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It actually does not have tails in either bypass wiring.

Tyler...one email is enough. You don't need to also PM, post in this thread and leave me a voice mail. I got it. 

[Free Shipping World-Wide through Monday.]

Projects page has been updated. Here is a reminder of what's new:

- NEW: Woodstork, Rabbit Hole, Weener Wah 2016
- RESTOCK: Wolfshirt, Total Recall, Moodring, Deathklaw, FatPants JR, Cave Dweller and DigDug2
- A few PCBs also have small price reductions (permanent)
- Free Shipping World-Wide through Monday.

Currently, the Rabbit Hole doc is up. The Weener Wah and Woodstork docs will be up later today.

If you PM'd me in the last week or so I have not responded. I am behind. I will get all those PM's answered by weekend's err, end

The boards are here as of today. Not totally sure if I will get things up before tomorrow as is. It takes a long time to inspect 1000 PCBs (it was a big order). In any case, the restocks and free shipping will start tomorrow at the latest.

The TR is positive ground. It doesn't matter if your adaptor is negative or positive tip. All that matters is that from the DC jack, you wire the +24v tip to ground on the TR PCB (the square pad) and ground from the DC jack to -24v on the TR PCB (the round pad). So, when you measure the voltage directly on the TR PCB you will have -24vDC with respect to ground.

Purple Rain was my second LP ("Rumors" was the first). Oh boy do I remember loving that record from the moment I heard it. I was maybe 12 or 13 ATT. What a body of work to leave to the world

April releases and re-stocks are coming right at the end of the month. There was a bit of a change to what I thought was happening - both the DigDug and TotalRecall are being re-stocked now. Seems better to have some TR in stock with the Xvive chips being available at smallbear finally.

The Cave Troll is being pushed back. This is because I'm not happy with it yet. I thought I was a couple of months ago but it just isn't there. So, I will work some more on that and see what I can do. Instead, we will have a 1590G Fuzz (basically the '69 with on-board voltage inverter pictured here - http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=19684.msg219321#msg219321). The Weener Wah has been updated to a 2016 version. This is a more basic wah without the JFET booster (but it still has the notch switch). I decided to go simple on this final version of the Weener as I am also working on a sub-mini tube wah for release later this year.

Finally, I'm doing at least one run of 1590A muff boards called the Rabbit Hole. Plenty of other 1590A Muff boards out there but I thought it would be fun to do some too since I have not released many new 1590A projects in the last two years. Here's a pic of the proto (built to Civil War specs).



Lastly, I'm thinking let's do another Free Shipping weekend to coincide with the releases/re-stocks. I'll get definite dates on everything by early next week.

PS I do not have any updates on any other projects in development right now (someone always asks ). I will provide some updates very soon.

The best way I've found to do pickup height is to fret really high (like 15th or 17th) on the low E and adjust the bass side of the pickup to the spot just before I hear any warble, artifacts or weird sounding harmonics. Then I do the same for the high E and treble side of the pickup and done! This usually ends up being a bit lower than factory recommended height in some cases.

In my experience, the second pair (D3,D4) have a more pronounced effect when switching diodes in a Muff. You can make life easier by installing the LEDs for D3/4 and switching the 1n914s in parallel with the LEDs rather than fully switching between LEDs and 1n914. Clipping will occur through the diodes with the lowest forward voltage so when the 1n914 are in parallel with the LEDs, the LEDs are effectively ignored.

How can I NOT buy this?

S and R are send and return. IOW, FXIN and FXOUT.

Interestingly, I found that C32 plays a huge part in preventing leakage of the delay signal out of bypass mode. A 1uF film doesn't work. 10uF did the job on mine, but perhaps 22uF is the better choice. Best I can figure is it has something to do with ESR in the caps but I don't know for sure.

Oh wow...this looks amazing!

Definitely no hiss in the reference build. I would first eliminate your power supply as a noise source. Then I would check the pin7 and pin1 IC1 output to see where the hiss starts. Could be the IC itself or your photocell, I suppose.