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You would do it on IC2. I do not think you would have to put one on both chips. But, I have not tried the LED thing with more than one chip yet.

There are pins connected to the brick itself which are used to solder the brick onto the Moodring PCB. The brick goes on the underside of the PCB like the pots so it all tucks neatly into the 125B.

Did you do any sweep picking? Because you gotta do some sweep picking, brah.

Walmart - $2 = 100 bags.

Two new demos were added by Ron (performer of the first demo). He kinda rips, man.

[cloudset]https://soundcloud.com/functionfx/sets/clusterfuzz[/cloudset]

[I have some of those jacks which I am happy to send a pair to anyone who needs them to make their existing drilled enclosure work. I have maybe two of the mini switches, so not much of those to go around. If you already drilled your enclosure and would prefer to replace it and start over, PM me and I will reimburse you $10 for a new enclosure. I can do this for up to 15 people (obviously you will have to have ordered a DR2 PCB before today!)]

It was brought to my attention that the Deadringer 2 1590BB drilling template is basically a dud. I had the PCB and jacks positioned incorrectly in order to make things fit. While I had drilled the template up weeks ago until a couple of days ago I had not completed the assembly due to messing up my original PCB build. My apologies to anyone who used the template and had a problem with the fit.

I have successfully fit everything in with the template but I had to do some work-arounds which may or may not be possible for others to do.
1 - Overdrill the input/ouput jack holes to 1/2" (this will require using a locking washer on the outside of the enclosure) and use small frame jacks.
2 - Overdrill the pot/rotary switch holes by a couple of stops to move the PCB closer to the bottom of the enclosure.
3 - Use mini SPDT switches (can't remember if I suggested this already in the build doc or not).
4 - Replace C26 with a 10uF 16v tant and bend it to one side (16v is sufficient here b/c this is for the Vb rail).

Simple, right? Not. Even still, you will see where I moved my drill spot for the output jack over to the left a bit already.

I have some of those jacks which I am happy to send a pair to anyone who needs them to make their existing drilled enclosure work. I have maybe two of the mini switches, so not much of those to go around. If you already drilled your enclosure and would prefer to replace it and start over, PM me and I will reimburse you $10 for a new enclosure. I can do this for up to 15 people (obviously you will have to have ordered a DR2 PCB before today!)

In the meantime, I have replaced the drilling template with two new ones. One is side mounted jacks and one top mounted jacks. These new templates should be okay as I have moved things around to accommodate the jacks and PCB. But, I still recommend using the small frame jacks if you do the top mounted version. Regular sized SPDT should be okay for either. Alternatively, get a 1590BBTall (also called 125BB) which is the 1590BB with an extra half inch or so of height. If using the 1590BBTall, use the "side mount" template in the doc and simply reposition the drill holes for the jacks further up the enclosure wall. Should be straight-forward.

The two new drill templates have been added to the build doc: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/Deadringer2/Deadringer2.pdf

Here is a pic of my jury-rigged build.

Are there 500kA wah pots? You could reverse the action.

OR - use a 250kA pot and modify the LFO for slower speeds!

What about a Vox AC4, has a built in attenuator, fairly clean and they aren't too pricey.

I use this primarily for testing and honestly would recommend against it. I find a Champ to be much more balanced overall for doing objective listening tests. I have modified mine a bit to round it out, but it just isn't great for all dirt pedals (btw it is a great little amp on its own). It's clean threshold can actually be quite low, too, but this also relates to the speaker (I have a Blue Dog in mine now).

The newer AC4 actually has a master instead of the wattage selector, plus bass/treb controls. Really wanna get one of those (look I'm a Vox whore okay?)

Anyway - vintage Champ all the way! You can usually score a re-tubed/re-capped 70's for $350 or so.

Much admiration!

Would not try. 

Thanks!  Now, my pt2399's are locking up again like on my last pt2399 project!  Should I try hardwiring pins 3 and 4 of the pt2399 together?

Yes. It seems to be rather unpredictable, doesn't it? I think I will just tie these pins together on all future versions of PT2399 projects. It's weird, because the Rebote does not tie those pins but I do not recall hearing much of a problem with lockups. Just another peccadillo with this magnificent chip we have to use!

FWIW how I price stuff

- Look at it.
- Pick the first number that comes to my head.
- Say "That sounds right" to no one in particular.
- Profit!

Sure. Just as you said...keep the positive ends toward the voltage sources and neg. ends on those resistors.

What can it be? I know what it isn't....

I kinda always thought Devi took the approach of collecting a bunch of parts and seeing what could be made from them (a totally valid methodology, IMO). The few schematics I saw were pretty unusual.

OT: It makes me think of a fun little project we could do. Like, list 30 odd parts with or without values and challenge members here to design something with only those parts. This kinda piques my interest.

SMD Univibe in that enclosure = major DIY win. Who is with me?