Messages

Wondering about the LFO with the phaser. Is there really much use to using any wave type other than sine?

I have not decided yet if there is much use, yet. I guess that is the main sticking point. Just need to spend more time with it.

Maybe I could do a video of it showing some of the settings and people can tell me if they think it is worth the trouble.

I have built a phaser around the TAPLFO chip. I might even release it.

Pretty sure YATS.

That is pretty much the answer. Higher gain always offers opportunities for oscillation and unwanted feedback when you are cascading OD or boosts. If you want to undo it, revert back to the 100k pot on the gain control. Or, do like I have the 8Ball set up: it is a 250k pot with a 680k resistor in parallel. This gets you to an in-between point.

I have not tried that type of modulation with the zpsdx or zpdd. You might need to tie one end of the photocell to 5v rather than ground. Or, tie the photocell to the outer lugs of the delay pot.

Why not just use a plastic DC jack? They are easy to get almost everywhere.

It's pure laziness not to give some indication on schematics. I don't know why people do that.

The only way to know for sure is by analyzing the circuit and figuring out is the pot is supposed to increase or decrease resistance when it is turned clockwise. If it is increasing resistance, the two connections must go to lugs 1 and 2 of the pot. If it decreasing, then it is lugs 2 and 3 (lug 2 is the wiper in both cases). Sometimes the wiper and the remaining outside lug will be tied together, sometimes not. For example, in the case of decreasing resistance, you could have lug1 and 2 tied together. It is the same result as leaving lug1 un-tied.

Here is an easy way to connect a visual to the action: lugs 1 and 2 EXPAND resistance, lugs 2 and 3 CONTRACT resistance.

In the example shown, I can tell right away that in the trimpot on the upper schematic that lugs 2 and 3 are tied together to EXPAND resistance. This is because increasing resistance in that spot will increase output of the circuit. Conversely, on the Depth knob on the schem below, I can tell that lug 3 is tied to the 330R resistor and the wiper connects to that 1k in parallel with the LED. That's because the depth of tremolo will increase as the LED gets brighter, and the LED gets brighter when there is less resistance going to it. For the Speed and Fine pots, the rate of the LFO increases as the resistance decreases. So, those are lugs 3 and 2 that are connected.  And, so on.

It looks like the bottom of the PCB might be coming into contact with the enclosure. Do you have anything underneath it to isolate it? If not, that couldbne the cause of the problem.

Otherwise I would look for bad solder joints.

You don't want to use a metal DC jack with a metal enclosure unless it is isolated from the enclosure completely. And, the 3PRR takes a negative ground supply an converts in into a positive ground supply for your Tonebender.

Yes the 11mm should fit.

The schematic will be available when the project is released. There won't be an etchable layout for it, unfortunately.

On the Klon the resistors are on the PCB. On the Sunking I they were on the switch because I could not fit them on the PCB. But, I put them on the PCB for SK2.

What Jacob is referring to is way back on the first version of SK1, there was a mistake in the wiring diagram where one of the 68k resistors was not removed from the signal path the way it was supposed to be (I think this was 2009?). But, this was corrected in the doc later on and subsequent versions made the correction permanent.

You should not lose volume with the tone pot. In fact, when you turn it clockwise you will perceive it as louder when working correctly. This is actually more of an auditory illusion due to how our ears hear high and low frequencies.

Also, let me caution against putting a 1M resistor on the input jack as jimilee suggested. Doing so would introduce the resistor into your bypass signal which could load your bypass signal. There is already a pulldown on the circuit board so this should not be necessary.

it's only taken...four years to finally get around to this? We getting close.

What's the award for etching all of paradise?

You might etch them all if you are super motivated, but I doubt anyone could ever build them all. At least, it would take a couple of years. Shoot, I probably could offer an award for the first person to successfully build them all!

Anyway, I have a lot on my plate for the remainder of July but I will start getting these up in August. I think I will do them in piecemeal...maybe one category at a time. The build docs alone will take some 150-200 hours to write I'm estimating.