Messages

47n is fine.

I never got the 1uF tantalum. If you isolate the audio in just that portion it is incredibly low compared to the rest of the circuit. There is no reason not to just use an electrolytic IMO.

47n is just fine.

Using a 100n for C22 will alter the character/tonality of the repeats somewhat. It makes a bit less tape-like in the way the repeats degrade. It also may change where the feedback control goes into self-oscillation.

You can omit R30 if you are using a breakout board with the LED circuitry already on it.

The green LED is only for the PT2399, like Jimi said. It should not be mounted externally.

Wow, that board got murdered!

I won't be surprised to find some differences. IIRC, Martin said the actual PCB layout had some minor changes and it seems the Klon has gone through a few small value evolutions over the years. Anyway, thanks for sharing!

Cool, I'm glad you like it. I've stayed away from bypass boards since several people already offer one. But, I'll give it some consideration. At the very least, I can do some as giveaways now and then.

Thanks for the feedback. I will adjust the BOM accordingly.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/Cherrybomb/docs/CherryBomb.zip

It's actually linked in the current 2015 doc.

Looks super! I should really box mine up...such a nice sounding phaser.

Here is an easy way to find out: put another LED is series (with its cathode to ground) and use a 4k7 resistor or similar. Apply 9v. If the second LED lights up, the mark on your vac is the anode (my NSL have the mark on the cathode, BTW).

Well, "worth it" is pretty subjective. Here are some things to consider -

The Phaser is 4-stages and the Wigl is two. So, the Phaser is likely to be a little more lush than the Wigl and you can sub in the Univibe value for the phase shift caps. The Wigl is different in that the LFO does a decent job of emulating the "lilt" of a Univibe LFO. However, I don't see any reason you could not emulate that with the Tapanator by adjusting the waveform to sine or triangle and then using the Distortion pot to swing the output some. So, it might sound very cool but I don't know that it would be a world of difference.

Modding the Wigl to work with the Tapanator is a bit more work. You have to remove LED3 from the PCB pads it connects to entirely and have it connected to the external jack you would use for the Tapanator. On the Wigl, LED3 connects between R17/18 and ground, whereas with the Tapanator, the LED would need to connect to the tip and sleeve aof the external jack (the cathode of the LED goes back to the associated transistor in the Tapantor instead of ground).

Fret condoms?

tenacious f(x)

I love this.

I've uploaded the doc for the 3PDT board: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/3PDT/3PDT_PCB.pdf

I made these for my own personal use, but have way more than I need. So, these are going in the first 50 or so orders to get rid of the extras. May not be to everyone's taste since they are for pin-type foot-swtiches but hey, it's free.