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Brian, how's the synth rockin going?

Good. I've used it on a few demos for the band and it delivers. I haven't spent nearly enough time with it but so far every use has yielded a success. It's just got a very cool vibe overall. I really need to try plugging my guitar into it. I saw a cool video a while back on how to do use it with a guitar.

So I opened up my S2/22 and it looks like it's got the same guts as your SE Custom 24: 180pF ceramic, 33n flat film, etc. Luckily the switch on my pot is not loose like yours (I may even have an extra one of those if you want me to look). But, I think yours has the Korean 85/15 pups which mine don't. I expect those a pretty nice pups you have in there. Just sayin'!

Almost one year on I seriously love the neck on mine. It just feels right on: scale length and carve are so comfortable. Still have a little fret buzz on the low E even with proper relief and saddle height. Pretty much the deal with every single guitar I own! I also finally broke out the trem bar and the thing stays in tune fairly well (I'm not a big tremolo guy).

Thanks @madbean, i swaped this one by a 330k already,  and it gives me a little bit less gain in the pot, but it feels like i lose unity when the level is at 0. (Also i am using a Linear pot in the level section)
thx

Okay you want unity gain at zero and fairly clean up to halfway. Leave your 330k as is, make that next 100k resistor a 330k also then change your level pot to either 250kA or 500kA. That will get you as close as you can.

Upping the value of R2 will reduce the overall gain you get with the Level pot. I would suggest socketing that resistor and try a few values there to get what you want. Start with either 330k or 470k and go up from there.

100k pot is fine.

I'd still wait for a sale.

22 stages? Jeez. 

Yup. Tap tempo capable too. Like I said in the development thread "22 stages because 24 would just be showing off."

Anyway, thanks for all the encouragement guys. Honestly, sometimes it sucks to be in this solitary vacuum trying to figure out all this stuff on my own. But, I can hardly complain...I am truly lucky in many ways and I remind myself of this constantly. I guess once in a while that frustration seems like that's all there is to this endeavor. But, then I get over it and GBTW!

I bends. If it don't fits, I bends again. No plastic gizmo req'd.

I've been working on the Supering reverb design for quite a while now (on and off for a few months) and while I thought it would be released this month that turns out not to be the case. The design is just not quite there yet. So, I'm going to run one more (friggin') prototype on it before finalizing the design which means it is going to get pushed back to December. However, the changes I am incorporating will be quite cool and I think everyone will be happy. I figured out a couple issues with the design but also a way to expand on some ideas without adding too much feature creep. This will actually be the third prototype.

In the meantime, I will be placing the order for the next batch at the beginning of this coming week so restocks and some new stuff will be coming soon (1st week of October I expect). I think the new projects will still be the Wumpus and also the soft-touch bypass project. Also, the VFE phaser should release at the same time.

If you have been following the Project Development section of the forum there are also many, many other cool projects in the works. I really hope to bring all of them out...and by that I don't mean 5 years later. Like within the next few months. A 22-stage phaser, stereo panner, a couple of sub-mini tube projects. Also, a tap tempo Dirtbaby which I haven't mentioned on the forum. And, I have not forgotten about previously promised projects like the Polyphase and Timel@apse plus the jury-rigged Rustbucket that's supposed to run on 9v. I really need to buckle down and get this crap out to you guys. Feeling a bit frustrated with myself in not being able to nail things down more quickly. Frankly my batting average in conception to completion is pretty frakkin poor. But, I also never give up completely on anything so I've got that going for me!

I will update as developments err...develop.

I had a G&L Ascari which I got through SDOTD a few years ago and I totally regret selling it. Excellent $300 guitar. I imagine the Tele version is quite nice.

I spot checked some voltages on my build and what I have on the chart seems to be pretty much correct (I did not check all possible pins).

Like GovtL said, IC8 is one of your problem areas but IC9 is also causing an issue. You've got 5.6v across the board where you should be having a lot of 0v (or near 0). But then, you have several other problem IC's as well. Whether or not those all trace back to one root cause is very hard to say (with so many ICs).

Here is what I do in these situations (and believe me, it will suck). You need to start testing these chips individually. I would start by pulling IC7, 8, 9 and 10 then do comparisons with the remaining chips and the reference voltage chart. If things start to check out then start popping those pulled ICs back in one at a time while comparing voltages to the chart again.

There is no easy or fast way to solve a problem like this...you just have to get in there and isolate the chips that are screwing up the build and replace them or look for something that might be causing good chips to go bad. I remember that I actually had a similar problem when I was putting this project together - actually completely unprecedented in all my building: I had three bad ICs in one build. It wasn't the design or my build but three different ICs that were bad (I think one CA3080, an LM311 and one other one).

Also, please upload a pic of the top of the board - I'll look it over for anything that jumps out.

Of course. Tech help is the right place.

I'm sorry - I got distracted by other things the last couple of days. I will get mine out tomorrow and look at the voltage chart.

MPF102 can be an excellent replacement. Not sure on the availability though. I bought my last batches of all of them when the EOL was announced.

Huh - 8mm. That is a bit long (though they could be made standing). Here are two 6mm ones (still a bit long):

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/RN55D1431FRE6/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhGzQiLrTi4xBWc4N7jZ0yHC0%3d
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/RN55D1431FB14/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG3gu04FpCMicro03p17NpK8%3d

Thanks for posting that. I forget which one I used...I'll have to look.