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Which LED is not working...the one after R13? If so, the LFO seems to be the issue and your vactrols might be fine. You should take some voltage measurements on IC2 and IC3 to see if they are operating correctly.

You're too damn nice, Brian.

Nah, it's always better to give the benefit of the doubt. I've already heard back from the seller and it looks like it will be resolved without issue.

Reminds me of the time way back when a very well known pedal maker threatened to "destroy" MBP over some of my (original) layouts. Not really a professional way to handle things.

That's exactly right. Increase R5 to 20k or 22k will probably do it. Honestly, I think all circuits are better with a volume output to account for different pickup types and outputs but in this case there just wasn't room on the PCB to include one.

Which is exactly what I said in my message. But, I also offered to help him in working on his own original layouts so hopefully that will be enough to persuade him rather than having to get eBay involved. We'll see.

Thanks, I sent a message to the seller.

Ah, okay. I made a mistake in the archive - I had the etchable layout named as the "fabbed" ver.2.

Okay, I have fixed the zip. The ver.2 you are looking for is now in there and labeled "ver.2". Sorry about that.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/ARCHIVE/OD_Dist_Boost/Sunking.zip

This is in the Sunking.zip archive which is linked on the Projects Page.
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/ARCHIVE/OD_Dist_Boost/

Allan Holdsworth has died. Guy was beyond genius in the world of guitar players. I still remember the first time I heard "Metal Fatigue"!

http://variety.com/2017/music/news/allan-holdsworth-dead-dies-progressive-fusion-guitar-1202031666/

- What tolerances for R and C are OK? I am going for lower tolerances wherever possible. Will the board still produce the same sound if I cheap out for higher tolerances?? Also, do all of the tolerances have to be the same, or can a few resistors be 5% and others be 1%?

A: Caps - 5 or 10% for film, 20% for electrolytic
Resistors - Metal film is always better, but mixing tolerances is fine.
All circuits built to the same specs may produce very slight differences in sound due to tolerances. Don't concern yourself with this. A yellow basketball is still a basketball.

- Difference between Ceramic/MLCC capacitors?? Tantalum Caps?? (I read somewhere that these are not good for audio applications)

A: All of these are fine for pedal circuits. Tantalum do have a somewhat shorter shelf life and MLCC can be microphonic is some circumstances. I use poly film for 1n and up and MLCC for pF values and it's never caused a problem.

- I am not sure if the dimensions for the caps I have in my cart will be OK. If not to much trouble could someone maybe check one of them from my cart?

A: The specs are the same for almost all MBP builds: film/ceramic caps are 5.08mm lead spacing and electrolytic are 2.54mm spacing. As long as you are sticking to 25-100v on film caps and 25v on electros the dimensions should be okay.

- How are the XVive MN3005 chips with the coolaudio V571D chips? Close to the originals??

A: Haven't used the XVive with the CoolAudio so I can't comment. Someone else made a comment on this combo recently...try searching.

I am buying the MN3005 and V571D from small bear and I found a 22k trim pot at mouser electronics. Also, I bought the PCB from the madbean website.

A: Trimmer can also be 20k or 25k...it shouldn't be a big deal.

AND one more question for future reference:

- When calibrating the delay with a scope, what should I be looking for? For the CLOCK it says to adjust until frequency is around 6-7kHz, but for the BIAS trim, what would I look for? Also for the CANCEL trim. We have function generators at school, could I use these to adjust the delay?

A:


Sorry for all of the questions, I just want to make sure I buy the right stuff before I place an order and realize I got the wrong size/type.

No problem - that's why we are here!~

Sorry for the lack of update. Went down with the flu on Saturday and it's been kicking my ass. I'll get them as soon as I feel up to it (starting to get a bit better).

The 1n914 is where a lot of the signal rectification happens on the envelope follower and those are some of the ones used on IC3. I'll go back and double check my voltages to make sure my list is accurate.

As far as those particular diodes, I have seen the supposed 1n914 from Tayda cause problems with other builds (specifically the Rustbucket). So, it's hard to say if that's the issue or not (without testing of forward voltage, etc, I can't really say for sure)...no question that those are not 1n914, though. In general, I advise NOT buying diodes/ICs/transistors from Tayda. You just don't know what you are going to get.

Anyway, I will re-check my voltages and give an update soon.

That's going to be part of the problem my guess. If you need some 1n914 I can send you a handful. I have thousands. But, not sure that's all that's going on.

Yeah killer video. Much salt. So standing.

Yeah those are definitely not 1n914. They are from Tayda, aren't they? Not shaming...just verifying

That really depends on the type of transistor you are trying to sub for and what it is doing in that particular instance. Honestly, when I find myself in this situation where I don't already know I just Google (transistor name) and "sub" and many times that gives good info. Sometimes from DIYSB, in fact.

Even some transistors with very close specs don't work as subs but that is more rare, IME. For instance, the VFE Pale Horse I've been building calls for a 2N5484 or J113. Well, I had a J112 that was very close to the 113 specs for certain traits but it just did not work for that particular application.

At the most basic, stuff like Hfe, NPN vs PNP etc for BJT transistors; Vgs and Idss for JFET. And pinout is always a consideration esp. with JFET because they can get weird.