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Here are my personal pedals. I don't have good knobs for the Gate Crasher now so I'll replace them later. You can also see where I drilled the LED hole too small (just did not feel like taking it all apart and re-drilling!)

It actually is pinned (I prefer it that way). For now I think I will try a little grease on the nut and see...something that can be wiped off easy.

[posted here]

I bought a 1968 Starfire V last year from a friend (posted here).  It is a beautiful looking and sounding instrument.  I like the finish on yours better because it lets the grain show through.  Also, yours has adjustable saddles, which mine doesn't.  If you can get it into spec, I can't imagine that you won't love it.

Yeah that's exactly what I was after without having to pay 67/68 prices, haha.

Got the string heights adjusted to spec and now it is really rockin' and still no fret buzz, thank god. This is set up for 11's so it's making a big difference. I guess down the line if I decide the vibrato is more trouble than its worth I'll just replace it with a harp type bridge. Looks like there are only a few attachment screws.

Following my Guild bass thread (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=26335.0) I started think again about how I've always wanted a six string version. Found several good deals on Reverb but I'm still a bit queasy about buying used guitars from unknown sources. I've mostly gotten lucky...but there's always a chance you end up with a twisted neck or something that won't show up on photos. I'd prefer to get something that's going to be set-up correctly at the start.

This Starfire was listed on Sweetwater @ 10% off due to a small blem. So, I figured it was worth a try. And...I'm not totally sure about it yet. The guitar is gorgeous, no doubt. And the build quality seems to be very good. Korean guitars have come a long, long way. But, it's not quite what I was hoping for.

- There's a second blem not mentioned in the listing: looks like a small gouge right at the neck joint by the low E string.
- There's quite a bit of string pulse on the B and E strings when playing but the pickups are not too close...in fact I thought they were too low out of the box. I should try it on a different amp, though.
- There's some flex at the ABR/rosewood bridge when the vibrato is used. Looks like it could be a potential failure point over time. Tuning stability is also not too good with the vibrato unfortunately. Also, a bit of creak out of the spring.

I took some measurements to see what the factory setup is like.
- Low E is a whopping 8/64th at 12th fret and High E is 6/64. But hey...no string buzz! It should be 5/64 and 4/64, resp.
- Thought the nut was cut high but clearance at the 1st fret is  about .03" which is correct, I think.
- Relief appears to be between .02-.03" @ 7th fret (capo at first, pressing on 15th fret).

So, I dunno. I do like the guitar and probably most of the issues can be addressed with a setup (fixing the string height, lubing the nut, etc). The second blem is not a big deal. I'm more concerned about the flexing bridge and string pulsing which would make me consider returning it. Dunno; never returned a guitar. I kinda don't want to...he's a handsome fellow!

Here's the beauty shot.

This is getting kind of exciting. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm thinking a little relay-based looper using these might be a very fun project indeed.

That's awesome! Were you able to get the actual connector in a 1590A without much hassle? I guess if you forgo a bypass switch in the fx box it wouldn't be a problem.

Great build and one of my favorite movies when I was a kid!

That is very cool looking, Felix. And, no - we did not use your layout!

Pics of the incoming guitar. The blem is so minute I can't see it bothering me...esp. when I'm saving $120 off the list price (yay, Sweetwater).

Well, I finally relented. Ordered a Starfire V. Expect to see things for sale in the BST section soon so I can ease my guilty conscience, haha.

I went to Guitar Center in Nashville with gear in hand to trade in but the one they had there was in seriously shitty condition. Electronics broken, caked in dust and missing a strap button. I wouldn't buy that even at half price. But, it played so very well and just felt right in my hands.

I keep coming back to this idea every few months and I have yet to try it. But, it seems like a perfectly fine application for DIY: using a DIN connector for power and I/O on pedals with a looper specifically design for that purpose. So, using one cable in place of three to connect/power pedals in series. Or, maybe there are split connectors where you could connect pedals without the need for a looper.

Couple caveats:
- Don't know what type of capacitance DIN cables have (although if they are only one foot long it may not matter much). Maybe a switchable buffer in the looper would be a good idea.

- Power distribution: that's the harder thing. I can think of three options (when using a looper based solution) 1) work out a transformer based distributed supply with completely isolated outputs, 2) use an 18v walwart with individual 9v regulators or 3) use a One Spot and hope for the best. I kinda lean toward option 2 because it's easy enough and probably the next best thing to #1. You could filter the hell out of an 18v supply for the quietest possible operation.

What do you guys think? Anyone ever tried alternate I/O methods with your DIY builds?

The latest appears to be that he's off life support with no brain activity but not expired yet. Not sure...there are some conflicting stories.

Part of me is just hoping he's visiting the other side of life and will wake up any minute to tell us everything is going to be fine. It's kinda hard to believe...only 66.

Can't see it happening. Don't think you would gain much anyway. The 1590A is not as wide as the LB, I think.

Awesome dog is awesome. Never had a dog til I was 30. Can't live without them now.

He's kind of big fella though. How do these dogs fit in your bed?