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Apparently, I did not seat the SG properly in its stand leading to this fiasco.

The Sparklehorn demo is a little meandering. I tried to cover all the ground I could, but with 8 knobs there's a lot of options.

The 3PRR wiring diagram showed the 9v wire going to the wrong tab on the DC jack (the battery tab). This has been fixed and the doc has been replaced on the Projects Page.

The End of Summer Sale will be over the Labor Day weekend. We'll start by Saturday afternoon and end on Tuesday afternoon (8.30 - 9.2). It will be a short sale, but long in discounts 

Just finished up my SH build and I realized that some people might want a little more delay output on their builds. With the stock value it's just a hair above unity. Sometimes it's good to have a bit more especially for slapback. If you want to increase the output of the delay Mix control, simply lower R18 from 12k to something like 6k8 or 8k2. A socket is appropriate.

Also, one thing I think I did not mention in the build doc: when you have the MIX control very high (3/4 up to full) you may hear some delay under the OD even when it is bypassed. There is actually no way to get around this in this "tails" type application. The OD section feeds through the MIX and FEEDBACK controls in reverse which then goes through the delay about back out. It's really not that bothersome, but please understand this is a consequence of this particular design and it only happens when the MIX is very high.

I pulled a real boner here. I linked the wrong DPDT switch in the build doc. The one linked is not the correct size.

The correct switch should be this one: http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1392

I am really sorry for the mistake. Hopefully I did not screw too many people up. I will update the project doc right away.

Brian

Here's the completed Moodring build. I am really happy with the effect. I am less happy with sanding off the edges of the artwork and not being more careful with where I put the jacks. But, it fits and it works...so good enough for DIY.

I did wire this one up as non-true-bypass. Switching the reverb on and off is completely silent and the reverb decays over the clean signal when turned off. Just what I wanted. One thing I did not think all the way through is that in NTB wiring, the dry kill..uhh...kills your signal completely! This just means you cannot use the dry kill on the fly. Not an issue with true bypass wiring though. Maybe I can think of a solution for that using a DPDT with the dry kill. I'll see.

I had the 9v wire connected to the wrong lug on the DC Jack in the wiring diagram. This has been corrected and the PDF has been re-uploaded.

Kingslayer II, Sunking II, Chunk Chunk, Zero Point DD, and Stage Fright are available for order again.

The Sparklehorn and Moodring release will be delayed a few more days. I ran into a potential issue on the Sparklehorn design and now I want to go over both PCBs to make sure they are 100% before releasing them.

Upon further review (IOW, building up a production board this weekend after doing 2-3 different prototypes before the release) the Thick switch seems to be pretty useless for guitar. Looks like it was a case of me hearing something that wasn't really there. So, for guitar players I recommend just leaving this off for future builds. Bass players may find some use for it if you are going to be switching between guitar and bass regularly. In that case, I would go with an even higher value for the extra cap, say 330n instead of 150n. For guitar, it just doesn't warrant the two extra parts as is. The good news is that the Sunking is a lot easier to fit in a 1590BB with only two switches vs. three! I'll add this note to the build doc this week.

BTW: I tried LEDs for the alternate clipping diodes with a 15n cap in parallel and it sounds pretty huge. Very aggressive, and I like it a lot.

I also built up the new BYOC Silver Pony and I will be doing a comparison between the two. The SP is a somewhat different flavor of klone which isn't surprising because it uses a few different values. I like it a lot, too. I don't think I have a preference between the two sets of values (the SP values coming from a Silver era Klon) but I did do one mod to my Sunking: I lowered R9 to 470R for a bit more gain. In the SP this value is 47R, meaning it will have even more gain. But, I was happy with 470R.

For around 15-20 minutes yesterday the forum went down. I was able to get it repaired pretty quickly, but at least one thread got corrupted. If any thread starters from yesterday find a problem, just start a new thread. I don't think I will be able to resuscitate any bad ones. This should only pertain to posts that were made right when the forum went down.

The Afterlife, Egghead, Hipster, Mudbunny, Rangemaster, Tonebender, and 8Ball PCBs are now in stock. The Tonebender and 8Ball are new projects. The others have all been updated to their respective "2014" versions.

I'll get the Tonebender doc up tomorrow, as well as pics of the new PCBs. All the other docs are up.

There are several PCBs on sale, too.

Since I'm getting emails everyday now, multiple times a day, here are the projected release dates for the rest of the summer. The July and August releases are firm (+/- a couple days). The Sept. releases may change a bit depending, but that's pretty close to what it will be. Possibly I will be able to get one of the other EHX projects in Sept.

8Ball, Afterlife, Egghead, Hipster, Mudbunny, Rangemaster, Tonebender: July 28th
Chunk Chunk, Zero Point DD, Kingslayer II, Stage Fright, Moodring, Sparklehorn, Sunking II: August 1st-ish.
Double Flush, FatPants, Karate Shop, Cave Dweller, Dirtbag 3, ZPSDX2 and Snow Day: early Sept.

I'm starting a build thread for my Doubel Ganger. My board is mostly populated but not finished yet. I've decided not to board mount any of the pots or switches to try a different layout. Also, I'm going to do toggles for the LFO Mode and Phase / Vib switch so there is only one footswitch. Lastly, I think I will ditch the spectral bypass option since I don't see needing it.

Here is my scratch artwork so far. I'm thinking an enclosure etch for this. The Genghis image is actually clipart, I think. I filled in areas with black to give it more contrast and pop a bit. I'm digging the look of this.

https://charlesrthompson.wordpress.com/tag/pedalboard/

Some thoughts on things I am seeing happening.

I see many people plunging into the the challenge of designing their on projects, PCBs, and small business models. I want to let you guys know that I am extremely proud to see this community take that step. I honestly feel that this is a group of colleagues, not customers. We are all in a tiny endeavor together that isn't about our own personal egos, agendas or profit motives. I feel like there is a thriving community of folks here that are willing to donate their time and expertise for the greater good. And, that is important.

Let me share with you a small nugget of my personal philosophy with you. When I was 17 y.o. entering Berklee College of Music we had a series of commencement lectures. One of these was particularly inspiring. A lecturer asked for volunteers to come up to the stage and asked them, "Why music? What is it about music that inspires you?". One particular brave young rocker came upstage and said; "Music is a craft. It has to be be practiced and perfected. I don't care if it takes my whole life...it's what matters to me most".

This has informed so much of my life. It seems silly but it's true. One little moment in time that was so inconsequential yet inspiring. My hope is that you guys will take some small nugget of inspiration, wherever you may find it, and help you in whatever way it can. Whether you find it it music, in pedal building, art, science, philosophy,  or whatever. Take what is meaningful to you and own it. It's yours. No one...nothing, can ever take that away from you.

This topic has been moved to Amp Building.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=15642.0

Interested to get some feedback here. What if I were to move the next Dirtbag to a 4x BBD rather than a 2x BBD? So, you could use (4) MN3005 (for 1 second delay), or (4) MN3008 or BL3208 (for 550ms delay)? Would this be worth waiting just a bit longer for the project? It would move the project into probably August.

What do you think?

Here is a catch-all thread for our many, many members to post their best and most favorite builds. This thread is like the pictures thread over at DIYSB: post completed builds only. General WIP, half-done stuff and full on build reports should go in their own threads. This thread is for members to look through and see the amazing talent we have here in this community.

I'm a few days behind on orders which I will be catching up on today and tomorrow. My apologies to those who are waiting--I had a bout of anemia this week which makes it just about impossible to do anything. Thankfully, it is a rare thing for me but it pretty much flattens my ass while it's going on. But, the worst is over so I'll be back on top of everything ASAP.