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General Questions / Re: AB Switch buzz/hum issue
« on: October 14, 2018, 04:15:26 PM »
HI NzCdog,

Thanks so much for this!  So to be clear...I need to  insert the electro cap in series between the 9V+ and the Resistor (that goes before the LEDs)? 

Also...any great suggestions for learning the electronics behind this.  I took a DC Theory class at a community college (got and A in the class), but I still don't fully understand all of this and don't really no where else to look.  Thanks again.  :)


General Questions / AB Switch buzz/hum issue
« on: October 13, 2018, 02:13:40 PM »
Hi Guitar Pedal Friends!

I built this AB pedal for a friend (hence his face on the pedal).  It works!  However, it adds some noise when powered by a 9 Volt adapter like a 1 spot.  When used with a battery it works fine with no noise.

The slight buzz/hum that is added isn't terrible, but I would love to get rid of it entirely so that my friend can actually use this with his power supply and not keep replacing batteries. 

1. Does anyone have any suggestions for fixing this issue?   
2. Would you have any comments on why buzzes like this happen?
3. Maybe how to prevent situations like this from happening for future builds?
4. All tips are welcome.  :)


SIDE NOTE:  Thank you so much for your time answering this question.  I really enjoy learning about this stuff, and the responses on this forum are extremely helpful for a noob like myself learning about electronics.  ...I just recently finished a successful Slow Loris Build, but I haven't boxed it yet.  I will post once I do.   Blessings.

General Questions / Re: Slow Loris - LM308 IC insertion? / Not using R10?
« on: September 25, 2018, 11:22:53 AM »
Thanks guys!  I appreciate the advice.  You are awesome. 

General Questions / Slow Loris - LM308 IC insertion? / Not using R10?
« on: September 22, 2018, 11:30:03 AM »
HI MadBean friends,
I am currently working on a Slow Loris Project. 
(Here's the Slow Loris PDF for easy reference):

I've been looking for the LM308 IC.  Th IC in this link from small bear is the only one I could find, however, it does not look like a normal IC.

1.  Does anyone know if this LM308 from smallbear will work? It does look similar to what was used in the example photo in the pdf, however, it also looks like something else was soldered underneath this
2.  If this LM308 from smallbear will work how then would I solder this into the PCB? Do I need an extra component?

Also, in reading the provided PDF, there is a comment about the R10 resistor; which recommends to leave R10 off the pcb all together. 
3. Has anyone had experience leaving R10 out?  (...and super noob question for complete clarity) If I leave R10 off, I would just solder the resistor pin holes for that resistor together via a wire correct? 

Thanks so much for taking the time.  I really appreciate it. 

@Zigcat   .....Sometimes transitions between songs need to be quick and it takes long enough to switch the instrument itself.  Plugging in and out can look unprofessional too, but mainly I am looking to make easy transitions.    :)

Thanks everyone for the feedback.  I really appreciate it. 


For shows I usually use 3 different instruments.  I have been using this Epiphone AB box to switch between two instruments...

It works great, but I would like to have more inputs so I don't have to unplug and replug the third instrument into my signal chain in the middle of a show (going through the same amp works well for what I am doing).  I am pretty sure I understand how to build one of these, but I don't  know which switch to buy in order to get the job done.  I figure I could use two 3pdts together to get this to work, but I really don't want to have to have 2 switches for this type of thing.  I can't find any info on switches that would allow me to toggle between 3 or more separate inputs to an output.  Would buying a 4pdt work? Or would anyone know what type of switch would allow me to switch between the 3 inputs?   (or even 4 inputs.  It would be awesome to have the option)

Thanks :)


I am somewhat embarrassed that this pedal is still not working, but I really want to get to the bottom of it so here I am again.  I don't have anyone to go to for electronics help outside of this forum so I might be posting a lot more for help in the future.  Thanks in advance to all the kind pedal building souls out there! 

