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just FYI Brian, you may or may not know this but the Sub37 and Subphatty have vst editors you can use in your host. So basically they pull up like a regular vst and you can control them with your DAW and/or with the hardware. Fully automatable too. It's nice cause of the librarian as well. 

I am actually on the Moog beta team testing the latest Subphatty editor right now. The old editor has some issues, this new one runs a lot better.

Ohh, sweet! I did not know that. Been watching a lot of Moog on youTube. I definitely have the bug now.

First synth?... probably won't be the last !

Probably not. The SubPhatty or Sub 37 could be mine someday. Been having some fun with the Monologue already, though. I'm going to try it through some pedals soon!

That might work okay as well. But there's still glue on those stickers, and I see a lot of issues with glue on laser forums. It's one of the reasons standard thin plywood is so hard to cut. There is a special type of think ply that is made for laser cutting, and the difference is the type of glue used to hold the plies together.

Ahh, yeah I guess you still have the glue on the surface you are using. Hmm, maybe carbon fiber wrap or some other vinyl wrap? A small dab of superglue would be enough to hold it in place for spray painting and easily removed. Or, possibly I have no idea what I am talking about.

Here's the first semi-successful test of the tape mask. The laser cuts through the actual tape just fine, but the glue on the tape backing kind of turns into sticky goo that needs acetone to remove. The pic below shows the goo cleaned up.

I think doing two passes might help destroy more of the glue. Or maybe cranking up the power (and/or slowing down the feed/speed).

Anyway, for certain types of art, this could be pretty cool. But I the fonts and art shapes/curves need to selected more carefully than other mediums.

I wonder if using a large label might work better. Like a 4"x5" label with sticky back. That way you could cut out the stencil on the laser then just peel it off without having to worry about glue clean up.

I've never owned or really used a synth other than VST plugins on my midi controller. Been lusting after the Minilogue for a long time but I could never justify the price for what I would use it for. But, the Monologue seemed like a good entry point for me and is considerably cheaper. So far, I'm enjoying it a lot and have been able to dial in some cool patches without too much trouble. There is a learning curve but since most of the controls are right there it's easy to tweak. I haven't even messed with the sequencer yet, but the envelope and LFO controls are loads of fun!

Do you hear the relay click over when you press the momentary switch? Have you grounded as described in the doc? Both of those could be problem areas.

hi there,
this topic is a bit old but i encountered the exact same issue on my stage fright 2015 : no phasing, lfo not oscillating.
I could resolve it by making a link between C15 and C16 : the small trace between them was missing/broken, not sure why..
Anyway, it's all good now.

great phaser btw.
cheers !
Patrice

I've re-checked the gerber files used for manufacturing and spot checked a few boards and the trace connecting the two caps is present in both. So, I think yours was an anomaly. But, I'll keep an eye out to see if anyone else reports a similar problem.

That'll work! Or if using a socket simply pull pin1 out rather than altering the LT1054.

Had a thought - if D2 (the green LED) was reversed, would this result in no delay signal?

Possibly. Make sure you get those the right way round.

No that's right. Sounds like something else is going on there....correct voltages, dry through and no delay means that delay signal is not producing or grounding out somewhere. I'd start with audio probing pin15 of the PT2399 to see if you are getting guitar input to the chip and then pin14 to see if you are getting delay output.

C29 is a good spot to darken the repeats up. Add a second 47n cap at the junction of R30/C29. Wire the other end of the cap to lug3 of a 25k pot and the wiper of that pot to ground. As you turn the pot up the two 47n caps blend in parallel and then you get darker repeats. You will have to turn the FDBK pot up more when you darken the repeats.

Any word on the Rustbucket and Polytrog?

Don't have any other updates right now.

I've updated the Projects Page with the following information:

The next batch of restocks will come the 1st or 2nd week of July. This will include the Aquaboy and Kingslayer (and a couple others that are about to go out of stock). The new project will be the Mandroid, which is the MBP take on the Hazelwanter Pitch Shifter/DBA Robot. Also, there will be another batch of the Pale Horse and AlphaDogs available at the same time.

August will have at least two new releases: the Supering and the Wumpus. The Supering is a "deluxe" version of the Moodring...it's a mash-up of the Moodring and Ping circuits. The Wumpus is a probe-type controller with on-board wah and volume effects (with additional outputs to control other effects).

Somewhere in-between the July and August relreases will be the release of the next VFE project which is the Choral Reef (chorus). I plan to have at least one more VFE project released in August...maybe two.

I don't have any new info on any other releases ATM.

Can you put a separate road rage in there and just use a 9v supply? I know there is already a pump (LT1054) to get the 15v, so I dont know if this will work.

Won't work...tried that well before the final design of the project.

Can confirm. This will not work at +/-9v.