Messages

Absolutely! Thanks

I was busy with school, so by the time I got around to ordering it, all the 125B were out of stock. I clearly see we bought them all, so I expect to see a lot of great builds coming up!

I've played with the microsoft surface and lenovo equivalent tablets. They're really damn nice, and seriously made me consider dropping my mac and getting one. I don't remember the specs off the top of my head, but it should be able to handle eagle/inkscape without issue. Video editing, on the other hand, heavily taxes the graphics chip (gpu), something these ultrathin computers skimp out on in favor of small size and longer battery life. Not to say it'd be impossible, perhaps just a bit laggier than you'd like.

great finish! how is it you get the perfect white letters on the black enclosures?

UV printing by mammoth electronics. There was a group buy for these enclosures last summer in conjunction with the release of the PCB. I believe you can find the template at Aion's site, so you just need to send it somewhere to get manufactured.

it probably hurt when a mixer that big fell in your lap. congrats on the sweet score, now lets see you put it to good use!

I can't wait to see this. I have mine sitting under a few inches of dust, but eventually I'll order the caps and solder them in. Until then, I'm excited to see more of these pedals floating around.

Did you use MN3007?
I rocked it, before boxing it, at 9v, and it works fine. I would like to add a road rage and box it up, but only if I know for sure it works.

Yup, thats what I'll be using

I am working on a pork barrel, the 2015 edition (pre rev 1). I built it a while ago at 15v but never got it working. I didn't know there were issues with it running above 9v, so I'll have to give that a shot this weekend and see if that works. Until then, I'd like to see what anyone else has to say.

I built this on stripboard a year ago, I don't remember for sure but I think I used a 100k pot and it was fine. I didn't notice anything weird and I didn't feel like it was missing any of its range. I never played an original to compare, so take what I say with a grain of salt. Luckily part of the fun of diy is that you get to experiment.

That's exactly what I'd do. Put the switching jacks between lug 3 of mix and lug 1 of tone.

Would you want it before or after the junction where that path splits off to R9? I thought you'd want the return loop to come back before it gets fed back into the brick, or is that situational dependent? I ask because I want to try and make my own shimmer, and for that effect at least, the octave up needs to be before the feedback loop (I think).

My first attempt to solder those little 5457 SMD chips onto the adapter boards ended in disaster - the SMD chip ended up stuck to the end of my soldering iron, and wouldn't come off.  I think I need to practice a bit more. 

I tin one pad, hold the chip to it, and heat the pad so the solder sticks. I'll add more solder to it, once the other legs have been safely soldered

What multimeter do you plan on getting? I too, only have a cheap thing that doesn't work all too well. I've been meaning to upgrade as well, but I can't tell what sets all the various models apart.

1. No, it doesn't matter which side of the resistor you lift. The dry signal doesn't care if it goes through the resistor or toggle switch first.
2. Yes a spst on/off switch is fine for this. You could also use a spdt and leave one of the outside lugs disconnected, or larger switches as long as the 2 contacts you choose connect.

disconnect one side of R9 from the pcb and run a wire from the now disconnected side of the resistor to one lug of the switch. Run a wire from the other lug on the switch to the now vacant PCB hole.

It sounds like it controls the delay time of the repeat? A chorus, if you don't know, delays the signal by a short time (something around 15-30msec if memory serves me well), and uses an LFO to wiggle the length of that time by a few msec longer or shorter to produce the chorus effect. It looks like the lag control sets how long that base time is, independent of the LFO. I'm not sure how to go about doing that on the CE-2, since that's analog, and I have no experience modifying/tinkering with BBD circuits. I'm sure it can be done, and maybe not even with too much difficulty (although don't quote me on that).