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From what I saw of the project, it looks like he's skipping the second inverted op-amp at each delay output and going directly into the next PT2399. That's pretty smart, actually. Why go through more gain stages than you need, as long as the phase comes out the same in the end?

But, yeah, that crowd-funding thing is not my cup of tea. Actually, I cannot seeing it lasting long. Not to knock Tonepad...it's a great resource which we all have benefited from.

This is interesting. It's a web-based app hosted by Mouser that helps you select TI components for audio-based applications. It looks like it is focused on DSP development, but it might be helpful to some here.

http://www.mouser.com/TI-Design-Tools/?utm_medium=email&utm_source=may2014&utm_campaign=cm-tidesigns&utm_content=audiolm&#tabs-5

Cool! I really like EQD and that looks pretty sweet.

Take a look at the Sunking II schem. It shows to ways to increase the bass on the circuit. If you wanted to do it with a pot, I would put it where I did the "Fat" mod. Use a 50k pot to blend the large cap in parallel with the small cap. You could use different values to for more extreme results. Say 47n to 220n.

Brief derail:

You know, this thing is kind of interesting. Both sides of the filter sit at VB (on the Klon, I mean, not the Kingslayer). So, does that mean it is both feedback and feed-forward? Someone school me, please. Furthermore, why have C4 (referencing the Sunking II schem)? The Dirt pot sits at VB and so does everything else around it if you exclude C4. Why couple the two sections together with a cap? I should try it without C4, for science. Jon? I'm looking at you

First one should be okay, I think. It's a polystyrene which tend to be small enough at least in a low value like 1n8.

Second one, no. It's 630v.

If you use a different value, go with 2n or 2n2.

C10 is listed as tantalum in the spirit of the Klon, which also uses a tantalum. R13, R14 and C10 form an external feedback (or forward...whichever) path for IC1A to, what I assume, add a little more bass to the output of that section. If you isolate it with an audio probe, as I have done, you will hear a lot of lows going through it. Why he used a tantalum there I don't know, but you could use a regular electrolytic if you like. The audio level through that part is so low relative to the distortion I can't see how one could hear the difference if there is one.

The values on the Green PCB version of the Sagg Charger are the correct ones. The ones on the Gray PCB are from Martin's original trace. He later went back and re-examined it finding several incorrect values, hence the updated Green version.

Yes to both. I prefer 1w but I believe 1/2w will be okay.

That is a good question. Of course, it is directly from the TS design. But, why? Looking through the Tech. of the Tube Screamer on geofex, I don't see any mention of that resistor but I did not re-read the whole thing: http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/TStech/tsxtech.htm

My guess is that it raises the input impedance of the active tone control circuit. Keeping in mind that the output impedance of the previous gain stage is likely very small, the 10k resistors pulls it up a bit higher. It doesn't need to be very large...I doubt changing the value to 15k or 22k would offer much tonal difference, if any. Or, possibly it is to ensure that the bias voltages on both ends of the Tone pot are equal. Or even still, it is acts as a current limiter to keep the circuit load a bit smaller. I don't have a definitive answer here...just a few guesses. It will work without that resistor, but obviously there is a reason for it being there in the mind of whomever designed it.

midwayfair has a made a good point. Let's just keep it on topic of TMG and TGP...after all that is far more entertaining and only slightly more productive than arguing about religion or politics.

I think having faith, and abondoning logic and reason, do not go hand in hand. There are certainly guys on this forum that I am aware of that are very religious, and they seem pretty damn smart and reasonable to me.

I think this is very true. Having lived in the South now for half my life, I can attest to the fact that the loudest voices tend to be the least reasonable and frankly, quite stupid. I believe there are legions of religious folk who are quite open to a more progressive point of view when it comes to integrating their beliefs with contemporary society. As an atheist, most of my exposure to contemporary religious thought comes from the media and that proves to be one of the worst and most biased sources possible because it's mostly idiots being controversial for its own sake, ratings,  or to win votes. Jesus don't want you to be rich, discriminatory nor intolerant, as it were.

On topic, I'm also extremely wary of anyone who uses religion or faith as a marketing tool to sell anything. But, I also think many people of faith are keen to this even though others fall prey to it. Just my rare $.02 on the topic of religion.

Explanation is simple: C6 was used on rev.1 to eliminate DC on the Cut pot. Although the original design didn't have an scratchy type noise on the Cut pot when you turned it I thought it was better to just remove it altogether. The added 1M resistor is to provide a small discharge path for C7 just in case any voltage sat on it when the Sat switch is flipped to ground (unlikely to happen in this case though). This section is probably a little over-engineered but I thought that the couple extra parts was worth the peace of mind of no one having any possibility of a noisy Cut control or pop when the switch is engaged.

Thank you! And believe me, it is my pleasure to do so. 

I checked my voltages. With the modulation off pins 7 and 8 measure between .6-.7v, so I was wrong about it needing to be closer the the 2.5v bias voltage. So, it looks like pin7 is misbehaving on yours. Make sure that the "ring" switch is also off when checking voltages and audio probing.

If you have not already done so, I would remelt the joints around the delay chip. If you have a continuity checker, I would then check for continuity between C11 and pin 7, and the other side of C11 and ground. When audio probing, you should hear the non delay signal on pin8 and the delayed signal on pin7 (keep in mind they will sound very ratty and distorted on these pins). From there, you should maybe check continuity on C17 and pins 13 and 14.