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Voltages look good. Try jumpering pins 3 and 4 of the PT2399 together on the bottom of the PCB. This will connect the digital and analog grounds (seems to be a problem with some builds). I believe that will solve it for you.

I'm officially on the highway....

Haha.

What's happening is that the OD is traveling through the FDBK pot just a tiny bit when you have that Mix knob up. You could turn the FDBK and MIX knobs all the way down to have just OD without any bleed-through but then, of course, you have to reset them when the delay is on. This is kind of the compromise between having the two circuits combined AND have the tails switching. If you do not care about tails, you could work around it by grounding lug 3 of the FDBK or MIX pot when the delay is bypassed (using the free column of lugs on the Delay 3PDT).

A more idealized design would incorporate some kind of gate that would shut the delay line down after some period of time when it is bypassed. But, that is kinda way beyond the scope of this project.

Ordering is now available. I got half the docs done today. I will get the other half done tomorrow.

I have the boards in. Right now I am working on the documentation. I would like to get most of it done before adding them into the store, but I plan to do this by this evening. If I don't finish all the docs I will let you guys know. The boards are looking great! More colors...no greenies.

Haha. Okay, that's a new one.

Glad you, err, like it.

Possibly. The diffused LEDs will likely have a lower forward voltage and were chosen so that if the 'Dwell' signal gets too hot, the LEDs will clip and prevent the reverb brick from getting too saturated. What I suggest is socket those two LEDs and use what you have. You can always swap them out at a later time if you need to. You might not even like the DWELL pot set very high which would make it not matter in any case.

That is very strange. With no IC in there you should have some voltage on pin3 and no voltage at all on pins 1 and 2.

If you are doing regular bypass, you only need R9 and can leave R8 off.

I'm actually wondering if your C9 is leaky. We need to determine how you are getting voltage on pins 1 and 2 when there should be no DC. I'm not sure how easy it is for you to re-work the PCB, but perhaps removing C9 and testing the voltages again is a good idea. That would tell us if the cap is leaky, or perhaps there is some solder or trace bridge on that IC. Perhaps a close up pic of that area would be good, too.

Those voltages on pins 7 and 8 seems abnormally high. Any chance of a bad cap or two there?

On the dwell control - please carefully inspect that you have used the correct values for R31 and R30. Also, check ground continuity on lug 1 of the Dwell pot.

Thank you to the guys here that ordered a CFuzz. I mean, that's really outstanding and unexpected. We all really, really appreciate your support.

We are getting some traction with the pedal and it feels good.

Well that's definitely not good.
Try pulling the IC out. What voltage readings do you get on IC4?

I love that triangle knob layout on the CC. Never seen an arrangement like that before.

I ordered a couple cases a few years ago from US Plastic. Probably won't ever use them all.

If they are the right size for me, I'd be happy to buy them off you. I go through tons of them. Walmart probably thinks I'm a g/d drug dealer.

I think lowering C16 to 47n, 33n or 22n will probably do the trick. Socket that cap and experiment. I would try that before going to a C taper pot, but if you want even more control a 50kC there combined with a different value pot on C16 will even it out more.

Not speaking of Stryper...has anyone checked out the lead singer from Cinderella lately? I think his name is Tom Keefer...? Anyway, if you know that band you his vocal style was...err, unique. Apparently he blew out his esophagus and had to learn to sing differently. And, he sounds totally different now. Plus, he plays country or something.