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Keeping multiple words in-between quotes seems to help, e.g. "fuzz face".

I've been getting a few emails so here is a quick update on the orders starting from the release date last week:

99% of US orders are done and going to USPS later this morning.
About 50% of international orders are done as of now and 100% are going to USPS this evening.

So, everything should be in the mail by the end of the day. Thanks to everyone not only for the ginormous success of this release, but for being patient while I put in the hours to get the docs up and get all this stuff shipped out. It's been a terrific couple of weeks for MBP! Which means...more projects and sooner.

-- I'll spend some time catching up on the forum tonight and tomorrow.

Great stuff! I like the groove and how it breaks down with the melody over the chorus. The bass sounds FAT. Good job, mang. I wanna hear more...

I forgot to mention my other commercial ones I like but haven't used in a while: Digitech PDS1002 (I have two of them) and a real deal 4xSAD1024 DMM (that one needs a tune up). And, of course, my XP ALL which I bought from Greg here on the forum. It's pretty rad.

I bought that book a few months after I started trying to design my own PCBs. It is well written and thought out. The info is organized pretty clearly.

However, I can say by the time I got it I figured out most of the material for myself just by doing doing it over and over. I think the best way to learn is to study other people's layouts and see how they arrange things. For me, I looked at a lot of the Tonepad and GeneralGuitarGadgets layouts to try and breakdown how they were designed. There is nothing wrong with going the "book" route, but I suggest just jumping in first and try a couple simple designs. Get a feel for it. It's more fun than trying to get through a bunch of text and then applying it. Gain a little experience first, then the information will be absorbed much more easily.

The main things to remember are: have the right component library (which you do...just use mine!), know what size enclosure you are designing for, put the pots and I/O pads in sensible places (pots at the top, I/O at the bottom as one example) and group relevant portions of the circuit together. Place power sections away from the audio path when possible, keep high gain portions away from low gain, keep other noise sources isolated as much as possible (like LFOs) and make use as few jumpers as you can (if designing a single sided board).

It's tempting to just jump into designing double sided boards because it's awfully convenient to get those PCBs made cheaply. However, you will learn a HELL of a lot better if you try doing just single sided designs first. If you master that, double sided is a cakewalk...it will feel like cheating because it is so much easier.

Someday, when I have nothing but free time, I plan on putting together my own manifesto on PCB design for the website....just like all that other stuff I'm gonna do. Yeah.

Oops, that is a dumb error on my part. Thanks for the correction. I will re-up the corrected pdf.

I really like my Timeline, Mobius, and Ditto and I love my Mojovibe.

Let me interject a little here since things got a bit heated for a moment.

MBP is a business but is also more than that: it is a DIY resource. I don't feel entitled to anyone's money if they don't won't want to spend it on my products. pikervs has his own reasons for wanting to completely DIY his build and that's totally fine. He is free to use the etchable projects here for such purpose...that's why they are there

1 - I don't share my actual schematic or layout files for the products I sell. These are considered proprietary to my business. People do ask occasionally and FYI the answer is sorry, but no.
2- Many of the products I sell have an etchable layout alternative, but not all. Sometimes this is because it is a very complicated circuit and sometimes it is because I want to make money due to the work and actual $$ investment I put into an MBP product. I may still do an etchable layout for such a product at a later time, though. And remember: there are some 150 new etching layouts coming in a matter of weeks!
3 - While I have no control over what happens once a package leaves my hands I do offer to replace a lost order one time no questions asked. This is because things do indeed get lost through no ones fault but the carriers and replacing a shipment is a acceptable loss when running a business. And, I have never found an instance where any customer has abused this practice, thankfully (hey, this is a great group of people here)! Sure, it sucks on both ends because the customer has to wait and I have to eat the cost of replacement, but that is what good customer service entails.

Please, let's do our best to make pikervs welcome here...he is a new member! Thanks to everyone who has made helpful suggestions to him.

An MLCC will work fine.

I'm sure there is a reason for the two names. Non-polar is more descriptive, IMO.

Why not just build my Warhead project? It is a single sided etching Univibe PCB that goes in a 1590BB.
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=5296.0

You can easily add the optional input buffer from the Harbinger and call it a day.

BTW: I do have many Italian customers. I do not consider the Italian post to be more problematic than other European countries in the sense of lost shipments, etc. It happens once in a while but luckily it is pretty rare. FWIW.

Brian,
Thanks for these, I've been awaiting a few. 

One quick note, on the last sentence of the first page of the Sunking II, I think it should read:
"This means it is not a direct copy of the Klong, and I do NOT represent it as such."

Not that it really matters...or maybe it does.

It only matters in the sense that if you follow some of the ridiculous threads on TGP concerning the Klon, people argue until they are blue in the face over what a "Klone" is and whether or are they truly are the "Klon". I'm circumventing any bro-hah-hah that will inevitably take place once a Sunking2 build shows up on TGP by stating it is not a Klon copy...it is a Klone, which is a variation of the Klon. And, I outline the reasons for this in the doc notes. Consider it a "CYA" statement, nothing more.

Dump Docs?

Well, I'm glad you guys appreciate them. I feel like they are getting a lot better.

You can skip the BS250 if you have to. But, you should at least put a 1N4001 or even better a 1N5817 between the drain and source of the transistor. The banded end should be soldered to the source pad.

The final project doc, the Deadringer 2, has been uploaded. I will be working on orders through the night and except to ship everything tomorrow. Thanks for your patience, guys! This was quite a doozie.