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Thanks, icecycle66, for collating!

Maybe we could further organize this information with the MBP website re-design. It would be great to have users be able to submit their OSH stuff to a database here that could be indexed and searched by users.

I love it, too. It looks like maybe $220-230 from what I saw. I would buy this...although I wouldn't mind the Hog for twice the price!

I do really love the sound of the original with the bulb tremolo. But, yeah, there will be a choice now.

I'm superhappy you are pleased with it!

On the LED I'll just be more attentive in the future and illustrate on the diagrams what the LED and mounting holes are, if any.

Sure. The actual vibe/trem part is mostly the same with just a hair of tweaks. The main difference is the QV2 will run at 9v, uses a simple OP-Amp LFO and has a couple new features: a square/sine switch and a ramp up/down switch. So, the main idea is just tweaking the LFO from the original Univibe one which I think will have a bit wider appeal.

Yes, although you will likely need to do additional modifications. The KS1 used alternative resistor values to crank up the gain a bit for the soft clipping OD. While you could use the stock values in the KS2, which are essentially the Klon values, you might get more bang for your buck using something closer to the KS1.

Fist, you will need to arrange your back to back diodes used for clipping. They need to go in parallel with C9/R11 and with a switch so that one side of the diodes can be lifted to disengage the soft clipping.

Make R11 a 1M resistor. Socket R9. Start with 2k there. Test out the range of overdrive using the soft clipping then the hard clipping. You want to minimize any oscillation you get when you start cranking up all three knobs in parallel. You will likely get this oscillation when you bring up the Tone pot when the Volume and Gain are cranked. To minimize this, increase the value of R9. Start with 4k7 and go up to 10k until you minimize or eliminate the oscillation.

Keep in mind that the KS (and Klon) is really a "two up one down" kind of overdrive. Cranking all the knobs up full is not really how to get a good sound out of it. The most useable tones and OD you get out of them are by having two knobs up some and one knob down, in different permutations. For example, the Gain and Volume up pretty high and the Tone rolled down, or the Gain down and the Tone and Volume up, etc. You get the idea.

BTW, the reason I'm going through all this detail is just to illustrate the necessity of "design balance". IOW, adding in mods sometimes can break other things so you often have to fiddle with things a bit to get the best compromise across all features.

Okay I fixed the wiring diagram and uploaded it.

Looking at your build again, it looks like you might have drilled the spot for the LED where the extra little mounting hole on the PCB is located instead of the LED location. On the drill diagram the LED is shown by the outline with the x-hairs in the middle. If I'm wrong, my apologies...kinda hard to tell.

The problems I ran into with this build were, the drilling template shows a small circle in the general vicinity of the LED, It's not the LED. It was close enough to bend the leads of the LED to work. That happened with the Kinslayer II, also. The build DOC for this mod doesn't show wiring the input sleeve to the board. This needs to be done. I thought there was a reason it wasn't shown on this mod when the others clearly show it.

That's kinda surprising on the LED because the crosshair is in the exact spot of the origin of the part. I wonder why there is an offset?

On the wiring diagram...yeah mine is a little misleading on the buffer/tb switch mode. I show the battery hookup but not the ring wiring from the jack. It should be one or the other. I'll fix it to show the correct wiring using a battery.

Well, I'll say it once more in case somebody ends up doing it:

What I'd most like to see is a 4x BL3208 project (the smaller chip), a la the EHX Memory Toy (and maybe the Carbon Copy has this as well, I can't recall). Doesn't need to be a clone of those or anything, but of all the analog delays I've played, my favorites have have four XX08 chips in them. I think that combo has the clearest (yet still warm and gritty) repeats.

I've had this very thing going for a while...tap tempo even. I just need to get my act together and finish it.

There will be more.

I don't know drug references. I only know pool. 

Looks very cool! Glad you like.

It's called "Quadrovibe" just because it sounded cool. There's no real 'quadro' about it.

Stay tuned for Quadrovibe 2 which is coming up soon.

What might be sensible is a limiter at the input, if the signal can't even get over 25mV then the BBDs wont distort, especially with a compander lending a hand too, setting the compander alone too heavy on the compression would cause issues.

Clever! Twin diodes to ground might do the trick here. I will check that out on my build. It might be preferable to a large series resistance.

The Aquaboy guide seems to scoff at the V3205, calling it the worst of the bunch and seems to prefer the shorter delay timed B3208 instead. The old Dirtbag build guide on the other hand seems to say that the difference is negligible.

Yeah, I kinda did a 180 there. Mostly because the more time I spent working through v3205 vs MN3005 on the DB and other delays I found more consistent problems with the v3205. It's passable, but not preferable. It works, and it's analog, and it is okay to use if you are willing to accept its limitations. But, it's just not an MN3005, esp. one @ 15v. Plus, with many, many hours of tweaking I have never been able to fix the odd decay the v3205 seems to have. I've been through the compander portion many times with almost every imaginable tweak and the v3205 just does not decay naturally. More to the point: even my Memory Boy from EHX gates through the compressor portion at very tiny volumes and that uses BL3208.

Anyway, the most significant change on the DB2014 is the addition of some hefty series resistors at the inputs of the two v3205 chips just before the biasing circuitry (these will be jumpered when using MN3005). The added noise of series resistance seems to cancel out some of the crap the v3205 spits out so the end result is better than before. But, I will put the same caveat on the DB2014 as the ABDLX: use MN if you got em. If you don't, do not expect a 100% representation of the classic DMM sound (but, at least a decent approximation of it).

I have been very tempted to go the opposite way and just design the next DB to be the real deal: MN3005 run at positive ground off a 24v supply. But, I don't think too many people would be happy with that decision. Maybe I could do a small run of those at some point, though. I did one of these for myself a few years ago and it is pretty awesome sounding.

Keep em coming. I'll get these posted on the website this week.

I'm a few days behind on orders which I will be catching up on today and tomorrow. My apologies to those who are waiting--I had a bout of anemia this week which makes it just about impossible to do anything. Thankfully, it is a rare thing for me but it pretty much flattens my ass while it's going on. But, the worst is over so I'll be back on top of everything ASAP.