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Both LEDs will light when playing. I suppose you could try other colors of LED but red diffused is very common for that type of clipping and sound very good.

The Depth knob should not change the brightness of the LED.

But, you've narrowed the problem area. It's most likely somewhere in the highlighted area below. What the problem actually is...hard to say. I'd look closely at the soldering in that area. Reflow everything, look for any small solder blobs, etc.

One thing to try - temporarily jumper pins 3 and 2 of the depth knob (just wrap some wire around them so they are connected). That will bypass the depth knob...might help identify the problem. And, make sure the Starve control is all the way down when testing.

I don't see anything obviously wrong, either. Except that 4k7 - I can't make out the color bands. Is it yellow-purple-black-brown-brown? The 4th band looks black in the pic. But, I think it's my eyes playing tricks (and since your voltage is right it probably is right).


Are you getting just plain audio out (no trem effect) or no audio out at all?

Correction #2: the voltage on the collector of T1 (2n5088 at the output) should be around 9.5, not 17v. Doc has been updated.

Actually, that's correct. I just pulled mine out and re-checked and I wrote down the wrong voltage for the collector. I re-measured that transistor and I have:
C - 9.51
B - 3.43
E - 2.82

Everything is so close together I probably touched the lead to something else when I took the initial voltages and just did not pay attention to the huge discrepancy between the base and collector.

So, your voltages being correct, perhaps there is something else. A couple of pics of the top of the build would help.

PS- I've updated the doc with the corrected voltages.

I never buy full priced AAA games but Far Cry 5 was just too tempting. I'm in it for the glitches and random bear attacks.

LOL that video sounds like Mitch Hedberg

I used to transfer ink images to poly-based finishes with water. I still do but I used to, too.

The Dragon is going into the box of fail as well.  Has ANYONE had any luck getting one of these turds together?  I get effect although some settings produce a gated/glitchy decay.  It has the same problem as the Tiger...bypass LED works but bypass doesn't.  Relay clicked once and seems locked in effect mode.  Maybe the chips are bad?

I think I need to step away from these boards for a while and come back some day.

If you want to start a dedicated thread for your builds and upload some pics I'd be happy to take a look at it.

R30 is the resistor to check. Make sure you have used a 22k there (not 2k2 or something else). You can socket that resistor and try a higher value, too, like 33k or 47k.

You can always use a breadboard - put wires in the pads for the pots, wires on the pots you are testing and then connect them via the BB. Or, if you have some solder leg pots, single inline sockets can be soldered to them to insert wires as a faux "quick connect".

I've got Fender Noiseless in mine...they are fine. Not mind blowing but pretty good.

10uF should be fine to sub except for C23. That needs to be 1uF.

The Blueprint is now available in the store. This is a limited release for now (only 15 units) until I order some more micro-controllers. Turns out I really underestimated the pick-up sales with the last batch of releases. But, that's a good problem to have and since those sales are dying down let's just run this thing aground! If these sell out quickly I will have more in a couple of weeks (all the sales form the Blueprint are going toward purchasing an even larger batch micro-controllers).

Just to add a bit: the second position on the Lace (bridge and middle) are freaking magic in my guitar. I originally had the gold Lace and it doesn't even compare.

Anyway, I don't want to advocate too much for the Lace because they are an acquired taste. There are so many options out there for traditional pickups it's mind boggling.

As described in the build doc, the Stutr does not have a depth control. What you are calling depth is actually a duty cycle control which changes the distances between the peaks and valleys of the trem effect (IOW, it makes the rise and fall of the LED asymmetrical as you turn the Sway knob). So, the short answer is no. However, you could add a depth control with some off-board wiring. I did not include this because of the space limitation of the 1590G design.

If you want to try and wire in a Depth control this is how you would do it: remove R12 from the PCB and hook it up to a 1kB Pot and 330R resistor as shown below.