch frequencies, you have a very wide gap between your lowest and next lowest frequency. This means you will have no control over the frequencies between say 80hz to 250hz.

it's hard to describe tone so it's difficult to tell whether it's working as intended or not without hearing it but the effect is a filter so it will inherently change the sound of your tone when on. it will also create a lot of high-end harmonics, especially when the rez control is turned up high, which could account for the harshness..

what's a topper?

teeheehee at the scat setting 

it's not so possible to rework it on a madbean board but the circuit itself might be able to be converted. in general, anything that's biased to VB should be biased at 0v (ground) and anything biased at ground should be biased at -16V.

disclaimer, i have not built this circuit but it seems like it's "tuned" for guitar levels since it starts to compress even at very low level signals (and the threshold is not adjustable). so increasing the headroom may not help you much.

ya that's probably the most reliable way to do it (more so that two in series imho). it needs a bit of a steady hand tho!

ya having a scope around is a huge deal, you can see and learn so much

Even when adding different value resistors between 1&2 and then 2&3 like the calculation suggests for "A" pots?

ya it will always affect the taper somewhat.

basically if the added resistors are too small compared to the pot, it will affect the taper "too much". so you can do this but you can only change the value by an order of magnitude at the most before the pot no longer behaves nicely.

most people don't use this on log-taper pots either presumably because it alters the taper.

neat build, i like the just-tall-enough caps on the outputs. are those little black disks fuses? i think i've seen that format before but are they resetable? or replace after trip?