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And all that being said, we generally encourage people who want to do that kind of thing as long as they are respectful of others doing the same thing. There are quite a few members who offer various PCBs and one-off's beyond the officially sponsored stores here and that's cool. If you have any questions or doubts about a particular project you are considering feel free to PM me.

I hope so. Running the BL3208 version at 15v like the MN3005 version does seem to help a lot. However, there are tweaks that have to be done to optimize it even with just a BBD change. My plan is to do a side by side for everyone. Maybe even a blind test if I can get them close.

Still working. My DB3 BL3208 build had some bugs (bad regulator, bad IC) so it's taking time. Everything is working just fine now...I'm at the tweaking stage to see how much I can improve certain aspects. Definitely a big step above the v3205 version we did a few years ago but I wanna get the extra 10% to make it special.

You could try bumping up your T2 trimmer to 50k or 100k to see if you can dial in the bias voltage.

If you've got -9v to the BB board I'm not sure how you are getting not voltage readings on the collectors. Try pulling Q1 and measure the voltage readings on the socket.

I like it very much! Very useful tones, IMO. However, it doesn't seem to play with the 100mA output on the PP+ supply. So, I guess I may have to upgrade that eventually.

A few tweaks on my board. Unfortunately I can't show my new favorite yet

Pretty soon I'm going to design and construct a new board that's mostly DIY builds. This one is for my most bestest commercial pedals.

The only way that can happen is if you have crossed the -9v and G wires from the RR to the BB board or if you have reversed the leads on your DMM when measuring voltages. Make sure that -9v on the RR board goes to -9v on the BB board and G to G. With your DMM use the black lead for ground and the red lead to measure the collector voltages on the transistors. You should now read negative voltages.

Given how hard you have been trying on this, I don't mind sending you a free replacement PCB. I wanna see you succeed.

More to whet your uhh, whistles?

I'm with Jon on this one. If a limiting resistor doesn't eliminate it altogether then as different power supply might be the answer. The One Spot is cheap and has more than enough current to power several pedals. Plus, it's what I prototype everything on and I have not run into a situation yet where I found a noise problem being created solely by the One Spot (on individually tested circuits).

The two lower octaves are identical except there is one additional output mixer. This will allow more control over individual volume controls. The upper octave section is completely new. It is pretty close to the Foxrox Octron. I will be much more pronounced and tweakable. So, this really isn't going to be the Pearl Octaver anymore. It'll be in-between the Pearl and Foxrox.

Yeah IC3 is pretty wonky. I discovered that my socket was installed backwards (which probably doesn't do anything), but I flipped it and now my voltages there are even more strange.

1. 0
2. 4.17
3. 0
4. 0
5. 4.17
6. 0
7. 0
8. 0

That's, uh, not good. my connections look pretty secure and neat. I just tried cleaning it with isopropyl and that seemed to help at first but didn't really look like it did the trick. Any more ideas on what I could try here?

What if you remove the IC. What do you get on pins 8 and 4 in just the bare socket?

I actually don't have that problem with my One Spot.

I think audio probing is a good idea here. Find the origin of the noise as the signal goes through the circuit.

Sounds good. I will convert the Dirtbag to SMD today.