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Picture not showing. Anyway, if it is 78L05 the pinout might be opposite. Try flipping it around on the PCB.

Last year we had a mega-epic Photoshop thread. Unfortunately it was lost in the crash which is too bad because it was probably the funniest thread we've ever had. Let's do another one. Here's your starting point.

I must be the only one who hates the G&L headstock. It looks like a bottle opener or self pleasuring device to me.

Should be fine!

It's possible, but you would need to disconnect things. The entire LFO would need to be nixed (everything between R32 and R37) as well as R38 and the Delay pot. Connect the Tapatation as normal to pin6 of the PT2399. So, you won't have the normal DMM type modulation available in that case but you will have the modulation available from the Taptation.

That's correct.

Oh boy...VFE is here. Quick everyone hide!

(I keed I keed. Welcome to the forum Peter!)

Your question is a bit too broad. Jimi pretty much said it all...it depends on the circuit and what that particular resistor is doing within it. In your example, using a 510R in place of a 470R is probably not going to make any difference in an audio path. Using a 1k5 in place of a 470R might, though. Any value within a margin of +/-5% I would not give a second thought to using as a sub. If it is +/-10% or more, I would probably put two resistors in series to get close to the specified value.

You don't need a heat sink. I could see using one on maybe a germanium diode but personally I never use one for anything. Again, the key here is a properly hot soldering iron to minimize the heat exposure of the parts and pads. Of course you get good looking joints from 10 seconds of heat, but as Jon said you are really rolling the dice with on your components. If you cannot get a good joint within 2-3 seconds your iron is not hot enough. Or, maybe you are using an inappropriate solder type or core diameter. What iron and solder are you using?

Personally I do "ghetto" soldering on everything. This means touching the iron to the joint and solder to the iron instantly for a very small melted bulb over the pad and lead (technically the wrong way to do it). But then I lift the iron off for a couple of seconds and repeat the same process on the joint. This gives a nice bulb of melted solder with a small break from the heat in between. This method never fails to get good solder joints for me without damaging components.

10 seconds is way overkill. Two to three seconds should be more than enough. Touch the pad and joint simultaneously, count to two or three and flow solder. If you are not getting good flow at that point your iron temperature might be too low.

Yes, we are weeks away from the next release. It looks like it will be called the "Parallax". It's a phaser/tremolo. It sounds...pretty insane!

At fist, I thought the bench was playing the music when he opened the door and raised the panel. 

Hey, in 'Merca we do things proper and that's month then day. Helps us remember which dates are fer shootin stuff.

We'll have an end-of-summer free shipping thing to coincide with the next batch of boards released. The Projects Page says 9/15 but I think it's more likely to be the 17th or 18th. Regardless, when the boards go on sale is when the free shipping will start (for two to three days).

With the Tapanatorator finally complete I'll be focusing my full attention on the Timelapse (analog tap tempo delay) and the Polyphase projects. These will be the next two released unless I just can't pull them off for some reason

I expect to have the Tapanator docs and demo up this weekend well before the boards are in. Everything has been built/tested and is good to go!

Voltages are a bit off. Pin3 is a bit low and pin6 is high.

Three things I would first do to debug this -
1 - Try a different IC (any dual op amp) and recheck the output and voltages.
2 - Check pin5 and pin3 with the IC pulled and see if you are still getting about 4.5v.
3 - Audio probe pins 3, 1 and 7 of the IC in that order then lug3 of the Tone pot to see where the signal is dropping out.