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Sorry, I forgot about the part where you actually upload the corrected html file. D'oh! All is well now. You will likely need to "refresh" the page once.

The code for the Mangler, Tonebender, Rangemaster and Retrograde were not working correctly. This boards are, in fact, in stock. I have fixed the code and verified they are working now.

I think I know what it is - I'm using an old Road Rage board on my testing rig that's got an LM78L15 on it. Under load the PB is pulling down to 13.5v so obviously it is taxing the regulator. I'll try replacing that and see what happens. I've got a benchtop power supply I can use for comparison, too.

It could just be something screwy with my particular build (which would be weird because it is working perfectly). There is no difference in the LFO's once the resistor mistake is corrected. I've got an older build I can use to compare...I'll look into it soon.

Well, I'm excited to see that. I'll be getting some me-self for sure!

[The correction is very easy to make, however. Jumper R29 and then solder the 10k resistor between pins 5 and 4 of IC4 on the bottom of the PCB.]

Time to eat my hat. I boned a resistor connection on the Pork Barrel 2015. Somewhere in between updating the 2011 board to my 2014 library and modifying the layout I connected R29 to the wrong spot. It should be connected to ground, and the trace should be routed to pin 2 of IC4.

The correction is very easy to make, however. Jumper R29 and then solder the 10k resistor between pins 5 and 4 of IC4 on the bottom of the PCB.

I have updated the project doc with the explanation and a pic of how to make the correction. My apologies for the mistake. Also, I have added in the voltage measurements for the ICs in the doc. These were done for an MN3007 after calibrating the bias trim so it should be a good target for all the variations you can build.

Lastly, while I had it on the bench I tried running my MN3007 at 15v. I was surprised to find that the LFO actually does not work properly at this voltage. It looks like it needs to be tweaked. While I do not have time today to figure that out I will look into and post my findings as I think this is an important feature to have.

Direct link to the updated Pork Barrel doc: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/PorkBarrel/PorkBarrel_2015.pdf

Is the bumblebee fuzz available?. I tried to order it but it does not seem to end up in my shopping cart.

Yes, I still have about a dozen. Every once in a while Paypal does some update and the html code for the order buttons stop working. So, I have reloaded the code and updated the Project Pages. The Bumblebee order button should be working now. Sorry for the confusion.

Let's do this:
Remove the wires from the PCB and jumper your BYP pads to get rid of the Tails wiring. Ideally you would also want to remove R8 and jumper C8 but that is not critical. It will still work with those in place so don't worry about it.
Take the two wires you had connected to the BYP pads and do the following - remove R18 from the PCB. Solder one wire into one of the R18 pads. Solder R18 to the other wire and then the free end of R18 back to the remaining R18 pad (keep this under the board for cleanliness).

The end result is just shifting the bypass from "soft" to "hard". Now when you hit the footswitch, the delay signal is completely removed.

I'll have that Flabulanche doc up this evening if all goes well.

Also, I will be adding in voltage readings to some of the other docs tomorrow. I'll let you guys know when that is done. I'm gonna get those in every build doc from now on since I know folks have been wanting them.

The boost is independent, for sure. Based on some user feedback it looks like it does tend to be dark in some setups. What I suggest is reducing C18 from 47uF to 10uF or 4u7. You could go as low as 1uF, but you may lose some overdrive with that.

Q5 should be biased to about 4.5v as the build doc states. There's no other bias to set as the JFET is a buffer.

I'm curious about the cut control not working. You should have a very noticeable brightening of the signal when it is fully up. Are you sure you have used 1k5 for R26 and 6n8 for C20? Maybe double check those.

Lastly, how about your J201s? Where did you get them from?

Is everything grounded properly? Are your jacks metal frame or plastic insulated. If the latter, you will need to ground the sleeves of both.

Barring that, a pic of your build will help.

Here's what I would do. Make R6 1M instead of 100k. Now set up a switch like so:

Solder a wire to one of the R6 pads on the bottom of the PCB. Solder another wire to the other R6 pad on the bottom of the PCB. At the end of one wire, solder one end of a 100k resistor. Solder the other end of the 100k resistor to the middle lug of an On/On switch. Not solder the free end of the second wire to either one of the remaining lugs on the On/On switch.

What happens here is that when the switch is off, you have a 1M pot in series with a 1M resistor. So, you have an all the range you could not get with a 1M pot. When you flip the switch, the 100k goes in parallel with the 1M resistor, which essentially reduces the combined value to about 90k. Now you have the second range of the Rez pot. So, you cover the entire range of a 2M pot with a 1M pot and a switch.

The MN3008s look good from the top. They've got the beveled edges and are not obviously stamped or anything. Pics of the bottom and pin length would help solidify (pin lengths will be longer than your typical dual or quad amps from comparisons I've seen).

But, yeah, you gotta test first hand to know for sure.

You do not need to make any changes. Using the 1N5817 is a good idea, but beyond that it's all the same thing. I showed the SPD pot wired that way because it is less wiring, but the effect of using three wires per pot or using two wires per pot and tying lugs 2&1 together is exactly the same.

So, you are all good!

Use a 1M if you cannot get the 2M. The range will be less, but it will still cover a lot.