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I've used 3 and 5mm in various delay builds. Either should be fine for exactly the reason you stated.

200 ohm is just fine.

TL062 is the preferred chip for the LFO due to its lower current consumption. You can use TL072 for the audio path just as easily. Or, JRC4558 like the DMM.

That is sick. Really love the whole thing. Have fun!

Make sure C2 is 220pF and not 2n2 or otherwise. You can increase the volume output by making R5 22k instead of 15k.

Isn't the extra stage at the front of the circuit?

It's the buffer that is always present in the G2 design. There is a separate bypass buffer which is the one not included on this project.

Yes, there is no R12 and it lists two 10k in the Shopping List instead of one. I'll fix that up. Thanks.

Got the old audio probe out. Signal on the input nothing on pin 7 or 8 so does that mean I have a dodgy BBD?

It could, but don't give up on it quite yet. How are your voltages on the BBD? I assume you have tried adjusting the clock and bias trims, correct? Did you make any subs on the build? And, where did you get your MN3007 from?

Something in your signal chain could be microphonic which is getting amplified in that particular order of pedals. Don't fix what isn't broken right now but if it comes back let us know.

Can attest to the physical impact hand-making large quantities of PCBs has on the body. I used a mask most all the time and still had some issues with dust, etc. The biggest impact for me was actually drilling...it does a serious number on the body when you drill boards many, many hours of the week. I remember clearly at the time I decided to go to manufactured boards I thought - I wonder how much longer until Barry does the same - because I could tell it was deteriorating my own health.

Glad to see you around here Barry, and I'm very sorry to hear about your health concerns. I hope that will turn around on you. The body can heal itself pretty well when given the chance so I hope that comes to pass for you as well.

What you are describing sounds pretty much how it operates. As it says in the build doc, most of the LED control is in the first half of the turn with it going very dim and completely off as you go further. The range over across the pots for the LED brightness is pretty small and that's the nature of the circuit - fine tuning.  However, a lower voltage on IC4 could limit the LED brightness further like you are describing so it could make it worse.

What kind of vatrol are you using? Did you use a VTL or Macron or roll your own? Wondering the the internal LED of your vactrol could be in play here.

Two builds same problem - what I would look at is if you are getting signal into and out of the MN3007 first. Audio probe pin3 for input and either pin7 or 8 for the output.

I'm not gonna lie - I have no earthly idea what would cause that. Here are some guesses -

Are you using an isolated power supply or sharing power with other effects? If sharing try using an isolated on the WIGL as an experiment to see if that fixes the problem. I would be surprised because I use a One Spot to power all my 1590G pedals (you can see from the demo video), but it is at least a possible cause.

Secondly, are you positive that you have used 10M for R1 and R2 and 47k for R3 and R4? Any chance those values got swapped on any of them?

Lastly, anything weird on the voltages of IC1 and 2?

Sorry for the late check-in on this thread. I appreciate you sticking with it.

The lower voltage reading at pin3 of IC4 could be explained by the added series resistance of R10-12. Since you have done this true-bypass I assume you omitted either R8 or R9 and jumpered the BYP switch, correct?

The voltages could explain the noise, certainly, so let's see if we can raise it a bit. Possibly we need to lower the overall resistance in your case to see if it increases the VB voltage supply to IC4. This would mean putting in another 1M resistor in the R8 or R9 you omitted to come out with 470k instead of 1M. Or, even going down to 220k overall.

[07.25.16]

07.25.16

Darkside
- Based on the Cornish G2. This is a true-bypass version fitted for the 125B w/ top mounted jacks.