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I would look for obvious noise sources in the setup - room lights, breadboards, jump wiring, the particular wall socket you are using (some can be quite dirty for audio), etc. It's possible the noise will go away once it's PCB built and everything is shielded in an enclosure. Also, stick a couple 470uF caps and a 100n film cap in parallel to decouple the main power supply if you haven't already.

Also, maybe disconnect any pedals in the loops one by one to see if the noise level changes.

Just curious if there is any reasoning behind designing the standard series exclusively for the 1590b rather than both it and 125b? Some folks seem a tad hung up on top jacks.

A number of the circuits I'm working on for the series simply won't fit in both configurations. Some would, for sure. But then they wouldn't be "standardized" for one pre-defined hardware layout. I've got a pretty big hunch that when folks start building some of these projects they'll find them easy and enjoyable. At least, I hope so because I put in a tremendous amount of thought and planning into them, haha.

I was just thinking, that if it fits into a 1590b, a 125b is bigger in every dimension, so what's to stop you from using the larger size? Sorry, if I'm being dense.

Not dense at all! 125B requires extra space at the top end to fit the jacks and you have to make compromises to offer both options for 125B and 1590B simultaneously in a single PCB layout.

Frankly, I already did that in 2020 with a bunch of projects and sometimes that required a mix of 16mm snd 9mm pots. I dont think thats the best approach anymore. This series is about focusing on a specific layout standard for 1590B with minimal wiring and different bypass options. And, also because I want to make it easy for people that want to use the Tayda drilling and UV print service at the same time. These weren't even options just a few years ago.

Sweet! Nothing ever goes wrong with P90's!

Just curious if there is any reasoning behind designing the standard series exclusively for the 1590b rather than both it and 125b? Some folks seem a tad hung up on top jacks.

A number of the circuits I'm working on for the series simply won't fit in both configurations. Some would, for sure. But then they wouldn't be "standardized" for one pre-defined hardware layout. I've got a pretty big hunch that when folks start building some of these projects they'll find them easy and enjoyable. At least, I hope so because I put in a tremendous amount of thought and planning into them, haha.

Looks great! And, good on you for sticking it out and solving the bugs

Yeah, I had thought after the fact that there may not have been good solder connections on those pins. I'm glad you got it sorted.

I'm concerned about what you said about the patches though. I'll check back on my HEX file to see if anything changed. I don't recall ever doing that but it's easy enough to program an extra EEPROM and pop it in my build. When did you order the HT2?

Are you sure you have 3.3v at pin8 or the EEPROM? I don't know how you would not have matching voltages from pins 14 and 15 to pins 6 and 5 since you have continuity.

It's normal not to hear you audio at R4 (where it connects to inverted pin2 of IC1). As long as you have audio out of pin1 of IC1 then you are fine.

Does your EEPROM have a grey or gold mark on the top of it? I mark them all after I program them.

Even with the ICs removed you should have some voltage on pin3 of IC1.1 because there is a resistance connected to VREF. This is pretty weird. It could be a bad IMPED trimmer or even a bad socket (rare, but it can happen).

I'll wait for the pic though.

Pin3 is almost at ground which is why pin2 and 1 has swung up nearly to the rail. That's your problem area. I think we'll need a nice clear pic of your build to review your component values and wiring to make sure nothing has gone wrong there.

Also, try removing both the 4580 ICs and measure that pin3 again in the bare socket and report your result.

Maybe I'm off the mark here with my interpretation of the want.desire/ask, so take this with a grain of salt.

This is a worst case scenario in the 1590BB2; board/component height based on 90* PC pin pot mounting; jack drilling on max spacing without hitting the inner part of the lid

6x11mm caps in blue
lumberg KLBM-3 jacks


1590BBS / 125BB with 90* rotation on the jacks



I think it'll depend on the population.


edit: fixed 1590BBS image to account for lid collision

I don't think any of the projects have that configuration for electrolytic caps so I don't think that will be a big problem. The space around the 9v connection is usually pretty clear. But, I'll check again with the upcoming releases and also keep that in mind for all the future ones.

Yeah, that one has been offered in years. I'm definitely game for doing another dual PT2399 type project. I'd probably do a few things differently now, but I still like the option of having different repeat modes, etc.

I actually still have the PCB from when you first offered them.  They just kind of ran their course? Nothing problematic with the circuit?

I may take a crack at it


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No, nothing problematic. Some projects just run their course in terms of sales so things get discontinued in favor of newer projects. I've never been one to just keep projects around indefinitely. But, considering how often people ask about older ones I should probably stop doing that, haha.

Something is going wrong with that supply voltage. Either the charge pump isn't doing its job or an IC is pulling too much current.

I'd start by pulling all the ICs except the charge pump. Now measure the voltages on the regulator again and see if you are getting closer to 18, 0, 15. If not, then the problem may just be with the charge pump.

If you do get the right voltages with all other ICs removed, then start inserting each IC in order, one by one. After inserting an IC check the voltage regulator again. That will help you determine which IC is pulling too much current and where we should focus on.

Yeah, that one has been offered in years. I'm definitely game for doing another dual PT2399 type project. I'd probably do a few things differently now, but I still like the option of having different repeat modes, etc.

Actually, 125BB with top jacks for the duals, I think. Might be possible to do 1590BB with side jacks but then the bypass switches have to be moved close together. With 125BB everything lines up just right.

What about 1590BB2? Does the extra height help top jacks much for how you're planning it?
With the double bypass switch, how about an order switch between the two footswitches too?

I don't think Tayda carries the 125BB so maybe the 1590BB2 is the alternate choice. Perhaps the 1590BB itself is possible with the Lumberg jacks turned sideways. I'll need to check into all that.

I think the order switch thing would work out pretty well. But, it is a bit of a pain to bypass if you don't want to use it.

Actually, 125BB with top jacks for the duals, I think. Might be possible to do 1590BB with side jacks but then the bypass switches have to be moved close together. With 125BB everything lines up just right.