Messages

You can find the original Nautilus project here:  http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/ARCHIVE/FilterMod/

On the Nautilus project, to have only the LP mode you would jumper the pads on the rotary switch that correspond to "A" and "LP". LP corresponds to the "3" lug on the rotary switch.

Awesome encounter! He'll always be Cave Johnson to me.

Print the page from Acrobat, cut the PNP to size and tape it over the PCB image and print again to the same page.

Or if you can open the PSD file in Gimp, set the DPI of the image to 300.

I forgot how much I like the Bloviator. It adds touch sensitivity and cleans up the guitar in a nice way. Done here in a 1550P with comically large knobs.

I was able to get these in the store a little early: Now Back In Stock: CherryBomb, Rangemaster, Kingslayer, Naughty Fish, Moodring, Slow Loris and Current Lover

The Rangemaster project has sold pretty poorly (last batch I made took two years to sell out) so I decided to re-do it as a 1590A project in the hopes of renewed interest (plus it's now $3 cheaper). You can see an example of it in my FuzzRanger thread here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=24090.0

I'm pretty sure I tried it with at least a MAX or TC1044 and it did not work. Since the ICL7660 is similar I tend to think the result will be the same.

There are good ideas and there are great ideas. This was the opposite of those. I wanted to see if I could put a Klon in a 1590G with top mounted jacks. I did it but with much cursing of my misfortune and lack of foresight. There is maybe 3 nanometers of space between the jacks and pots. Never again!!

Here is my other tolexed box. It's got a silicon Tonebender and one of the new mini Rangemaster boards. I debated over what order to put them in and decided on Fuzz-Rangemaster. I find the treble boost not useful with the Tonebender in front but with the input cap switched to mid-boost it makes the Tonebender sing and cut through.

I did one mod - the 10nF to ground on the Tonebender was changed to 1nF. This makes the circuit noisier but it really opens it up on my Tele. A great sweet spot plus it reacts perfectly to rolling the guitar volume down. Also, I spent some time on transistor selection and finding the right Hfe on them. I used 2N4401 for Q1 and Q2 and a 2n3565 for Q3. Q2 is about 100Hfe and Q3 about 130.

I had to get a bit creative with the power and ground wires since there were a lot of them to connect.

I would love to dig through the prototype drawer, see what treasures lie in there

This is after I cleaned it out.

Thanks guys. I did two enclosures in this tolex. This one used superglue and the other spray adhesive. Can't decide which method I hate more

Anyway, this build gave me a great idea for an MBP project: a dual channel OD where one side is a single channel Blackstone and the other side is my Danger Zone project (both being similar but slightly different flavors of the same circuit). I'm gonna work on that a bit.

I ran across this PCB while cleaning out my prototype drawer. I designed this in 2011 but never did anything with it, so I decided to build it up. It's the Blackstone Appliances OD, which used to be a project here many years ago. I've been experimenting with some tolex covering so it seemed appropriate to do a bit of cowboy here. I really like the way this came out! I would have preferred some cream colored knobs but I don't have any cool ones ATM.

No more crappy bad links, missing project docs and general asshattery.

I demand an ASSHATTERY button. 

No more crappy bad links, missing project docs and general asshattery.


This button is on the Projects Page. The one at the top links to the entire archive structure. The ones in the different project categories link to the folder for that specific type of effect (delay, overdrive, etc). There may be a couple missing versions of things here and there for some of the really old projects (going back to 2009/10) but it's mostly there.

I may have spoken too soon on this. I kept having the same problem using different styles of 3PDT boards (not just this one). In the end I discovered the issue came from some super cheap metal jacks I was using. Apparently their poor construction lead to tip/sleeve connection through the enclosure. Once I changed them to quality jacks (Switchcraft, I think) the problem went away.

So, I don't it's necessary to cut that trace shown above. I'm fairly sure it was just those crappy jacks I was using.

With the dye mixed in the sides of the enclosure come out a bit weird. You get more of a tint rather than a solid color and the dye tends to collect around the bottom leaving a ring of color. Not much that can be done about that, I think.

I've got a couple other ideas on how to do the application with tinted envirotex so I'll update this thread if I make more progress.