I am getting no signal whatsoever. I have searched for solder bridges and scratched along the pcb to eliminate the thought of microscopic solder bridges.  I did have this pedal working at one point after desoldering D3 and flipping it around to match the picture on the  1590G pedal building Tutorial (the picture contradicts the polarity shown on the pcb):

Though it worked during that test, the next time I went to try the pedal the signal had once again disappeared.   

Right before this, in preparation to put the PCB inside the enclosure, I realized I needed to bend a few capacitors to get them to fit inside the 1590G.  These capacitors were C10 and C7.  Because my voltage readings from my IC were so weird on the pins 5, 6, and 7 I though that maybe I had jacked something up with the C7 Capacitor when bending it downward (can it really be that sensitive?).  I have since replaced but not soldered it in completely just in case I jacked it up.  Upon this last check I have noticed that all my poking and prodding at the PCB has lifted the metal circle pad in the C7 location. (possibly over heated :-[ )  ...Does this mean the PCB is ruined?  It's not completely lifted off the PCB and on the other side of PCB the metal circle is there which makes me think contact can still be made. 

So.....putting aside any of my mentioned thoughts and fears, I am not sure if my issue really lies in any of the things mentioned above.  Whether it be the C7 or D3 or possibly a solder bridge or just something else completely.  Any suggestions or advice of any kind is welcome and appreciated. 

Thank you so much for helping me trouble shoot this problem. 

My current IC voltage readings:

1: 3.99v
2:  4.12v
3: 3.29v
4: 0.1mv (sometimes 0, but fluctuates to 0.1mv mostly)
5: 54mv  (this one fluctuates.  I got a reading of 11.93mv earlier in my testing before it started to hover around 54mv)

6: 2.98V
7: 2.007V
8: 9.25V

Moar Schematic and build info:

My Pictures:  (This is after I had taken out the C7 and reinserted a new one with out soldering it in.  For testing I purposely put it in on the wrong side of the PCB.  Some pictures show the C7 and others just show the circle pad that has lifted a bit)

Hi everyone,

As a beginner I tried building the Moar pedal that is used in the tutorial on building 1590G enclosure pedals.  I posted a while back after being stumped when I could not get a signal.  Thanks to everyone who encouraged me to build a testing rig.  I did and I think I discovered my problem, but I am still partially unsure about it so I thought I would seek advice on the issue again. 

The MOAR PCB at the D3 diode indicates a certain polarity with the white strip correct?  From what I understand is that that white strip should indicate the cathode being soldered in that direction.  I did this and then went back and tried some other things and then went back and finally realized in the tutorial the pictures show that specific Diode to be turned around in the other direction. 

I was kind of excited to find this because this would be an easy fix.  I have not soldered it in yet, but with my testing rig the pedal does now in fact work! 

My question of course is this a mistake on the PCB?  I'm still learning to read schematics.  From what I can tell I think it is either a mistake or I am completely wrong about the issue and don't understand what the white line represents.  Haha.  So thank you  to all who read this and take the time to answer this question. 

(Use these links to find the D3)
Moar PDF (PCB and schematic):

Moar 1590G build Tutorial (pictures of assembled PCB):

Hi, I am looking for the most basic way to check your pedal before assembling it completely.

I tried to check my pedal build without a breadboard rig. However, all I got was buzz.  I am hoping I soldered everything right on the PCB and my mistake is just not completely understanding what connections need to be made in order to check the signal.  I first just tried connecting the input and output jacks along with the battery supply to the PCB.  Then I connected the guitar and got nothing but a sad sound buzz.  I then added a wire connecting the sleeves of the jack to the negative of the batter supply to see if that would help.  It did not.   

This probably sounds ridiculous to some of you.  I'm just trying to figure it out.  I really appreciate any advice you can give. 

Thanks!  I appreciate it. 

I am purchasing parts to build the mood ring, but I am very new to this.  Can anyone tell me if using a LM78L05 will work in place of a LM7805.  Looks like the main difference is that the recommended 7805 has 1 Amp and the 78L05 has 100mA's.  I am lost as to figure out if this will work or not or cause crazy problems. 

Thanks for any help you can give me. 

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