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The top row is D3 and D2, the next row is D4 and D5, and so on. You can see the schematic 2 diodes are stacked in series in the feedback loop, so the extra pads are provided to allow for this. If you only want 1 diode instead, connect it from the leftmost pad of D3 to the circular rightmost pad on the right.

I haven't built the 4:1 yet, nor have I built any other optical compressor, but I heard great things about it. I actually got one in a PIF that I'm looking forward to building. I built a few orange squeezers and ross based, which are very different but nice in their own ways. I'm also planning on building an engineer's thumb, which is supposed to be a bit quieter than the ross.

I'm glad things are taking a turn for the better! As for my PIF, like I said before, I'd be happy to cover the cost of shipping.

raul, I joke because I care

you truly are a transistor tickler, what with the application of germanium ointment to sensitive fuzzy areas.

Hahaha, and now I have a quote for my sig

Personally I like the line that, "Echo Man applied the Xvive MN3005 BBD chips", as if they're some kind of topical anesthetic you squeeze out of a tube.
Could you please apply some of that germanium transistors to my fuzz tone as well? Spread it on thick.

I'm learning about medical abbreviations in pharma school. I got this:

AAA top. QS germanium transistor Ung. Q4H PRN fuzz tone. NB: spread it on thick.

which means: Apply to the affected areas topically a sufficient quantity of germanium transistor ointment every 4 hours as needed for fuzz tone. Note well, don't hold back.

I did have to shift the board down a bit to account for the taller caps in my Cerulean.

also, I needed to swap the locations of 2 pots on the cerulean because I refuse to put volume to the left of gain.

Why?

Not sure. I guess I'm just a bit OCD like that. I started building on stripboard, so I had complete control over where each knob went. For no reason in particular I put gain on the left, volume on the right, and tone in the middle, to form a triangle. Since I don't etch/decal/label my enclosures, having one different from everything else I've made would be be difficult to use, as I'm sure force of habit would cause me to move the wrong one.

I just built and boxed a pair of aion's boards. I have a generic template I made a while ago since I normally top mount jacks. I found with aion's boards, I had to move his included drill template down a bit so that the jacks wouldn't push against anything tall like caps. It might have been easier if the board was mounted lower, but I kept the nuts on the toggle switches so there was enough room so the pots wouldn't short out (also, I needed to swap the locations of 2 pots on the cerulean because I refuse to put volume to the left of gain. I just eyeballed it and it worked fine. I probably could have moved the board a few mm closer to the jacks, but I didn't want to risk it and end up with an enclosure I couldn't use.

Well I got into pharmacy school, and just completed my first semester. I passed all my classes, which for a brief period I wasn't sure was gonna happen. In fact, my GPA was higher than it was in undergrad, cause I actually cared about my classes and didn't skip studying to drink and play guitar.

I met some wonderful new friends, including one girl I'm hoping to see a lot more of.

A few people have talked to me about either making them a pedal, or in the case of one friend who works at a small mom & pop guitar shop, wants me to make some things to sell.

Hopefully in these next fews days I'll be able to finish up a few projects as well. That'll make this year end on a higher note. But overall, as crappy as this year has been, its definitely had its upsides as well. Its good to remember that.

Hey gordo (or anyone else who completed this circuit), I've got another question.

I'm placing an order with aion today, so are there any drives/boosts you'd recommend that feed into this really well? I'm thinking either a honey bee or morning glory could be nice, although I don't know if this even needs it. Still, when buying PCBs its always a bit too tempting to just add one more.

I have the flanger in the mail, I was trying to wait off as long as possible to order the delay as well, but I just need a ca3080 for a compressor and smallbear ran out. I'll be placing an order for it quite shortly. I can't wait to try it out, or at the very least hear some demos!

Where did you guys get your caps/diodes? Normally for builds I go through tayda because I don't know if I'll like them too much, but for this one I'm going straight to mouser for everything other than resistors.

I was originally going to use vero, but when I saw that header connector I thought it might be a better idea. But I think I'll listen to you and go for vero anyway, which works well cause I won't need to wait for another part.

So I'm finally building a reverb, specifically the rub a dub deluxe with the belton 3h using vero. It has a bunch of annoying connections to both sides of the board as well as the dual gang pot. I don't want to end up with a rats nest of wires soldered onto it, so I was looking for a more elegant solution. Would something like this housing connector work? That way I could organize all the wires coming off it, and simply plug it into the brick.

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/wafer-housing-crimp-terminal/housing-connector-2-54mm-10-pins.html

Thanks for the notes Gordo! I've been wanting to do this one since I got my hands on the PCB, but I haven't had the time yet. Now that the semester is almost over, I'll be able to sit down with my soldering iron once again. Although I have a few circuits I'll need to finish before I can attempt this, which is probably good to get my technique back up to snuff.

What power amp would you suggest pairing this with? I was going to get a tiny giant, but perhaps something else would work better? I figure since you made two you'd probably be able to point me in the right direction.