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would it be just as easy to draw a line in the Vscore layer

Fab houses charge more for vscoring, if memory serves.

Elecrow does not, unless you mix more than one PCB design.

It seems the Mouser links in the doc have changed.

1P8T: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/SR1712F-0108-20F0A-N9-N-027?qs=%2fha2pyFadujnDTl3ZJPrT47%2fXDzyW0YSZfqiLV4Qc7I%3d
2P4T: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/SR1712F-0204-20F0A-N9-N-027?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhcoRt%252bBD03V%252bNqlrgc%252b%2fd6HNoZo2EmUS6M1ji6Ykm%2fIw%3d%3d

Absolutely.

I generally use a hole with 27 mil diameter and arrange them just as you see.

Couple things to watch out for:
- Make sure there is enough space between the holes but not too much.
- Make sure your dimension border isn't too close to the outside holes.
- Extra credit: if using ground planes on top or bottom, draw out rectangles in the bRestrict and tRestrict layers that cover just the bridge between the two PCBs. This eliminates the copper pour from the bridge. Why do this? To prevent any damage to the pour when snapping the two boards apart.

Any clue for the giveaways?

This is the only hint I will give.

Not the Microsynth. It's a giveaway. AllsImsayin.

Exactly. Use either 1/2W or 1W for the 10R or just go up to 100R 1/4W. It's pulling too much current for the 10R 1/4W which is causing it to overheat. The 100R also gives you a low pass with the 100uF and 100n to help roll off any PS noise over 15Hz.

I had mid-July listed for the VFE/Uber Tuber releases but it will be towards the end of the 1st week of August, I believe. This is due to something special that will happen with the release. So, it should be

Standout
Pinball
Dragon
Distortion 3
mbp Uber Tuber
and, special surprise!

Finally, something fun after several months!

That's pretty typical of a lot of analog phasers, I've found. As long as you don't have excessive noise being amplified through the effect I would just accept that as normal.

Just curious... I don't see the following in the project list above. What's the deal... those boards weren't made in larger batches like the others? You think they will eventually be made available? Or is it the kinda thing that once the boards he sent are gone then that's it?

Rocket EQ
Mini Mu
Woodchipper
Fuzz Duo
Yodeler
Ice Scream
Dragon Hound
RUP

I don't have any of those boards. It is possible for me to manufacture and sell them through MBP per our agreement but I don't expect that will happen in the next few months. There are still 4 more VFE boards to be released, plus the Dragon, Pinball and Standout (which are coming next week). I expect all this will be done by the end of Sept. so perhaps after that I can start looking at some of the other ones.

I haven't discussed the Klein Bottle with Peter at all and I don't expect he has an impending need to pawn off the PCBs. But, that might change after his production run is finished. I'll let you guys know if it comes up.

Not really sure what you mean by "negative" and "positive" pads, but if you want to eliminate the switch simply jumper S1_1 and S1_2 together. You can also omit R61, LED and S2!

The response time varies with the device part #. For example, a vactrol designed for a really fast response time is the VTL5C9 (I forget exactly what it is). The NSL-32 and H11F1 do as well, with the added bonus of ridiculously low on resistance (on the order of a few hundred Ohms).

What I would try first is this (schem below). This is the depth pot setup from the Tremulus Lune. With this your LED actually doesn't go dark (exactly what we want): as you turn it down the pulsing stops and it stays a constant brightness. You may have to modify some values here to make it work but it would be a good starting point. There are two places to try the photocell connection - across the delay pot and stopper resistor or just the stopper resistor. They'll produce different ranges so you'll have to see what works best for you. Again, this is guesswork at this point.

The reason that's happening is because the dark resistance of the photocell is too high for the application here. The ideal resistance range should be very small - typically 1k through 50k (even smaller for more musical results). The photocell could have a dark resistance of 1M or even up to 10M. IOW, probably only 5% of that range is useful here and that's why you have such limited control.

EHX says the CV output range is 2v to 9v on its website. I'd take some voltage measurements on the CV and see if that's true (i.e. measure the voltage output versus slider position). It's possible you could modify it well enough to limit the minimum darkness of the LED driver in the LDR so it's limited to a more useful range.