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A small series resistor before the input of the circuit plus grounded on bypass wiring might help reduce that pop. With the large input impedance of the SHO, you could reduce the input cap way down without any difference in tone, too. Probably 10n or even less.

I will be doing a short run of Laserwolf PCB's that will ship the first week of March. These are available for pre-order in the store now. The prices are $17 - $21 shipped. International & Canada will require 1st Class shipping rather than Flats so they are more expensive, I'm afraid. The base price for the board itself is $15 (it is rather big).

Anyway, there will be about 20 boards available. The few small issues and work-arounds from the first run have all been corrected.

Let me know how it turns out. Maybe I could work in a revision later on if it is worth the effort.

Funny you say that cause that idea occurred to me after I released it (d'oh).

Anyway, take the dry signal from the negative side of C5 (no filtering) or C9 (somewhat filtered), use a resistor or trimpot  inline to set the signal level and then connect that to pin3 of the reverb brick.

A customer sent me this picture of his Collosalus 2015 board. It appears that on his board there is a small trace bridge from C22 to ground which should not be the case. This is a manufacturing error as it most definitely is not in the design files I sent. Please see the pic below which shows the bridge inside the white circle.

I have spot checked some of the boards I have on hand and have not found another one like it, but I will be doing a continuity check on all the remaining boards to be sure.

So, I advise everyone who has received a board so far to inspect this area carefully. If you do see a bridge to the ground plane, it can be removed with either a razor or Xacto knife. Just cut the bridge between the pad and ground plane with a few controlled slices. If you have a continuity checker, please ensure that there is no connection to ground after you cut.

This might be an isolated incident, or not. I will update this thread when I finish inspecting the remaining boards. My apologies for the error.

BTW: Look at how tight that soldering job is! Impressive.

Great work and extra points for DIY'ing your own layout on it. Welcome back!

Also forgot to mention: watching the Grammy's with my buddy Graham was a lot of fun. We've been playing music together for so many years we have nearly the same opinion about all music. We both agreed that Ed Sheeran (or whatever his name is) is total shite and that John Mayer was completely tolling the performance with the purple Jackson with shark tooth inlays and whammy flutter licks. Also, how ironic that Sam Smith won so big yet Tom Petty was re-buffed? The Lady Gaga/Tony Bennett performance was great (she totally has the vocal chops) and even though I have not hear the new Beck the tune he performed was outstanding. Also, I rather liked the harp rendition of the Stevie Wonder tune. And even 15 seconds of Prince is better than no Prince at all.

In summary, madbean's opinion of the Grammy's: 60% shite, 30% total gold, 10% WTF? (like Sia and 10 -15 audience shots of Taylor Swift).

Admittedly, the only thing I have is 20k trimpots now. So, yeah: they will always work haha.

Back home. I had a great time up in Illinois surprising my best buddy and band-mate for his 40th birthday. Also got the chance to do the final final (*and I mean final) cleanup on the record we are releasing here in a couple of months. Plus, I got to hear his other band rehearse and man they are good stuff.

Anyway, I did not get all the orders out before I left so tomorrow morning I will do that. I will also be ordering the first of the two next batches of releases which I will give more detail on soon. Basically, the first batch will be mostly re-stock and the one that follows a couple weeks after will have a ton of new stuff. After that, in March, we can look forward to almost ALL new projects I think. I'm so close to wrapping up about a dozen projects that I think folks here are going to be very excited.

Lastly on this update, starting around mid-March I will dial down the production side and concentrate mostly on the website re-design and Etcher's Paradise release. I have promised that both of these things will happen by mid-Spring and I intend to keep it. I am looking to integrate some of the suggestions made in the "2015 suggestions" thread on the website, too!

Basically, hold onto your buts cause the next two or three months is going to be VERY productive here.

The 10R combines with the small amount of series resistance on the BS250 to form a low pass filter on the power supply (with the decoupling caps). You can use higher values for the resistor which will handle the current better in terms of heat dissipation. At the same time, higher values will reduce the voltage supply to the effect. So, I picked the 1/2W to solve both problems: keep it noise free as possible and keep it as close to 9v (or 18v) as possible. But, it seems some people to have a problem with getting 1/2W resistors so I don't think I will continue doing that on any further projects. Probably not the BS250 either since some international customers had trouble getting those, too.

Anyway, if you have left the BS250 in that is all you need for reverse polarity protection. It does the job and then some, and has the least amount of voltage drop, too. If you jumpered it out, then yeah; a 1N4001 form 9v to ground would be fine.

Hmm. Two possible spots; right at C20 or at C28. Both of those spots are in phase with the input.

If you removed either one of those caps for a loop, be sure to couple both ends with a cap. So, a 1uF from each jack back to the PCB.

I'll be out of town for the next three days. Mostly that only concerns the moderators but just letting everyone know. I'll be able to check the forum a couple times at least...hopefully there will not be another service disruption.

There are a few outstanding orders which I plan to have shipped tomorrow morning.

It will not go full wet as is. The DMM does not, either...it's always a blend. The problem with using a higher value pot is that it will upset the natural balance between wet and dry. IOW, you might be able to eliminate some or all of the dry signal but at the same time lose the ability to find the right blend between delay and dry at lower settings.

What Alan suggested is the right thing here. A switch to remove the dry signal altogether. To do this, you will need to use a solder lug pot for the Blend. Wire lugs 3 and 2 to the PCB as normal. Wire lug 1 of the pot to the middle lug of and On/On switch and then either one of the free pins on the switch to pad1 on the Blend pot on the PCB.

thanks i figured it out right after i posted soldering stuff at 3 am isnt ideAl . thank you very much i accidentally used an electrolytic so i was like where does this tantalum go oh boy feel stupid now ha ha. hey actually i read tantLums arent as reliable? also hpw much different woulf the tantalum sound than a electrolytic? if nothing than why even use a tantalum.thanks again.

Tantalums tend to be more reliable than electrolytics.  Why would you use a single tantalum when the rest of the pedal uses electrolytics?  Only the Unicorn knows.

If you isolate just that section and listen to the audio through, it is quite low compared to everything else due to the large roll-off. Even if there was some slight difference in caps due to ESR I don't see how anyone could tell the difference. Except Zeus himself, perhaps!

They are reverse polarity protection and for noise reduction. However, it is safe enough to bypass them if you want. You could put a 1N5817 or 1N001 in place of the 10R resistor and jumper through Q7 if you want. Or, if you have Q7 installed already just jumper through the resistor.