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The Function F(x) logo means I must be part owner of thees gitr.

If you are building the buffered bypass version, yes. If you want to build it true bypass, then you should use a 3pdt.

It looks red...is that just the lighting?

What kind of lamp is that?

If it worked before boxing it, then I would look again very carefully at your wiring and also if the PCB is contacting and areas on the pots. A wayward grounding on the PCB could cause you to lose part of the signal path. Also, check at least the power and ground pins of the ICs to make sure they are getting 9v/0v.

When I lived in Austin I loved to go to

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but they don't have that here

Well, the KS is a split rail design so the bias voltage is actually 0vDC. This means you should have +9 on pin4, -9 on pin11 and 0v on the other pins. There isn't much to break on an IC other than the solder pins.

"What is the cube root of 19?"

"Hockey"

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If Mouser were a girl, I'd marry her. If Mouser were a boy I'd totally gay marry him.

You can use the 3102 as long as you don't intend to run above 9V.

Jumper as per the MN3007 and Omit D4.

Hmmm. I remember that I used a v3102 with a v3207. I don't know if I tested an MN3102 with an Mn3007 but it has also been two or three years. I think probably not. I'll have to review the datasheets/docs to see what I did.

If all else fails, we can get you an MN3101 one way or another. But, I'd like to solve this too, if possible.

The KS pushes the 274 a bit beyond its limits, but I have not had a failure yet. It seemed reasonable enough to put that in the BOM considering the 274 sounds really good in this circuit. Once you account for voltage drops across the power supply and out of the charge pump, it ends up about 1v or so over spec. But, if there does turn out to be an intermittent issue with noise and the 274 then I might need to address that in the build docs.

Yeah, the 2262's are rail to rail and are rated +/- 8v, where the Sunking is +18/-9v. 4558 may not be the best choice either if you want the true "Klon" sound since they a BJT input rather than FET like the TL072.

Also, the rotary only goes on one way. You'll see that the mounting clips are closer to one set of pins rather than being an even distance between them. So, when the pins and holes line up, you're set.

Okay, thanks. I'll look into my build to see if I can replicate the noise somehow. I'll report back.

That's right, the plastic shafts do not use a knob or rather, they are the knob.