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I'm in the US and I also see a price of 180$ . Odd.

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/TrioPedal

Oh man, WHY YOU GOTTA POST THIS. I went ahead and bought the Trio for $50. I figure it might help with some project demos so why not. Thanks for the heads up!

The annual BOTY contest and Holiday PIF Party will both start on Friday. We'll have two new categories on the forum for each thing so start thinking about what you want to enter in the contest and if you have stuff to give away. Obviously, I will be giving several things away so be on the lookout!

The new switching boards and micro-controllers are in. So, all the VFE projects will be going back in stock. Also, the Old School Tremolo and White Horse compressor will be releasing at the same time. The Dark Horse, too, if I can figure out the issue on my build (pretty sure I know what I did wrong). This will all probably happen Friday.

Cool, glad you like it! The Fat Bastard was maybe the 5th or 6th pedal I built way back when. I gave it to a buddy of mine but I should really build another one. One thing to try - the Orman Mosfet Boost and Fat Bastard in series sounds insane.

2n3904, as well as most BJT, should also work fine. These are used as buffers in the build so it shouldn't be a big deal.

Yeah, I agree: if you like the sound that's what matters. I have found in some cases that 6.3v vs. 6v can make a big difference (surprisingly) but only with a single tube. With two heaters in series maybe it's different, or maybe that was just a special case.

Correct.

my voltages seem good, other than the "b" side of the second lm324, its not even close to the 5v or so you
specc'd in the build doc... i'm reading less than half voltage there.

B-side voltages on that LM324 will change some through the different switch positions which I totally failed to mention in the build doc. So, it's possible I recorded my voltages with the switch in a different position. And, there may be some other pins changing voltages through the different positions as well. Do you remember what setting you were on when you recorded yours?

All things being equal, assuming all parts and values are correct it's hard to say exactly where the problem is. My inclination is to blame the switch or some kind of board-level failure (it's rare but it can happen). If it were me, my next step I would take is to remove the switch and hard-wire either positions 3 or 4 of the rotary to rule out the switch itself. If you can remove the switch without damage then it won't be too hard - jumper SW1A pole to both pins 3&4 A terminals and then jumper SW1B pole to either B terminal 3 or 4 to test the third and fourth positions, resp.

If you can get it working that way to at least confirm the switch as the issue I can send you one of my spare rotaries (which I know are good).

Lastly, from you voltages post: are you using the LT1054? You should not have had to jumper pins 1 & 8 with the LT1054 (that's only required when using other types of charge pumps to enable the internal frequency boost).

Sorry this has been such a bummer. I've re-checked over my schematic, board layout, parts library, switch functionality and my own personal build just to be "quadrupley" sure there's not some design flaw and I can't find any.

...people don't necessarily opt for the lowest cost possible because they want to personalize their builds to meet their own needs. So, another $5-8 might not be a big deal (of course that depends on the circuitry, what parts it requires, etc.)

I would tend to disagree with you on this one Brian. We all know that most, if not all builders tend to look for the best price on just about everything. It is exactly why we get monthly Tayda coupon reports  Where I would NOT agree with this is specifically those who build to sell. Those persons tend to look for better quality components.

Now, I am not saying that people don't personalize when they build. I am just saying that they will often go with the cheapest option to make their builds personal.

Don't get me wrong... I am definitely in favor of the idea presented in this thread. I was merely offering my opinion regarding price point with the venture.

Oh certainly. I could easily be wrong. I sometimes fail to take into account that I already have thousands of dollars invested in parts-on-hand so I don't personally consider end-cost on my own builds. But, I do think about it in the projects I release.

Anyway, I didn't mean to derail the discussion. Tuxedo, I think you should absolutely do the tutorial. I have an etchable layout for the CODA bypass in the Etcher's Paradise so if you want to incorporate that in any way please feel free. We could even post the end result on the Tutorials page (but only if that doesn't interfere with your personal plans for the guide).

I may be way off base here so someone can feel free to correct it but....

I think the reason that relay bypassing is not as popular is pricing. The PIC, Relay, and supporting parts are not all that cheap when compared to a sime 3PDT or Millenium setup. Although I believe relay bypass is superior... it is just not cost effective.

I think that's more of a consideration in manufacturing than DIY. In commercial production it's easy to justify omitting features to meet a target bottom line to compete in the desired market. In DIY, people don't necessarily opt for the lowest cost possible because they want to personalize their builds to meet their own needs. So, another $5-8 might not be a big deal (of course that depends on the circuitry, what parts it requires, etc.)

But, really - what someone needs to do is design a tiny pre-fabricated surface mount board and produce them in large quantities to make it cheap. Then the builder just has to add wires and a switch.

Hmmmm.

Simple explanation - you don't have a Sharkfin 2015 board. You have a prototype board I must have given away to someone a long time ago. I'd need a picture of the top of the PCB to identify it exactly.

...not sure, i thought they were supposed to be marked, but there's only a "7" on the bottom of the switch.

Well this seems the most likely clue unless I am misreading this somehow. The markings should show 1-8 just like the picture you posted. The A and B poles are between the 2, 3 and 6,7 terminals resp (although on the PCB layout they are labeled 1-4 for each pole). These can't be installed backwards since the rotational connections are symmetrical.

Just to be sure I check continuity between poles and terminals on one of my switches and they are correct (plus I've built this version, of course). I shipped the switches with the first 100 boards I sold but after that smallbear started carrying them so I discontinued that.

Anyway, I would take one of the bare switches you have an do the same continuity test: in the left most position pole A should connect to terminal 1 and pole B to terminal 4. Then as you rotate through the positions they should connect with the next sequential terminals. If all else fails, remove the existing switch from the board and tack solder wires between the correct poles and terminals to check each position (although this would be really tedious).

Can't help with the color part but my Brother B+W laser printer has been excellent for PNP Blue.

I really appreciate that compliment Gordo. I still feel like my demos could be a lot better. The problem is I don't plan ahead what to play. I played the perfect demo this morning before the camera was rolling  . I kinda wish I had used a different guitar. That was my SG with P90s which is really aggressive sounding so I had to compress the audio a bit to compensate.

If I just had a bit more space in my office I could have a "demo station" set up all the time with good lighting and the perfect mic setup. But, it just isn't feasible for the time being. I've got shit EVERYWHERE in here now...it's pretty ridiculous. Hundreds of built PCBs tucked away in places I don't even know what all I have.