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This trick works in general. If you ever have an SPDT that pops use a 1 - 10M resistor between the two outer lugs. The resistor lets a little bit of current through- not enough to effect tone usually, but enough so that the jump between states is softer.

Never jumper unless the docs tell you to. Omit means forget it exists

That is exactly correct. It will minimize popping on the switch.

I guess you could say those new caps were
( •_•)
( •_•)>⌐□-□
(⌐□_□).
exploding with toan.

Yeah, this is a big deal! Very exciting.

Totally useless trivia: Kip Thorne and Hawking had a bet on whether or not gravitational waves would ever be discovered. I think the bet was $10. Somebody gonna get paid.

Can you explain what you mean by "effective"? Do you mean your Neovibe does not produce a good vibrato in the 1st 2/3 of the speed knob, or that the speed does not change in that range?

I'm sorry to hear about your troubles. All too often this becomes an issue with small time builders. They get in over their heads, spend the money and then cannot deliver.

Here are some general tips:
Never, ever ever pre-pay unless you are willing to risk losing all your money.

Alternatively, place a small deposit as a show of good faith. The builder should also provide a good faith estimate on time to completion, with the remainder of the payment being executed then. If the builder is unable to build your pedal without being paid up front in full, that is a HUGE red flag.

If you must pre-pay, then you should stipulate that the order must be received with 45 days. This is your only recourse for disputing through Paypal.

When you get ripped off, report the individual to the Better Business Bureau. Also, contact their state attorney general and/or local police department to report the theft.

I've removed the personal correspondence from the first post. This is not to censor, but rather protect OP. There are unscrupulous people that will sue for slander and posting private communications with that individual on a public forum only serves to worsen your case. FYI.

Photoshop is more than enough for DIY pedal making, IMO. Unless you are using your artwork as a basis for some kinda CNC work, raster graphics are just fine. The bigger limitation is the resolution of your printer. If your printer is capable of 600-1200 DPI then you should have no problem using PS for graphics. For labels, I generally work at 1200DPI. For etching, usually 600DPI.

Awesome news! Might have to grab a slow loris before they're gone


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They won't be gone for quite a while. I've got enough for 5-6 months. This is going to be the new thing here at MBP. LOTS of stock.

They say different things on the prototype vs small batch pages. GKO is meant for board outline, as I understand it. But, this is already contained in at least two of the other Gerbers.

The ones I send them are GBL, GBO, GBS, GTL, GTO, GTS, and TXT.

You can check them with gerbV to verify your board outline is in there: http://sourceforge.net/projects/gerbv/

Why did you decide to take out the bright switch on the Green Bean?

It allowed for a better layout with the two remaining switches top mounted. Plus, it was just a much less effective mod than the other two, IMO. Better to stick with the most bang for your bucks.

Well, it's a good thing he did not go with his first choice..."C**kblockers Component C**tsortium"!

If you are running high gain, tone, and volume settings all at the same time this can happen. I've checked this against the Sunking/Klon and it's the same thing on my builds so it is not an issue specific to the Kingslayer. With a Tele, you really should not need to set the tone knob so high...it's going to be exceedingly bright that way (painfully so on mine).

One change I am making for the forthcoming Kingslayer/Sunking II PCBs is suggesting a 6k8 (or even 10k) in place of the 1k8 resistor in the tone section. This shifts the frequency range of the tone control down so you get a bit more cut on the low side and not so much treble boost on the high side. This also has the benefit of reducing or eliminating a lot of that squeal when you start pushing all the knobs up. It does not eliminate it completely, but at the same time, the Klon is not really an effect where you dime all the knobs anyway.

One thing I have not tested is the behavior against different charge pumps. I do remember that during the Kingslayer development I used the TC1044SCPA consistently and did not have a problem with any squealing.

The buy/sell/trade area of the forum is a good start for locating PCBs. We could have a specific thread for just notifications (my name is, my webpage is, I have such and such...)

Obviously, I don't mind people advertising their wares, so long as there is not too much overlap in our respective offerings. If someone had a "BudMunny" Big Muff project...we'll that would be problematic, haha.