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Sure thing. Going forward I can make sure new projects use the solder lug type for board mounted switches. As older projects get re-ordered I should be able to do the same thing.

Yup, mode 1.

The wiring is the same as any other true bypass project. I guess the only difference here is that the LED pad connects to the + end of your LED and the negative end of your LED goes to your 3PDT rather than the LED pads themselves being directly on the PCB.

If you are getting delay through, but with too much noise, then wiring is probably not the issue. You'll need to start looking at where that noise is introduced in the circuit via an audio probe.

Like Steve said, the voltages are correct. The problem is that the IC is pushed a bit beyond it's capacity which is why I changed the limiting resistor as is seemed to solve the problem. But, an IC swap also accomplishes the same thing...the only difference is whether or not you feel one IC is better than the other. Personally, I really like the 274 in this circuit which is why I put it in the BOM even though the design pushes it just out of spec. But, the 2264 or 074 also sound fine.

Marc,

There was an update to the doc last year suggesting that R28 be replaced with 150R or higher. You could do that, or swap in a different quad amp like the TLC2264 or TL072 if you do not want to go through the trouble of desoldering. Either will solve the problem...your voltages are fine.

No demo?😃

I went through a phase of adding CLRs on power supplies in some of the projects thinking that this is a smart thing to do, especially for people that might use some of the less than ideal, not well regulated supplies that are prone to noise. But, what I'm finding based on some build reports and tech help threads is that I have miscalculated on this. A few people have had problems with burned up resistors due to their projects pulling too much current through the specified value.

So, first off, I'm sorry if this happened to you and it was a total lack of foresight on my behalf. Second, luckily it is easy to correct. So, if you are building a project, and there is a specified 10R resistor on the power supply (would usually come after the 9v input or 1N5817 diode), I suggest you either 1) increase the value to 47R - 100R (and use 1/4W) or 2) just jumper the resistor since it is not essential to the operation. This is only an issue with a few projects that listed a 10R current limiting resistor on the power supplies. Ones with higher values are not an issue.

If you have already built a project with one of these and it is stable, don't worry about it. This is just a cautionary to those few that have had this problem, or might have it in the future.

Hey! What happens when you accidentally swap your MN3007 and comparator on your Current Lover build? Well, do you like camp fires? Cause that's how you make one!

(I admit nothing).   

From now on, I am moving the IC labels outside the area covered by sockets!

Honestly, I did not even know that was happening. I never use Tapatalk. If someone knows an ad-free alternative please speak up.

Just messing around.  I'll take it down if you're not cool with it.

Hahaha...that's great. But, that squished bean looks a bit like Mr. Hanky!

The Spring Sale is live: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/index.html

20% through Monday. 

I go into Walking Dead a few years before the show came out (which I also like a lot), so I've got all the graphic volumes of those. Great books! These are the only ones I read regularly. I also like Peter Bagge's stuff a lot, Hate and some of the more recent stuff he's done. I was into some of the Image and Dark Horse stuff for a few years.
I've got 6 or 7 long-boxes full of Amazing/Spectacular Spider-man, X-Men, and all kinds of Marvel stuff from the 80-90's when I collected as a kid.  I was never very much into DC. Unfortunately, I don't think they are worth as much as I though they would be at this point, but that's cool. Someday I will sit down and re-read all that stuff I loved as a kid.

Okay, no point in going against the tide. I will set up a pre-order for the next batch as well as the LaserWolf. Thanks for your vote of confidence guys!

However, I want to be clear: the pre-order will have to come after the sale. The reason is 1) I want to get everything completely locked down and airtight before taking anyone's money, 2) ideally I will have at least the BOM for each project ready to share and 3) it's actually going to take a bit to work out what the prices and shipping is going to be on the large boards. I will get on this right away so let's shoot for the middle to end of next week. I will give at least a day's notice before the pre-order stuff goes up.

Again, thanks. This will make it easier to get enough boards to make everyone happy 

Code is the real deal, I am delighted that he is here! Welcome.

If I had a suit, I would put it on, pretend to be a buyer and go play this at the store.