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I guess the Buzzbox is basically a Grunge and a Blue Box with a mix control?  It would be a nice project to trace and figure out.

Updating with an audio clip of my NE5534 build. I can really push the fuzz and the clipping combinations allow me a variety of tones.

[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/user-562468024/alexsez-vfe-alpha-dog-glass-20170727[/soundcloud]

I like the mosfet setting on my Pharaoh Supreme clone.  I'm going to try the Top Fuel soon, as Ralfg mentioned.

Repeating what's  already been said, this reminded me of a recent TGP thread where a Pro Co rep responded:
"On the Deucetone we also have a no diode setting which we call the clean rat, although it's not anywhere close to clean."

https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/which-rat-mod-is-this.1806107/

I don't see it mentioned in the pdf, but swapping the LM308 for an NE5534 gives you the "Glass" version of the Alpha Dog.  This has more head room and less of that classic Rat "squish".  I only did this because I already have a Rat and wanted to try something different.

I didn't use the kit, but a strip board layout, so I don't have the cool clipping pots.  Even with both soft/hard clipping sections wired to on/off/on switches, I'm able to get a wide variety of tones - from  amazingly smooth overdrive to sputtery fuzz.

Here's one of their "lime green" ones. It's actually a little yellower and not as "aqua" as it shows up on the photo. It will be a while before I can report any chips or scratches, but its finish is even and without any irregularities.

That would be a cool build.  It should be easy enough based on the product description. The tone knob is replaced with 4 controls: a 3 knob Marshall tone stack, and volume knob (recovery stage maybe?).  The second footswitch engages the EQ.

I was going to recommend the Woolly Mammoth, which is basically the Mastotron without bass cut switch or pre gain knob.

I built the Flare with all the mods, but ended up undoing them and going for normal Fat Fuzz Factory.  The body pot mod should offer a ton of low end.  Maybe your friend is perceiving a loss of low end that isn't there because of some higher end emphasis?  Replacing that pot with a 10uf I guess would work, though the usually heaviest mod I've seen is 2.2uf on a switch.  He would probably prefer something with a clean mix.

I'm curious about the GE transistor switch too; it's much closer to original Tone Bender mkii .

This is what I bought last month and the price is pretty good.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KESTER-24-6337-0027-WIRE-SOLDER-031-RA-ROSIN-SN63-PB37-66-FLUX-44-CORE-1-lb-NEW-/172525660363

same

Storyboardist, a member here, has an incredible blogsite with more layouts than you can shake a stick at.
http://effectslayouts.blogspot.co.uk/

Exactly, I've been using more and more off his site. They are great. Start with a boost, or something simple like that. I'm alternating my builds with this and stripboard.

Removing C25 & C35, like it shows in this PDF are the first things I would do.  It bypasses the gyrators boosting those " nasal mids"

Here are the mods from the Wampler book

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rzzzcfgizb4tsc0/MT2%20mods.pdf?dl=0